https://www.ronkirn.com/sunburst-pt3 daily 0.75 2020-04-15 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177744526-ZPI97JXPD08TDZWCD8Z7/2strattute122.jpg The Neck I jumped on finishing the neck with out thinking. My wife will kindly remind ya, that’s not at all uncommon for me. So she’s all lacquered and ready for the fret leveling wet sanding and polishing. This is what she looks like before the final assault. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177744526-ZPI97JXPD08TDZWCD8Z7/2strattute122.jpg The Neck I jumped on finishing the neck with out thinking. My wife will kindly remind ya, that’s not at all uncommon for me. So she’s all lacquered and ready for the fret leveling wet sanding and polishing. This is what she looks like before the final assault. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177744405-NG9DP1MNCFWXLPPQJZCE/2strattute121.jpg The Neck I screwed up and lacquered the neck without even thinking of photographing it. Sometimes I get in a "flow" and don't think of anything else other than building. Anyhow, so she’s all lacquered and ready for the fret leveling wet sanding and polishing. This is what she looks like before the final assault... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177744793-4R94809WQ11Q809U2TMA/2strattute123.jpg The Neck https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177744946-NW1VTM1ILSEX4BIRQIMM/2strattute124.jpg The Neck First thing, I remove the lacquer build-up from the frets. The tool is a screwdriver I reshaped the tip to cradle the fret, as I scrape the soft lacquer from the fret. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177745156-HU77ZTEFQCMUTGTC6NH3/2strattute125.jpg The Neck I use the fingerboard protector to prevent the inevitable slip. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177745256-TRJ3H4S1DKU7GVX4WRO7/2strattute126.jpg The Neck Once the majority is removed, I go back gently scraping each edge of the fret. I don’t have to be NASA clean room certified here, the fret leveling, and polishing will remove the remaining residue. Some will not remove the lacquer at all, but allow the fret leveling to “clean” the fret. I do not, because I feel that allows the lacquer to remain far too high up the edge of the fret. It will eventually separate, chip, and look rather messy. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177745637-7H19P5EZ0J1HNPL805QB/2strattute127.jpg The Neck Now I want to adjust the truss rod to bring the neck to as level a state as possible. I always set the truss rod so the tension is pulling the neck to the correct setting as opposed to releasing the tension to do the same. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177745511-YOX3IDJM8BSRUPU7OVZN/2strattute128.jpg The Neck Using a straight edge, I check to see which way to go. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177745875-3JL3TFE3QIQZC5EDLX0V/2strattute129.jpg The Neck Be certain to position the straight edge down the center of the fingerboard, the radius can throw ya wayyyyyy off. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177745987-7BWNMIYWYB4BFAE2TZ4O/2strattute130.jpg The Neck And continue adjusting the truss rod until it is as level as possible. You almost certainly will not be able to get it “dead” level, that’s why we do the fret leveling. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177746133-SSSFIXI2594AA3UFFWBG/2strattute131.jpg The Neck If the last handful of frets fall away, this is not a problem. The trend today is to have the last several frets lower than the others to facilitate modern playing styles. (The tape is to hold the straight edge in place, darn near impossible to do when a camera is occupying one of my two hands.) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177746339-66NRSUOVAHKJY3A0SKUO/2strattute132.jpg The Neck Now secure the neck whatever method you choose, I run a wood screw through one of the tuner holes into the workbench after I have pressed the heel into a neck pocket and pulled it tight. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177746428-QJPE5WVS5646HNK2KTZO/2strattute133.jpg The Neck Now, I recommend taking a marker, and coloring each fret. This makes seeing what you are doing much easier, and you can fine tune your truss rod leveling. Place your leveling tool on the fingerboard and give it a shove, remove and check the marked frets. If the end frets have been scraped and the middle ones not, then tighten the truss rod a touch and repeat. Continue until the frets toward the center of the fingerboard are being “hit” too. Now re-coat all the frets with the marker, and recheck. If the majority of the frets show exposed metal from the fret leveling tool, you are ready to rock. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374182613061-332SE2DX9QG0XDQNDMHH/2strattute134.jpg The Neck Now using your fret leveling tool and begin scrubbing the frets. I use relatively short circular strokes allowing the tool to roll with the fingerboard radius. You will see the tops of the frets being exposed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177746793-WFUV7Q8P6PM1297K6MHP/2strattute135.jpg The Neck How to make a leveling tool: Use any good flat material such as Corian, plexi-glass (1/2 inch thick) or MDF, cut a strip 2” wide by 18” long. Then cut a second similar strip. Glue, screw, or whatever it to the first in a “T” configuration to make it rigid. Now check it with something of known flatness. A cast Iron table saw table is perfect, but a piece of glass on a flat surface works too. Using spray glue, 3M-77 is what I use, glue a sheet of sand paper to the flat surface. Now take the “T” shaped tool you have made, and run the working surface across the sandpaper until the entire surface has been sanded. Then glue a strip of something like 180 grit wet or dry paper to the tool and you are ready. My tool is a machined piece of steel, with 180 grit shop cloth 3M-77ed to the working edge. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177747058-6C4QCMZF33S9YM1DAH19/2strattute136.jpg The Neck This is what you are looking for. If your neck has the last several frets falling away, that is lower than the rest of the fingerboard, take your fret leveling tool, press down on and over those last few frets from about the 17th on, and level those. This will create a natural incline up to the 16th and lower. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177747115-BAB9A3XARMR9CGMJ7D84/2strattute137.jpg The Neck Once the frets are level, let’s crown ‘em. A crowning file is one tool you cannot make, ya cannot find something else and make do, you gotta go buy one, so do it. Watching the marks left by the sandpaper on the leveling tool, crown the frets. Rocking the file to allow for the radius of the board. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177747346-N0NPQRYX0VI6QOOGTU6X/2strattute138.jpg The Neck If you’re good, or crazy, I’m not sure.. you can do it like in the previous photo, risking scratching the fingerboard, or you can use a protector, as seen here. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184039603-3D30UU42QSAMFBUK30PA/2strattute139.jpg The Neck Continue on each fret until the scratches from the fret leveling tool are ALMOST gone. Just a faint hint should remain. Do all the frets the same way. They should all look like this. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184039575-AFZCESGIEUY3UKZNGZS7/2strattute140.jpg The Neck I make a habit of saving used sandpaper from about 300 grit to 500, I use it to rough polish the frets. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184039964-9JU1D9UC0HS3WW43QZH4/2strattute141.jpg The Neck I cut ‘em in to small pieces, and give each fret a good going over, watching the reflected light off the crown to see when all the tooling marks are gone. (The tape is to hold the protector down while I took the photo with the hand that would normally hold the protector… this stuff is complicated ain’t it?) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184039999-DVALLH9676E9KKM9LCEK/2strattute142.jpg The Neck Once that is done, I move on to wet sanding the neck. I use 800 grit here with mineral spirits as a wetting agent and a small, about 1 ½ inch square block. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1580223092190-BAMLM3IYQ4ONMY9H8W2I/2strattute143.jpg The Neck I begin on the face of the headstock. Wet it with your wetting agent of choice and give ‘er a go. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1580223150280-03STO0XAUGYMVUK3VG95/2strattute144.jpg The Neck As you’re wet sanding, keep checking, to see the progress. Here you can see some areas are still glossy, the sand paper hasn’t broken the glaze yet. You will want to continue, sanding the entire surface, even what does look adequately sanded. You want to bring the entire surface down to the part that has not been touched. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1580223179417-XGN6YKG5LB85FE79H4YY/2strattute145.jpg The Neck Here you see a correctly sanded surface. It is not necessary to begin with 300, then advance to 400, then 500, 600, 800, 1000, 2000, 2,000,000… grit. Once you have sanded to around 800 that’s fine. I usually start with 600, follow up with 800 and begin polishing. All the higher grits do is make polishing go a bit faster, at the expense of additional sanding, so you get to decide, more sanding, or more polishing. A finer grit paper will NOT guarantee a shinier gloss. That is accomplished with the polishing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184040840-1UXIWWVFTMRTUYNZS9UB/2strattute146.jpg The Neck Compound curves and rounded surfaces can be done by hand holding the paper. On the back of the neck, since it’s not a compound curve, I use the block again to “level” any surface ”Orange peel”. Then I’ll go over it all by hand, with 600 grit using very small circular motions, this gives the back the patina of years of playing. Once the areas of the neck that get polished are done, I give it a coat of good quality wax. That way the neck feels as smooth as any well played instrument. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1580223455461-7QZOPZC40GF0S4YZTVHI/2strattute147.jpg The Neck I hold it up in the light to see that there are no spots that have been missed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1580223415239-9MQF5PTMZH8NQO2SJQGU/2strattute148.jpg The Neck Now that the neck is all sanded, and ready to polish, I mask off the body of the neck, because I do not want that part polished. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1580223276924-CM832Y5CHOSXFTI4PJS8/2strattute149.jpg The Neck The matte surface that the sanding leaves the feel much more like a well played neck than the sprayed satin finish used by most manufacturers. Sure I could do it that way, but the satin finish is achieved by introducing additives to the lacquer... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184041525-7YBEYZDN65FPWJU3YH3G/2strattute150.jpg The Neck ... since I have made every effort to use the same lacquers used in the 50’s and 60’s I won’t be pouring additives into it. The sanding produces a vastly superior surface anyway. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1580223322374-I2X0EQ504FJQ2CLRZDXM/2strattute151.jpg The Neck Once the masking is complete, I charge the buffing wheel with polishing compound, and get to it. If using any power buffing machine, you must be aware of heat buildup. The lacquer will soften and the buffing wheel will remove it in a heart beat so a balance between speed, pressure applied and how long you work a specific area is important. This is one of those “feel” things you just gotta get in there and do to learn. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184041775-FR8C6HKYIKT18TGA2WRD/2strattute152.jpg The Neck I just stay with it, constantly checking as I go until its as glossy as can be. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184042074-X439PTMUALN39YN1KHPN/2strattute153.jpg The Neck I do the same on the heel, then re mask and do the edge of the heel. Once that’s done I begin polishing the frets, I use several methods, depending on the neck, here I’m going over each with a cleaner car wax. It’s perfect because it will polish the fret and clean any residue from the base of the fret. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184042687-S9YH9VLGVZN8GC8OCZHJ/2strattute154.jpg The Neck After the frets are polished, I’ll examine each closely and, using my scraper, remove any lacquer, that I may have missed. Then re-polish those frets. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184043180-SSY8F4RCGM1XLRBRCED0/2strattute155.jpg The Neck At this point I’ll go over the neck closely, checking the frets, the fret ends, and the fingerboard edge; everything should be baby butt smooth. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184043481-N1D1LSYGWDUU4DPKY53H/2strattute156.jpg The Neck Then I give it a good coat of a quality carnauba based wax. The neck, will now have an organic feel, almost like it’s alive. Remember the skin on Betty Lou, the cheerleader when you played High School Football. That’s the sensation ya get. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1580223533313-4FIJP6O31GMIR3O26FIL/2strattute157.jpg The Neck Next phase, assembly. The keys, nut and retainer is all that’s left. But the Sperzel keys have a 5/32 inch pin, I’ll be drilling a 7/32 hole, that doesn’t leave a lot of “wiggle” room, so accuracy is important. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184044363-KSSH79UDOHR9MWCLSPSM/2strattute158.jpg The Neck First I ream the holes to clear out the lacquer buildup, I use a rotary file so there’s no chance of it grabbing and splitting the head. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184044347-30GBEK7X1IZI87UN2S7B/2strattute159.jpg The Neck Once the holes are clear, I insert a key and give it a light tap to make an impression where the pin goes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1580223571300-2Y1XCDF20PW3CCPENEWK/2strattute160.jpg The Neck I do this in each of the 6 holes, then using an awl, mark the 1st and 6th. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184045111-D46NMVVZCBCQ8O58BVVZ/2strattute161.jpg The Neck I want to be certain all the holes are in line, remember I only have 1/64th of wiggle room. I take a straightedge and align it between the two all points. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184045877-59MMTYHH856LMA8VW3QO/2strattute162.jpg The Neck I mark each location to insure they are straight relative to each other. I then take a caliper, dividers, or any precision instrument, and mark the distance from the hole edge to the location of the pin hole. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184046289-X6CIDIHUL39TC8VKML22/2strattute163.jpg The Neck Mark each with an awl… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1580223599352-EH9HRVAKG509316JBDGL/2strattute164.jpg The Neck ..and drill away. Oh, don’t go through. This may seem a bit tedious but it gets the job done correctly. Sure Sperzel gives a cardboard template but it’s not exactly accurate. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1580223622880-D854D91ECIPHLGHVQAEC/2strattute165.jpg The Neck It’s just a matter of pressing them in the respective holes and tightening the Ferrules. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1580223694009-ESCWR2D6BWOFZXBO31HH/2strattute166.jpg The Neck Not too shabby. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184047813-TH2GTBMT8UK007YQQ6F9/2strattute167.jpg The Neck The nut slot needs to be cleared of any accumulated lacquer. I made a tool just to do this by grinding a sharp edge on the end of a file, it scrapes the lacquer from the floor and the sides quite precisely. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184048116-XN8T4FS0UE4CVO7U1LUT/2strattute168.jpg The Neck Once that’s done, I take the nut, bone in this case, and lap it on a flat surface to get the thickness down to the correct size. Care must be taken, because it’s easy to apply more pressure on one end, with the resulting nut being thicker at one end than the other. Continue until it’s a snug fit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184048391-1EW1KKDKEXL1L7FL03UB/2strattute169.jpg The Neck Once it’s seated firmly in the slot, I take a pencil and mark a rough line indicating the top of the nut. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184048671-DDOSZNDEQ4RF5UQFDQC1/2strattute170.jpg The Neck Then over to the disk sander and a preliminary shaping, including the ends. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184048933-ZPESOE77E28PVAOBPJ95/2strattute171.jpg The Neck Now it looks about like a nut should. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184049185-GEHVP0XH9CENLIAGKI2I/2strattute172.jpg The Neck Now I take a nut slotting file and rough in the 1st and 6th string slots. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184049309-XRNC9ZKWS7ELDZJG7Q09/2strattute173.jpg The Neck This is one tool I find indispensable. The location of the strings should not be exactly symmetrical, because they are different sizes, I’m betting you noticed. I use an Xacto knife with the tip of the blade ground to etch each string location. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184049520-DEW712WZA8PTSFS6LKTT/2strattute174.jpg The Neck Then I highlight the marks with a pencil’s graphite. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184049615-GVMA71I0A6J2OBNOQNKS/2strattute175.jpg The Neck And using the appropriate slot file, make a preliminary slot for each string. The nut will not be finished until I do the setup, at that time I will cut the slots to the correct depth, then remove any unnecessary height, and polish it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1580223728636-7R20RHIZTAZR44P49ABD/2strattute176.jpg The Neck I now take a piece of string, this is the Stewart MacDonald guitar string retainer placement string, only $32.50 a foot, and wrap it around the 1st and 2nd key posts and across the nut to indicate the location of those 2 respective strings. Place the retainer on the strings, and mark the location of the pilot hole for the screw. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184049960-RY6RK0F8F0K2UUWP4K2L/2strattute177.jpg The Neck Drill the pilot hole, and coat the screw in bee’s wax, a good idea for any screw you will be running into hardwood. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374247198637-9J9THDXOSJSLN94U5JV3/3continue.jpg The Neck To continue to Part 4 Pickguard & Electronics Choose: Slide show viewing or Single Page https://www.ronkirn.com/sunburst-finished daily 0.75 2020-04-13 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243626524-MP2C2JP9KTNR0KE01FYD/2strattute312.jpg Finished Guitar https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243626524-MP2C2JP9KTNR0KE01FYD/2strattute312.jpg Finished Guitar https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243626677-ULANNCDERY5K9ERJQY7D/2strattute313.jpg Finished Guitar https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243626904-57LK1ITF2A77KDPNI9RH/2strattute314.jpg Finished Guitar https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243626918-31L39TRLEKE0X7MENDVI/2strattute315.jpg Finished Guitar https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374244121106-WIZ8WJ335GKXHKR79RXH/2strattute319.jpg Finished Guitar https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374279411535-TDOM6XXEICDW6EVN3U17/2strattute320.jpg Finished Guitar https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243628334-2ZHRCX9FZGC3SWJUSA3Y/2strattute321.jpg Finished Guitar https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243628569-CPXCE2FG5D9ZRBLMPJJQ/2strattute323.jpg Finished Guitar https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243628795-L86QCU7HYTW2JZZBWK2X/2strattute324.jpg Finished Guitar https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243628837-PEC3UIROAYLOUZ3JVZH3/2strattute325.jpg Finished Guitar https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374280040480-OYC37GU5VGL2HNN8XSJ2/2strattute326.jpg Finished Guitar https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374280058455-394RBUPCMCDYVSPTOY2U/2strattute327.jpg Finished Guitar https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374279626473-R77ESR1R6N8EAI834PJR/2strattute328.jpg Finished Guitar https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374280149473-BEQC9ENRC3B3L8SJZB87/2strattute329.jpg Finished Guitar https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243629667-Y30CM607MORBVBLKDJ4G/2strattute330.jpg Finished Guitar https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243627536-328990EYBKYLJFGE24ER/2strattute318.jpg Finished Guitar https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243627231-FH6D8VILDK80IW2ERFA0/2strattute317.jpg Finished Guitar https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243627179-0VYS7L4LEJC5E3WJ6A11/2strattute316.jpg Finished Guitar One of the last things I do is play an Em scale. For some reason, if there is “Stratitus” or the pickups too close to the strings pulling the 6th into an asymmetrical wave, I can really hear it ... Perfect. Click here to return to Builds. https://www.ronkirn.com/sunburst-pt1 daily 0.75 2020-04-15 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113171079-ZVJEOSKUHWSUTZLW3TW1/2strattute01.jpg Shaping The Body A one piece Mahogany, and well dressed S. I have taken a 13 ½ inch wide section of Mahogany. Planed it to the approximate thickness, of 1 7/8 then using the panel sander to take it down to almost 1 ¾. Use the template to trace out the rough shape and bandsaw, or jig saw a basic blank. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113171079-ZVJEOSKUHWSUTZLW3TW1/2strattute01.jpg Shaping The Body A one piece Mahogany, and well dressed S. I have taken a 13 ½ inch wide section of Mahogany. Planed it to the approximate thickness, of 1 7/8 then using the panel sander to take it down to almost 1 ¾. Use the template to trace out the rough shape and bandsaw, or jig saw a basic blank. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113170900-5C44XZBXF3FJCLCHPOJG/2strattute02.jpg Shaping The Body I now mount the template firmly. No tape. I use wood screws..long ones. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113171178-NC1MKQ9V284YKPUF8TLG/2strattute03.jpg Shaping The Body Then waddle over to the router table and rout. One side of the edge only at this time. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113171388-9IR7323W40DMTJY8XYLD/2strattute04.jpg Shaping The Body The reason I only do half on one edge is I want to rout the tremolo spring cavity while the template is mounted. I will also drill the neck bolt holes too. Once that is done I am through with that template. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113171521-0S5O9ABS9CTMSYMQY85E/2strattute05.jpg Shaping The Body So first drill the bolt holes. Here’s where some err. Use a small square to be certain the table is at 90 Degrees to the drill bit. Otherwise, crooked holes and misaligned screws. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113171821-RLBW4LSVQGDZLM8GBRSO/2strattute06.jpg Shaping The Body After that or before, whatever you feel like, do the tremolo spring rout. I do it in 2 steps initially. Once it’s ¾ inch deep, remove the template. Were done with it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113172204-2R7DO92C23UPH3JU3N98/2strattute07.jpg Shaping The Body Now lets finish the spring rout. I place a block in the slot, and use a top bearing pattern tracing bit. Rout ½ of the remaining wood from the cavity. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113173150-SHS33XLK54FQ0H1WLEQ5/2strattute11.jpg Shaping The Body I indicate the approximate center of the body, because the contours of the Leo Fender years went beyond center. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113172452-ZY9LDG0H29KMT0287DKN/2strattute08.jpg Shaping The Body Then lower the bit to leave 1/8th inch remaining and rout the remainder. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113172778-C8V130A9CHNISMD8US22/2strattute09.jpg Shaping The Body So now we give the tremolo rout one more buzz to leave the 1/8th inch remaining at the top. I use an awl to indicate the location of the lower rout, so I can be certain the top template is aligned correctly when I get ready to break through the top. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113172952-TM6UZVZ5LXU6D08OFCIK/2strattute10.jpg Shaping The Body So here is where we are. This body will have a book matched Flame Maple Veneer applied, so first, I have to do the arm contour. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113173334-USM7TA06GY2P95YKDU9D/2strattute12.jpg Shaping The Body I indicate that approximate area I want to have the contour roll into the flat top. Remember, the contours are NOT compound. They are flat on one axis while rolling on the other. If you think of a large flat sanding surface, and held the body against it and rolled it only in one direction...that IS the way Fender did it in the real days. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113173488-83THVP0V5BM193LI6HVO/2strattute13.jpg Shaping The Body Now using a delicate, dainty little tool... it has a whisper little wirrr, I remove anything that doesn’t look like an S type body. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113173717-X2BFBRU7BL61UY6SDSMF/2strattute14.jpg Shaping The Body Oh, I mark the approximate place I want to stop. Taking wood off is easy, putting it back... not so much. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113173777-6KG9OO1VYY9HETTTZZNJ/2strattute15.jpg Shaping The Body So once it’s roughed out, I use my high precision contour shaping tool with 32 grit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113175178-D08R944CVKNVLTPFSO4K/2strattute16.jpg Shaping The Body Using it as indicated, it only takes a few strokes to get it close. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113174053-R1V2T6KKMJ2EMWPY4ZMG/2strattute17.jpg Shaping The Body Now take a pencil and scribble all over the area of the contour. The pencil lead will indicate any high areas that haven't been sanded yet. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113174329-7112962X7QQEPHCTXOU7/2strattute18.jpg Shaping The Body Now, continue sanding, watching the darkened areas as they disappear. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374115960935-QMQEFSHC778MDEHMA4FP/2strattute19.jpg Shaping The Body As I get close, I’ll change to a finer grade paper, about 80 grit, and continue until the darkened areas are removed, and the complete area appears evenly sanded. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113174804-N542NRR0I7SGX79TQQ2Q/2strattute20.jpg Shaping The Body Now I use a tool I store 93 million miles away. It’s the best indicator you can find. The shadows will show any areas that aren’t evenly sanded and will reveal any lumps in the continuous roll of the contour. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114408143-MQQ0F1ZLJF3QCTPPZ4AR/2strattute21.jpg Shaping The Body Once the top contour it perfect, it’s time to move on. I select two sheets of Maple Veneer and begin matching it. Book Matched lumber rarely is, so you have to work with it to get the perfect alignment. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114408253-S5385P7ABM4ILGJ7MWTU/2strattute22.jpg Shaping The Body If you use them as they are cut, they look pretty good, but upon close examination, you can see some irregularities, so let’s fix it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114408547-0RGI5EDSIV2RRQXOXGZT/2strattute23.jpg Shaping The Body Adjust the veneer until you have a good pattern to the grain, and mark where the trim must be. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374116174814-XAW2N9K75DBZ47R3HCSA/2strattute24.jpg Shaping The Body Align the veneers so the cut will fall down the lines made. I clamp it between 2 pieces of Corian with very flat smooth edges. And using the router, make the cut. This gives 2 perfectly flat edges. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114409276-CZO5ZLY7JM1ZSO37WHKP/2strattute25.jpg Shaping The Body Before gluing, recheck the grain, and recut if necessary. Remember to consider what will actually be seen, by dealing with the small area a better match can be had. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114409281-WOCIR0VOLC236U71831U/2strattute26.jpg Shaping The Body Don’t forget to mark the body’s center so you can see it once the veneer is applied. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114409539-UU17OJFD1WS6Y7TVSFLR/2strattute27.jpg Shaping The Body Mark the body's center on both ends. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114409561-UTT8SN1C8MPWTKUNKDAL/2strattute28.jpg Shaping The Body Now match the veneer’s edges and tape it into one sheet. Then rough cut the shape out of the veneer. Use scissors, X-Acto knife, whatever…. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114409830-IHEPI3GM71KPO207SSWH/2strattute29.jpg Shaping The Body And glue it all up. I use good ‘ol yellow wood worker’s glue and a small paint roller. The secret to quality veneering is good complete glue coverage. I roll it on the body first, because it won’t curl up on ya, then on the veneer. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114409852-8329TRCZEM3U82U2VYKB/2strattute30.jpg Shaping The Body Note the even application. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114409534-VX4VGD019CAU1GQIBDH8/2strattute31.jpg Shaping The Body And on the veneer. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114410325-R35UH9KKTRX0Q1LJ1A6X/2strattute32.jpg Shaping The Body Now smack ‘em together aligning the center seam with the center marks on the body. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114410310-PFZMGRQU2LBYM3FROF8J/2strattute33.jpg Shaping The Body Now even consistent pressure is necessary. You can use vacuum presses, plastic bags and a vacuum cleaner… or clamps…. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114410666-7KIV54LQX4BN4PIHVG5B/2strattute34.jpg Shaping The Body My choice, apply a couple of pads I cut from “Non Slip” work table pads. You will notice the “block” I have made to take up the void left by the curve of the contour. To make it, I took a body, put down a sheet of plastic and filled it in with Auto Body Putty, let it harden and shaped it so the top would be flat with the pads. The pads are about ½" thick so they take up any inaccuracy as the filler block is used with other bodies. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114410643-H5FZ48HARQPZLN08U5Q8/2strattute35.jpg Shaping The Body I now put a top plate on the sandwich, this is Masonite. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114410993-TNUB7O753YK4F4LXUIS3/2strattute36.jpg Shaping The Body And begin clamping. As you are clamping check and re-check to be certain the center doesn’t drift off center. Wet glue is slippery. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114410994-6RCEEYNDYCKIFXTL6UI4/2strattute37.jpg Shaping The Body Only a few clamps are necessary... Then let it sit overnight. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114410893-4GQ3S6FHBI1RLDBLWK68/2strattute38.jpg Shaping The Body It’s pretty ugly at this point, but take a heat gun, hair dryer, or whatever to soften the well stuck tape and remove it. The heat allows the adhesive to release without pulling fibers or worse, chunks out of the veneer. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114411443-MPTW1ZA4AJZ52R7MSP76/2strattute39.jpg Shaping The Body Now to the router table to “clean” up the edges. Note that I have taken little “bites” out of the critical areas to reduce the chance of chipping the veneer. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114411753-1YCVVEL169CRQ9MRXEV5/2strattute40.jpg Shaping The Body Just be certain the router bit is set to allow for the different heights due to the forearm contour. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114411298-F8XTMIBNELCDHD2EO1MP/2strattute41.jpg Shaping The Body And we now are ready to resume shaping the body. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114412054-UD2BLXWS54P61V7F83XY/2strattute42.jpg Shaping The Body I’ll do a little preliminary sanding here just to be certain all is good, and there are no foibles that need to be addressed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114412144-HNJCYDAPAJOS59FKW9Y5/2strattute43.jpg Shaping The Body The blankets of rubber can leave their pattern on the surface of the veneer, so I’ll take a wet paper towel and Iron it. This forces the steam into the wood’s fibers causing the compressed veneer to swell. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114412299-1UPQCHFA6O49WKE3MKNR/2strattute44.jpg Shaping The Body Allow a few minutes for it to dry thoroughly, and sand lightly with a medium grit paper, 180 to 220 works fine. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114412416-LQLB278VTO1FGY421IVD/2strattute45.jpg Shaping The Body You can see how smooth it is at this stage. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114412773-G5TWELCNLNVXE5Z2ME57/2strattute46.jpg Shaping The Body Now… the other template. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114412852-AV4NJ407PO595WLD6ZUC/2strattute47.jpg Shaping The Body First thing I do is drive an awl through the tremolo cavity on both edges to indicate the location of the bottom rout. This way I can be certain the top rout will be correctly centered. It’s not impossible to be off by a 32nd or so, and while that isn’t a factor, it does drive me nuts. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114413050-DVWG082MBGJVD49ZRFO6/2strattute48.jpg Shaping The Body So now I rout the neck pocket. I do this in 2 steps, so I’m not forcing the router to take too much of a bite in one pass. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114413088-6BVRVJXYJR1KW6CXONAO/2strattute49.jpg Shaping The Body Do a little clean up, so there are no loose chips that can get snagged and rip some of the delicate edges loose. The block is a small piece of MDF ¾” square, and about 2 inches long. I make dozens and keep them handy. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374163808574-SOVOMD427VQRC0MX62KG/2strattute50.jpg Shaping The Body I now do the electronics, pickups, jack plate and tremolo routs. The tremolo is only one pass, the wood is only 1/8” thick here, so buzzzzz and it’s done. The other routs are done in 2 stages. First pass takes 3/8th out, and the second, the remaining 3/8th to give me a depth of 3/4 inch. Here you can see everything is the same depth. I have removed the template, and placed a block in the bridge pickup rout. This is so I can use the inside edge of what has already been routed, to take the electronics cavity on down to 1 1/2” deep. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374163749093-EVPCNTRXMZYKWJUAJP36/2strattute51.jpg Shaping The Body While doing the electronics cavity, do the jack hole too.. both will be 1 1/2inch deep, I Do this in 2 stages too. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114413763-LRBYXSZZ49R6TXXBZQKM/2strattute52.jpg Shaping The Body And that’s done. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114414098-OCTFAXN6UXWH6XUO87IQ/2strattute53.jpg Shaping The Body I might point out, in those shots you can really see how very little of the veneer needs to be closely matched for the book matched look. Most is covered by the Pickguard, so unless you’re going for a No PG look, don’t go crazy matching what is going to be routed away. ... Now is a good time to drill the wiring channels. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114414507-PEYQ7GUWR5Z1BYVR5TRK/2strattute54.jpg Shaping The Body Drilling the wiring channels. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114414875-EON1WSX47GOQJ0M1IRDG/2strattute55.jpg Shaping The Body Etc... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114415168-H3L30RA555F36Q5VDP6J/2strattute56.jpg Shaping The Body Just be very careful. The wood is very thin here and it’s quite easy to punch through to the back side. Also, I forgot to photograph it, but drill the relief inside the jack rout for the phone jack. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114415552-PQ7QA1KGEM7Y4FGE09Q0/2strattute57.jpg Shaping The Body Now on to the body’s round-over. While over the years there have been many different radii, ½” is the typically accepted norm for the vintage guitars. Some argue that up to 5/8th was used, but personally I feel that would have come as a result of sharpening and re-sharpening the ½” round-over bits. Each time you sharpen one, it gets a tad larger. As you go around, remember the arm contour, you must be careful not to go so far that the tracking bearing looses contact with the body. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114415874-F32534AZ171WFNRPOOXG/2strattute58.jpg Shaping The Body On the back, where the horns meet the neck pocket heel, stop short of the heel, the remaining wood gets hand shaped. This is before... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114416136-CA3WR46NNQN3YPD0U4I0/2strattute59.jpg Shaping The Body This is the highly technical tool used to shape it so it flows into the heel. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114416393-KYACGKJ2I3H6MYZQJLQ0/2strattute60.jpg Shaping The Body And this is what she looks like when completed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374168148612-3OJU0SEQB7I2JG457TJJ/2strattute61.jpg Shaping The Body For the lower horn, I use a larger diameter sanding stick (technical term). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169340234-1KBJK41HGX3V81JA426K/2strattute62.jpg Shaping The Body And completed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374168148990-KKHPN278IO1W4TZPMZUM/2strattute63.jpg Shaping The Body Now, I move on to the fun part. I mark the body to give me some idea where the round over should roll into the flat top of the body. And using a sanding block, I work down to the line. Now this may look daunting, but it’s not. It goes quite fast and produces perfect results. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374168149256-F9S3ZY0YLU56N7DZAXVB/2strattute64.jpg Shaping The Body Once the initial cut is made, I make a second…. This illustrates the 3 primary cuts made with a sanding block. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374168149551-S6MGED9IDYCDUQY99ARD/2strattute65.jpg Shaping The Body Now just continue working, this time with a little finer paper, so you have better control. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374168149819-B5VI4PNJX53CP20U4HQH/2strattute66.jpg Shaping The Body If you use the routed round over as a guide, it’s easy to see where the area you’re working on needs more attention. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374168150112-PFCJ0F3BVM5E9U11QLDK/2strattute67.jpg Shaping The Body Now step into the sunlight, and allow it to reveal any subtle irregularities. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374168150374-C2YBBC5AZE73Z9FQR9E0/2strattute68.jpg Shaping The Body In the sunlight... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169646155-49LKW89NI9T1L7BAMZRT/2strattute69.jpg Shaping The Body Now, to the back, the tummy contour. Again the same delicate little tool and the finesse necessary to remove what doesn’t look like an S body. I mark the approximate extremities of the contour and remove wood until I get close. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374168151688-KOU43YZ9Q0XHX1J9CME9/2strattute70.jpg Shaping The Body There are 2 ways to finish the contour, one is with a spindle sander. I have made a jig to hold the body at the correct angle. This is the quick easy way. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374168153407-851PQKF2XGR9GNL2D5JE/2strattute71.jpg Shaping The Body While in the jig.. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374168153674-DXXHZ2G44251YHG273LK/2strattute72.jpg Shaping The Body Or for a more “tactile” approach, make a curved sanding block and sand. Using the pencil marks to indicate the areas that still need attention, continue until it is all evenly done. Follow up with a finer grit paper and that little facet is complete. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374168154323-ENF92P9YE2OLHAAMS0MQ/2strattute73.jpg Shaping The Body Now, you can see I have already marked the reference lined for the round over, so using the rounded sanding block, repeat the same process as used on the arm contour. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374168154554-4LXK6D791DMQ1E8FKQSR/2strattute74.jpg Shaping The Body First take it down to the first mark, at about 45 degrees to the surface. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374168154801-TP856EAT0SFYZ8PW2QRD/2strattute75.jpg Shaping The Body Then follow up with a second cut at about 22 ½ degrees… on both sides of the 45 degree bevel. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374173080616-58SEFS8FAINQFVBTI4TI/2strattute76.jpg Shaping The Body And finish up by sanding with a finer grade paper to produce the round over. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374168155702-WPQNMD4XSQT40UEAA0AX/2strattute77.jpg Shaping The Body Give it a good sanding then step into the sunlight to check the progress. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169027205-PP8WIT1SPJ90O4R4QL5W/2strattute78.jpg Shaping The Body The sunlight trick may seem rather simplistic, but once you try it, you will see exactly how revealing it can be, far more than a lamp. If any irregularities are found, simply go at ‘em with a finer grade paper. The finer grade removes lumber at a much slower rate, allowing better control of what’s happening. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169027247-KO82O2FMDKO99HM7V1M2/2strattute79.jpg Shaping The Body Now a finish sanding of the whole body is in order. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169027522-JTOBBP8HMB9EUCJ624WM/2strattute80.jpg Shaping The Body Check it closely in the sunlight, you may find where a piece of wood may have been on the work table and left a calling card. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169027598-BOO158OYBFSNW5ZPUX8U/2strattute81.jpg Shaping The Body It happens. So out with the trusty Iron and a wet paper towel. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169027848-3ZD6CLEPQFRF5MAUE0LX/2strattute82.jpg Shaping The Body A quick touch with 320 grit, and it’s gone. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169028148-ZO8AAJGJ735H3NHADVT3/2strattute83.jpg Shaping The Body it’s time for the finish sanding. Before I do so, I “iron” the whole body. This causes any funky grain to raise, and much of the sand paper scores to raise, making sanding easier. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169028166-3OGSOPJEO19PHRQYDTQK/2strattute84.jpg Shaping The Body Now start sanding. I usually go at it with 220, then finish with 320. But watch closely, you want to be sure to remove any “machine” marks such as the panel sander’s footprints. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169028392-Q75W3W8KEGH8WYGW6YHN/2strattute85.jpg Shaping The Body Once you’re sure it’s all sanded, check in the sunlight again, and again, particularly if you’re doing a transparent finish. If not you could have squirted sealer a long time ago. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374247027722-4EQEG892TNPQKBY8SV6K/1continue.jpg Shaping The Body To continue to Part 2 Color and Lacquer Choose: Slide show viewing or Single Page https://www.ronkirn.com/sunburst-pt2 daily 0.75 2020-04-15 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374239172358-T518BWDYN4O8SFRQBVJ4/2strattute86.jpg Color and Lacquer It’s time for Latex world. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374239172358-T518BWDYN4O8SFRQBVJ4/2strattute86.jpg Color and Lacquer It’s time for Latex world. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374239172352-JDG358PQTEEF36W3LNJR/2strattute87.jpg Color and Lacquer I can’t stop to show the steps because this is an alcohol based dye, and dries at light speed, so there isn’t time to clean hands, find camera, focus, shoot, and resume. By that time the stuff’s dry and streaks would happen. But I stain the wood, while you can tint the lacquer (I do that too) by staining the wood first, the grain really pops out. So yellow on top, red on the mahogany on back. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374239172699-NK57IIE3FKSPFM08X89J/2strattute88.jpg Color and Lacquer The red doesn’t streak like the yellow does. This is Sherwin Williams Universal Dye, an Acid dye, we think. Don’t get it on ya. It only comes off via abrasion. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374239172718-KDLF0DQOENQ02YIZMYQG/2strattute89.jpg Color and Lacquer And the yellow side. Looks pretty darn yeller don’t it? So I take a clean paper towel, soaked with alcohol and wipe it down, a few times.. this reduces the intensity by allowing the color to be absorbed into the wood. Oh, dye vs. stain…. Dye soaks into the surface. The wood is now what ever color you dyed it. Stain lays on the top, kinda like a thin paint. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374239173028-0P7VRMB2P80K85CWD8IV/2strattute90.jpg Color and Lacquer So I wash it down a couple of times, and let it dry to analyze the shade. Then I’ll lightly sand. What this does is take away some of the “high” spots, which leaves the lower areas really intense. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374239172545-3U5CRDONY9IU8IR51MCX/2strattute91.jpg Color and Lacquer She’s now ready to get dressed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169029466-VIJLZSMEXB3YX5HR5SWN/2strattute92.jpg Color and Lacquer Allow it to dry over night to be certain all the alcohol has evaporated, then I shoot it, front and back with a few coats of a clear, very clear, sealer. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169029749-4RNNBVUU8F5X2AY01YDO/2strattute93.jpg Color and Lacquer I’ll give it a few coats, then a good sanding with 220. Maybe a few more coats, then it hangs for a few days. FYI, I rarely use grain filler. I'll apply the sealer, sand most off and recoat, and it's ready for lacquer. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169030073-H0ME18RQS2WZ3XCZ3BZP/2strattute94.jpg Color and Lacquer Ok so I have a coat of sealer on ‘er. I keep applying coats until I have a completely sealed surface. I watch the light’s reflection as I spray, watching for small points where the coat doesn’t cover minute grain irregularities. If a few show, I’ll touch them with a needle to release any trapped air while the coat is very wet. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169030605-ZCAKGKJ68H816MQ627AA/2strattute95.jpg Color and Lacquer Once I see complete coverage, I allow it to dry thoroughly. By thoroughly I mean is has to be able to “powder” when sanded. Many sealers will feel quite dry after a few hours, but try to sand it and it “loads up”. This means the particles of the finish removed are still sticky enough to bind together, leaving “globs" of finish stuck in the sandpaper. Imagine sanding old chewing gum. It just does not work. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169030531-AACGHF5VQTC9BB2UK4CZ/2strattute96.jpg Color and Lacquer After sanding.. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169030879-2IE78CTMBLDDNIEPIK8U/2strattute97.jpg Color and Lacquer And more sanding. I now give it a good sanding with 320. This is to ensure adhesion between the lacquer and the sealer. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169030881-C4PNIFJTCFNL3VL37E3K/2strattute98.jpg Color and Lacquer And it’s time to begin. First I give the whole body a coat of clear lacquer, then begin with the edge by shooting a dark coat. Being careful to direct the overspray away from the center of the body. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169031141-X2KU6UW51C3AN1KY6TIB/2strattute99.jpg Color and Lacquer I have seen many get carried away, trying to get full coverage with the first coat….not good. It’s a sure way to develop runs. Runs + Transparent colored lacquer = major problem. Take it slow and easy. Adding additional color only after the last coat has “flashed”. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169031203-OBW3XBGOZAN5LKHKRK6U/2strattute100.jpg Color and Lacquer And finally. Every few coats of color, I will give the whole surface a coat of clear. What this does is melt any overspray into the clear giving a gradual transition from the center yellow, to the dark edge. If you notice most ‘bursts have a very abrupt transition, giving them a “mechanical” appearance, the method I use makes for a very gradual flow from one shade to the next. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169081831-BNRUM7AG48K42GXCYJSQ/2strattute101.jpg Color and Lacquer Now, I’ll change color to more red. Even though the previous shots looked red, they were a very dark brown, the lights just punched through.This shade is much more red. I’m using an automotive detail spray gun, it holds about 6 ounces, in that I will put about 10 drops of red and one of brown Sherwin Williams Universal dye. And I continue with the previous technique. A thin coat of color, a coat of clear. Allow it to flash and repeat allowing the tint to gradually build up to the intensity I’m looking for. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169081801-QMDYPY1KTR0RKD4QILD5/2strattute102.jpg Color and Lacquer At this point I will begin tinting the edge of the back. I haven’t yet because I wanted to get the top’s veneer edge to closely approximate the density of the mahogany. Now I’ll give it a coat every time I do the top. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169180405-B1B0X1JPQ7V6O7X95KEC/2strattute103.jpg Color and Lacquer I also give it a coat of clear to melt the overspray into the previously applied lacquer. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169180433-ZDWUQ6LVLWA43Y3F76RJ/2strattute104.jpg Color and Lacquer And continuing with the top, working the tint looking for a specific look. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169180744-DXZZVIOZBM8RXRJ82TKK/2strattute105.jpg Color and Lacquer You may notice, the center looks a touch pink at this stage. Ain’t no biggie, don’t sweat it. It’s mainly the lights, which seems to exaggerate Red. But I continue, possibly 10 to 20 times, to get the correct intensity. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169180779-K7N56JVPNCJQDEIXGLFS/2strattute106.jpg Color and Lacquer Again, watching reflected light, to verify lacquer coverage. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177485253-R63S4BEJCWZHUSZK93NF/2strattute107.jpg Color and Lacquer And this is what she looks like at this point. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169181293-LJINTSK3D0HS7D15LWIG/2strattute108.jpg Color and Lacquer Here I have given it a coat of amber to bring the slight red hue back under control and give the whole thing a warmer appearance. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169181572-JZ4WIP7CXQIAONAGD6R9/2strattute109.jpg Color and Lacquer Make use of the reflected light. It makes applying the finish a lot easier, and as you near completing the final coats, the wetter you can apply them, the easier the wet sanding will be. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169181805-8MUCD7X419WGMEIXN7F7/2strattute110.jpg Color and Lacquer Smoother.. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177722094-NKZ4Q3TZ3TTTL2U9HZGM/2strattute111.jpg Color and Lacquer After the color is completed, I give the body about 5 good wet coats of clear... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177741729-FO01Q5V1G23OP3U2N4OO/2strattute112.jpg Color and Lacquer allowing about 20 – 40 minutes between coats. Now, I allow it to dry for a few days before giving it an interim sanding. And the last of the clear coats… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177742054-M1A8WSBBXO7AHYZAYAMV/2strattute113.jpg Color and Lacquer I’m into the boring part. Sand and squirt. I have let the body sit for a few days so the lacquer would harden enough to sand without “loading up” the paper. So, I sand… with 320.. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177742309-88CVLRLBQ34FYG7N8L9Z/2strattute114.jpg Color and Lacquer and sand... sand thoroughly. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177742646-I526OKUGH1ZEQRWAAVE6/2strattute115.jpg Color and Lacquer Then, dust and check for anything I missed. You can barely see at the edge an area that has not been touched by the sandpaper. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177742746-VJS74OHZVDYL3HYBR09Y/2strattute116.jpg Color and Lacquer And here too. While not hyper important, getting it all flat now makes the final sanding much easier. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177743141-ZLENV04H41GQPR7C1G9O/2strattute117.jpg Color and Lacquer Now simply go over any areas that need further attention, getting them all “blocked out”... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177743579-YVKAKMZV63VVQ39031FH/2strattute118.jpg Color and Lacquer ..sanding with a flat, very flat sanding block until the entire surface is evenly matte. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177743851-P016BCQHVOF272SCV8JW/2strattute119.jpg Color and Lacquer And the front. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177744139-AJV8AHID8HD2CQSICZAS/2strattute120.jpg Color and Lacquer Now, I begin spraying wet coats of lacquer. I’ll spray several, wait a while, spray a few more, until I have about 5 good coats. Then I let it dry and harden for a day, check for coverage, and if any is needed, I’ll give it a few more coats, checking the overhead lighting’s reflections to verify the coat. After which, it hangs for a few weeks. Sorry I don’t make the rules. This is the same kinda stuff Leo used 50 years ago, and he had to let ‘em hang for a few weeks too. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374247066835-M9Q7FTR8ZRMBK182LSDX/2continue.jpg Color and Lacquer To continue to Part 3 The Neck Choose: Slide show viewing or Single Page https://www.ronkirn.com/sunburst-pt6 daily 0.75 2020-04-15 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243293775-IOMU2GNYD2IBI3DKY8ML/2strattute230.jpg Finishing Touches Now I insert the neck, place the pickguard in position, then place the tremolo in the correct position. Measuring from the 12 fret, locate the first bridge 12 ¾", and that’ll be the location of the tremolo. Since the neck and pickguard are in place, I give it a good look to be certain everything looks correctly positioned. I use a 4 foot ruler to indicate the position of the strings and make any adjustments as necessary. Then mark the location of the posts for the Tremolo, here, the Wilkinson VS100. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243293775-IOMU2GNYD2IBI3DKY8ML/2strattute230.jpg Finishing Touches Now I insert the neck, place the pickguard in position, then place the tremolo in the correct position. Measuring from the 12 fret, locate the first bridge 12 ¾", and that’ll be the location of the tremolo. Since the neck and pickguard are in place, I give it a good look to be certain everything looks correctly positioned. I use a 4 foot ruler to indicate the position of the strings and make any adjustments as necessary. Then mark the location of the posts for the Tremolo, here, the Wilkinson VS100. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243293166-NWEZ80CL5AR3GO1BEOQZ/2strattute231.jpg Finishing Touches Once the location is marked, over to the drill press. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243293500-Y9Z6NMWI98NXD3DJQTZN/2strattute232.jpg Finishing Touches The studs are driven into the body. To keep from buggering up anything, I run in a stainless bolt into the threads, then I can bang away all day without harming anything. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243293719-QOHZZ0KW4K1PADGVJ90W/2strattute233.jpg Finishing Touches Then a few whacks, and it’s in. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243293977-7SBMWNABM8DE0RI4K99V/2strattute234.jpg Finishing Touches Now, holding the tremolo in position, I flip the body. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243294081-AP6WO2D7PH8QA2PFNBBC/2strattute235.jpg Finishing Touches And place the trem cover in place, outlining 2 sides with tape. We’re moving quickly here because the tape’s adhesive and the lacquer do not get along. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243294268-DMGJ9C3T4LTR4B5GOMT4/2strattute236.jpg Finishing Touches Remove the cover to see if I guessed straight. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243294361-FHS33DBZBNCA245D37SZ/2strattute237.jpg Finishing Touches I did not, so I realign the tape to the trem rout. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243294583-GRMZGMR2D674UA07XV47/2strattute238.jpg Finishing Touches Now I replace the trem cover and outline the thing with the tape. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243294661-DGN4232V9MUNCP1PAEEE/2strattute239.jpg Finishing Touches Actually before I did this, I took my tremolo cover template and routed a test in a piece of scrap whatever was close enough to grab, that way everything is ready to roll as soon as possible. Remember, the tape + lacquer don't play well together. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243294844-VK2DEQ80N1432LJCU6MT/2strattute240.jpg Finishing Touches Now I align the template to the taped outline, it is not critical, there is more than enough “wiggle room”. Ya just want it close and straight. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243295718-IQFA0RYMXWV977ER9U40/2strattute241.jpg Finishing Touches Now I take the router and give the inside edge a little bite, to check depth. Lookin’ good. So I give ‘er a complete buzz. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243295077-NPUUTIGM8A9304VKTBPB/2strattute242.jpg Finishing Touches Before removing the template, check to be certain it fits correctly. Good to go. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243295358-VXKH25IAZ56PCW5DLTEG/2strattute243.jpg Finishing Touches And here’s what she looks like now. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243295670-ZI4U6180F3J55VCA8TDC/2strattute244.jpg Finishing Touches Now, since I’m on a roll, I move on to the neck plate. I rout a test in the scrap. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243295920-0HY8CYR78NFDWG2FD4A4/2strattute245.jpg Finishing Touches Then drop the plate in to be certain it fits. Note, I leave about .003 all the way around on this and the other recessed parts to give the body a bit of room to breathe, or move with contraction and expansion. I can put ‘em in there with .000 clearance, but if the body contracts any, CRACK, the lacquer is brittle and will not give. If anyone whines about how sloppy .003 is.. c’mon, get outta here. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243295945-QEIXPSE07CHCKENKLEO6/2strattute246.jpg Finishing Touches Now I place the neck plate in position, noting the screw holes, getting it as precise as I can. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243296344-1S6CTGZRWF2T7M3B826O/2strattute247.jpg Finishing Touches Then locate the template over the plate, leaving the inside margin equidistant and clamp it in position. And yes a side note: lacquer is brittle, so when you clamp the templates, do it with only enough pressure to secure the template, if you go torque crazy here, you will be refinishing the whole body. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243296405-IHSDZXGX21LHL4RGGBBA/2strattute248.jpg Finishing Touches Now I take the router and give the body a poke, to check depth. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243296649-LHA74VWN3BX0OPZ6G28U/2strattute249.jpg Finishing Touches Rockin’ so, buzz time again. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243296723-851VWFPOO81UCX3L89HU/2strattute250.jpg Finishing Touches Drop the plate in the hole to be certain it fits. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243296921-0MX2BE6GIGC0MB9JBWVR/2strattute251.jpg Finishing Touches Here she is complete with router fuzz. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243297022-Q2PAJ14JQA2H1DI9Y9PC/2strattute252.jpg Finishing Touches And after the number has been stamped. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243297574-AWW933DHTGLD91HUEEAE/2strattute253.jpg Finishing Touches So two down, one to go. The Jack plate presents a different collection of problems. The main one, no 2 are alike, and they are not symmetrical, so what that heck, let’s roll. First, do a test, checking the depth of cut, then the over all shape. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243297292-0EI220V5357WIT48P5KS/2strattute254.jpg Finishing Touches I have sat the piece in up side down, to get a preliminary assessment, it fit, but that doesn't mean a thing when flipped over, so you must cut out the inside of the test to allow the jack and plate to fit to see if it is indeed a good cut. Since it was... (I have never had a situation where all 3 worked out perfectly on the fist cut on the same guitar. Must be good karma for ya Dave.) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243297694-O6966NQ3F4OPJVVG36Y6/2strattute255.jpg Finishing Touches Place the plate on the guitar body in the approximate location. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243297854-5VUQOPKZFES30FZWIWHR/2strattute256.jpg Finishing Touches Then place the template over it, aligning it with the plate, then clamp the template. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243297937-TNVTZMLCC1FQXU32W2QR/2strattute257.jpg Finishing Touches Be certain to use router but, that is small enough to accommodate the small radius of the point on the jack plate. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243298135-YL3EB692V9EZ0S013KKY/2strattute258.jpg Finishing Touches Now I take a little nip to check for depth. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243298179-K4FV2U35GB0RYLRKTBTB/2strattute259.jpg Finishing Touches Buzz time again. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243298932-P0UB3WOTMW5KTLPXZEWE/2strattute260.jpg Finishing Touches Then check to be certain things are in order. I figure if it’ll go in upside down, I can bang the heck out of it when right side up… NOT! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243298721-UH3EAO3TJSC40FCUUS71/2strattute261.jpg Finishing Touches Since the plate is a stamped piece of metal, I need to relieve the edges of the rout to allow for it to seat correctly. Dremel time. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243298974-EWO4Y08UO3ZGS93SXR1E/2strattute262.jpg Finishing Touches And the results. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374247365639-BGBD7I6EBEEXYMWOBDE8/6continue.jpg Finishing Touches To continue to Part 7 Final Assembly & Setup Choose: Slide show viewing or Single Page https://www.ronkirn.com/sunburst-pt4 daily 0.75 2020-04-15 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193228880-K70R7GWFJLEVPEDS326G/2strattute179.jpg Pickguard & Electronics I make my own pickguards. Those available from the many manufacturers seem to vary considerably, even from the same supplier. This way, I can only get mad at my self. I take a piece of PG material, and trace the outline from a PG template, then cut it out on the band saw. My trusty Nikon was set on the wrong setting so you will have to imagine, tortoise shell plastic, MDF template, Sharpie marker, and my stubby fingers. I’ll use golf grip tape to double stick it to the template and step over to the drill press to drill the holes. Here the access for the pickup holes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193228880-K70R7GWFJLEVPEDS326G/2strattute179.jpg Pickguard & Electronics I make my own pickguards. Those available from the many manufacturers seem to vary considerably, even from the same supplier. This way, I can only get mad at my self. I take a piece of PG material, and trace the outline from a PG template, then cut it out on the band saw. My trusty Nikon was set on the wrong setting so you will have to imagine, tortoise shell plastic, MDF template, Sharpie marker, and my stubby fingers. I’ll use golf grip tape to double stick it to the template and step over to the drill press to drill the holes. Here the access for the pickup holes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193230459-VFMJ19MG2KUF9IOWOLGH/2strattute180.jpg Pickguard & Electronics And here for all the screw holes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193230798-F6OTJHT12ZED52RY3WUW/2strattute181.jpg Pickguard & Electronics Then over to the router table to circumnavigate the periphery of the pick guard with a straight edge bit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193232294-8ZR6HLHQCQ5U54TVDII3/2strattute182.jpg Pickguard & Electronics That took about 5 minutes from plastic sheet to this. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193233828-Q8TA2NSM22GB5HDCM8L8/2strattute183.jpg Pickguard & Electronics Now changing bit to a 3/8ths, simply because it will fit inside the ½ inch hole I have drilled, I cut the pickup holes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193234245-10XYA4WR2WDNDTWC2JFB/2strattute184.jpg Pickguard & Electronics Almost a finished pickguard... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193234544-RYKW439IEZ286IBTRNC1/2strattute185.jpg Pickguard & Electronics Now I take a piece of sandpaper and go around the edge to remove any of the “fuzzies” the routing left behind, because cutting the bevel requires a very flat surface, the plastic can throw things off. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193234811-WAVKOR14WNQ2MTLV30DN/2strattute186.jpg Pickguard & Electronics Now I install a 45 degree bevel bit, and adjust it so I KNOW it’s too low, and make a test cut. Here you see the white has been exposed but very little of the black. I adjust it up just a touch, cutting and checking until I have it right. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193235345-0RWABWZN4T9DZ5BXO6KQ/2strattute188.jpg Pickguard & Electronics I’ll go around several times, this gives the bit the chance to produce a smoother cut. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193235766-AVRQ2J0ROWZ58WYU1477/2strattute189.jpg Pickguard & Electronics Perfect. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193236038-U8DSIOH88LB65ASUFDI7/2strattute190.jpg Pickguard & Electronics Since all the holes are drilled, I whip out the Dremel with a modified base to cut the switch slot. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193236331-6CLW9KAXB5I61DFU7OOA/2strattute191.jpg Pickguard & Electronics I mount the slot template in the existing switch screw holes, and lower the Dremel into the slot. The bit is a 1/16 D rasp. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193236621-MO2E1SBFRPZDASCCVVM7/2strattute192.jpg Pickguard & Electronics The results. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193238068-OZ4ACYDUQ2XNIFI5K71Z/2strattute193.jpg Pickguard & Electronics Now back to the drill press and countersink the screw holes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193238313-KOHJIUS9151KA0SGM271/2strattute194.jpg Pickguard & Electronics I check to be certain I am deep enough. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193238719-C88UHHWCOBDJWYFWM2AD/2strattute195.jpg Pickguard & Electronics And the little bugger is complete. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193239181-TH17RRESTCNPH3ESJKDI/2strattute196.jpg Pickguard & Electronics Now we wire the thing, collecting all the goodies, let’s go. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193240704-WG61CR15TYGCFFJ3Z3DF/2strattute197.jpg Pickguard & Electronics Some use plastic spacers under the pots, I do not. They can shrink over time causing the pots to come loose, I use real nuts. I know, it takes one to know one. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193242298-3UT964Z2N40N1U6YTEU2/2strattute198.jpg Pickguard & Electronics I insert the pickup adjusting/mounting screws with the rubber spacer. I use silicone tubing, it doesn’t dry rot, and isn’t affected by whatever gets to the normal tubing and causes it to deteriorate. This stuff will be around for a while. Everything is just finger tight at this point, so I can get all the holes aligned and everything installed without forcing anything. I don’t like to see wrinkled shielding because something wasn’t right. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193242594-JV31JRXMVX0MS9RLWYCO/2strattute199.jpg Pickguard & Electronics I now tap the screw holes in the pickup bobbins (camera failure again), mount them then tie the leads to keep things neat. I use linen string. Why linen, ‘cause it’s not poly, and the string looks much more tidy than the typical tape. I try to build my guitars so when the curiosity gets the better of the owner, and they open ‘er up, what they see of my attention causes a moment of respect... for the fact that it looks like it was assembled by someone that gives a hoot. And those are Curtis Novak’s Pickups, very, very, nice. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193242924-3QSWZXYGUTE1BTYAITRE/2strattute200.jpg Pickguard & Electronics Now I continue the wiring… keeping all nice and neat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193243263-UT944JBVPC406TB2O6XV/2strattute201.jpg Pickguard & Electronics I use an isolated ground through an audio grade capacitor. This dramatically reduces the hum and preserves the classic S sound. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193244798-TT8P9H3Q63BHMEBBH4SU/2strattute202.jpg Pickguard & Electronics Completed, ready for the body. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374247261338-IJF2CH6XBZL7B979TC4M/4continue.jpg Pickguard & Electronics To continue to Part 5 Body Shaping Choose: Slide show viewing or Single Page https://www.ronkirn.com/sunburst-pt5 daily 0.75 2020-04-15 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193246256-4GUSLOYNA7HJQZSNSANE/2strattute203.jpg Body Finishing The BODY!! Oh yeah! That babe should be about ready…..let’s rock. This time, I’m using a power sander on a variable speed control to do the initial “break glaze” its 500 grit being used wet with water. This tales literally about 1 minute to do both sides. I only do this to break the glaze and allow the hand sanding to gain “purchase” much quicker. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193246256-4GUSLOYNA7HJQZSNSANE/2strattute203.jpg Body Finishing The BODY!! Oh yeah! That babe should be about ready…..let’s rock. This time, I’m using a power sander on a variable speed control to do the initial “break glaze” its 500 grit being used wet with water. This tales literally about 1 minute to do both sides. I only do this to break the glaze and allow the hand sanding to gain “purchase” much quicker. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193247697-24FW43JLIXII2M86LZ9S/2strattute204.jpg Body Finishing As you can see in this shot, the surface is darn near ready for polishing... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199937037-S5XUENZ7PPLDNTEI6B4J/2strattute205.jpg Body Finishing ...but I’ll go over it by hand with 800 grit first. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199937095-TRKKHCOZ14JXXR29YXRL/2strattute206.jpg Body Finishing As you're sanding, keep stopping, allowing the surface to dry thoroughly and looking at reflected light to find any “low” spots, they will be shiny. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199937422-BBX72PHU5IRXA6C3NFPR/2strattute207.jpg Body Finishing As you’re looking for the low spots, they tend to be along the edge, they can be quickly removed by hand sanding, but doing so will result in a less than Plano-flat surface. If you continue using the block on those areas, your final gloss will be virtually mirror flat. To do concave curves, I made a slight rounded block, this one is made from Corian. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199937436-1IN505VHQSU41FUYXIW7/2strattute208.jpg Body Finishing It follows the curve much easier than trying to “make do” with whatever you can find. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199937914-O8FPWB89YMC7YSCLW4B9/2strattute209.jpg Body Finishing The results are spectacular. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199937907-1WTDRDZGCATG8QPIF6HC/2strattute210.jpg Body Finishing Now the areas where a flat block just are not appropriate, I use my good ‘ol fingers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199938245-5499C791154E98ICLRXM/2strattute211.jpg Body Finishing Once she’s all wet sanded, it’s time to choose one of many different ways to polish. For those long on elbow grease and short on bux, you can use plain old automotive cleaner car wax, it will do a super job too. Just rub the heck out of the body and you’re done. I use a little faster approach. First up is red rubbing compound. If you sanded to about 3000 grit wet or dry, you can skip this step, but this is a heck of a lot less fatiguing. This is available in a pint at your local auto parts store over by the finishing goodies, but I use it in the quart size squirt bottle. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199938899-TGTZWQLC8TV0O9317Y9K/2strattute212.jpg Body Finishing I use a very “tactile” method of distributing the compound once it leaves the bottle, it takes me back to finger painting in kindergarten. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199938511-UUYGLOBF16UJVYNXRCJP/2strattute213.jpg Body Finishing Then it's to the buffing wheel at about 700 rpm, and a gentle quick touch. This stuff will burn through faster ‘n you can say... um... "Dammmm I hate it when that happens.” You will notice the wheel shows red residue, that’s because I use a specific wheel for the specific compound, you don’t want to move to the next finer grade using the same wheel. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199938882-B4DH94AFCFQU70FVS75T/2strattute214.jpg Body Finishing In a few minutes, literally, you have a semi buffed surface. All this is doing is removing the microscopic scratches left by the wet or dry paper. Now we move up to a finer polishing compound. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199939263-8CGBYIH0EOXTE77VSGGQ/2strattute215.jpg Body Finishing The fine polishing compound is usually identified by a white color; here I'm using a compound stick, its compound suspended in a "wax" substrate. You simply "charge" the buffing wheel by holding the stick against it for a few seconds. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199939246-KEEJA7QI73SAF34VQ5VP/2strattute216.jpg Body Finishing Here you can see the difference about 10 seconds makes between the red compound, and the white. Oh, at the auto parts store, next to the cans of red compound, you will see the white. This is the finer, roughly the equivalent of the compound stick I’m using here. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199939503-5QKTAE2OPRUKYL2FH1HC/2strattute217.jpg Body Finishing Now, it’s simply a matter of buffing the entire surface. A word of caution for those venturing into this world for the first time. DO NOT buy a small polishing wheel for your Craftsman Grinder, it rotates at 3480 RPM or thereabouts and will burn the finish right off the body and take a bit of wood too, so fast you won’t believe it happened. You must use a relatively slow speed RPM to prevent learning that first unpleasant lesson. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199939632-17QPZORV0OCOQ56XKTGM/2strattute218.jpg Body Finishing After the entire body is buffed, examine it carefully, making certain it is indeed done. Then you can now choose several other methods to finalize the polishing. Simply wax the body, it’ll look darn good, or use one of the many automotive glamour waxes to give it a wet appearance. Or, as I do, I move to an extremely fine polishing compound, roughly equivalent to 10 to 20,000 grit they tell me. It’s a super fine volcanic ash suspended in something wet (that’s the technical description) but it does put down a hellava shine. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199939882-OEIWXELASJU5PNUVIYWO/2strattute219.jpg Body Finishing Again, I rely on my tactile method of application, you will notice its very wet and it only takes a few drops from the bottle. Interestingly it also smells a lot like burnt rock. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199939869-WX70A6I570SWCHNW86EK/2strattute220.jpg Body Finishing And back to the buffing wheel. Once again, I have changed to the appropriate wheel for the compound. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199940262-5TZ245F8AL32A7RQ8L1N/2strattute221.jpg Body Finishing Go all over the body once again, adding compound as necessary. And the results, is one shiny body. At this point, I’ll give the entire body a coat of a good wax. It simply adds a layer of protection as we enter the home stretch. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199940332-VTCY97JBXEMLT23OJHXP/2strattute222.jpg Body Finishing At this point, I’ll fit the neck to the pocket. As I’m making the body, I keep things tight, knowing that as I add lacquer to the neck, it will get even tighter, therefore I’ll take a small block I have made... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199940588-N8QZV6Z5WR5PT4DZ6IYT/2strattute223.jpg Body Finishing ...and remove lacquer buildup and a few thousandths from the inside edges of the neck pocket. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199940696-Q3EH9P8F0XTJW3FWA1MK/2strattute224.jpg Body Finishing I will also remove any accumulated crud from the neck pocket. Here, the lacquer buildup. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199940902-48F2B4U3VEUSW2EAGPE3/2strattute225.jpg Body Finishing This gives me a clean floor for the neck. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199941014-VMZCA4TNPQHNJ6CE3Z9O/2strattute226.jpg Body Finishing Taking the Dremel, I’ll go at the lacquer on the walls to get a secure fit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199941207-BNHGMA69N2TFCFBH8RJT/2strattute227.jpg Body Finishing And follow up by scraping any remaining funk into oblivion. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199941281-88LF3GMIIMC351H5MMW6/2strattute228.jpg Body Finishing Because I know it’s snug, I give the walls a good coat of wax, Minwax Finishing wax here, but there are plenty of other brands available. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199941475-DA47YXW3EPJSW09NQ7HO/2strattute229.jpg Body Finishing Throw in the shim, I shim all my S-types, then it’s time to get serious. For those wondering why go to al the trouble of removing all the funk if I was going to shim, well, why not?? https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374247310721-SKABZQ744KAT0AW7YWFB/5continue.jpg Body Finishing To continue to Part 6 Finishing Touches Choose: Slide show viewing or Single Page https://www.ronkirn.com/sunburst-pt7 daily 0.75 2020-04-15 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243505419-8Z8KQ9JV9GS6EU5JYYQ6/2strattute263.jpg Final Assembly & Setup So, rumor has it that the Klingons are circling, so I guess we better throw up the shield. I start with raw copper sheeting, and cut it into the necessary parts. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243505419-8Z8KQ9JV9GS6EU5JYYQ6/2strattute263.jpg Final Assembly & Setup So, rumor has it that the Klingons are circling, so I guess we better throw up the shield. I start with raw copper sheeting, and cut it into the necessary parts. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243505421-RT91ROHA08NTWQSHP7BV/2strattute264.jpg Final Assembly & Setup I use the body template to lay out the bottoms of the various routs. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243505784-6P4JMBD20A00C7YSVTF9/2strattute265.jpg Final Assembly & Setup Then cut them into the shape needed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243505812-QKQNC05GMXJ478DUAFI7/2strattute266.jpg Final Assembly & Setup Then using a special tool, one that is a trade secret, so it’s even called by a fictitious name to keep it from being commonly known, this one is called a Craftsman Deep Well ¾ inch socket… is that cool or what, who will ever figure that one out? I flatten all the copper by burnishing it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243506081-S41WZ4LYHN7T726A41KG/2strattute267.jpg Final Assembly & Setup With it all burnished flat, I take an abrasive pad and buff the collection, why? Because I know sometime in the future, curiosity will get the better of the owner, and he will pop the lid. I want him to look in there and see, this ain’t no stinking "off the rack" guitar. Or, another thought, I don’t want to ever be in the same room with something I made and have to explain something goofy. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243506319-G8DIH3LZ7DDLQ89MTQSY/2strattute268.jpg Final Assembly & Setup Now, I place the parts. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243506376-6116W9VXBBJZEJ40VGLT/2strattute269.jpg Final Assembly & Setup Then apply adhesive to the back side of the walls. This holds it in place until it’s soldered. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243506574-JUBAFGAQWKDJ5BZ2Q43P/2strattute270.jpg Final Assembly & Setup And all the other strips. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243506683-1TH5LL4S2WZDAQ6SC8F9/2strattute271.jpg Final Assembly & Setup Working around the edges, I solder at about 1 inch intervals. Be careful in the deep section, the back of the guitar and all the beautiful lacquer is only 1/8th inch away. Heat it too much and a blister raises it’s ugly head, and it’s back to refinishing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243506832-KUEI2D89X50NK7M159TY/2strattute272.jpg Final Assembly & Setup And completed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243507134-7IQ8KHGO0WILODVSYJ8Q/2strattute273.jpg Final Assembly & Setup I’ll take a moment here to coat the fresh wood in the routed areas with lacquer. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243507083-3Z3MSNJBZ0UCJII24ZIV/2strattute274.jpg Final Assembly & Setup This gives it a fighting chance if anything wet hits the guitar, If left open, the water could soak into the grain, and cause the underlying wood to swell. Not a good thing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243507359-4LBX1PW8VDW0GD2YCEW1/2strattute275.jpg Final Assembly & Setup I’m down to the little stuff, drilling pilot holes... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243507365-PCNGLE8Q581YQMZRWBWJ/2strattute276.jpg Final Assembly & Setup  ...etc. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243507642-4FJXSIVK5S1J16Q0K2IH/2strattute277.jpg Final Assembly & Setup When using a 22 fret neck on the S, the pickguard has to be in place prior to mounting the neck, fire up the old Weller. I run the ground wire through to the tremolo spring claw, and attach the jack leads. The spiral winding produces about the same effect as using a shielded wire, but the nice thing is it maintains the vintage appearance. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243507601-SOKTC32REA6XGIPOT2NL/2strattute278.jpg Final Assembly & Setup The claw requires considerable heat, a soldering pencil will not do it, the Weller Gun is about 150 watts and it barely has enough heat to overcome the “heat sink” qualities of the claw. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243507866-B11TXLY7HEDS10KR1UVW/2strattute279.jpg Final Assembly & Setup With the pickguard in place I can mount the neck. I place it in the slot, that sounds logical, then take an awl and mark the location of the screws. I will press the awl in a skewed angle to mark the neck a bit long, or away from the body, then drill the holes in that location. What that does is, as the screws are driven home, they force the neck down and into the pocket creating a very tight joint, which is paramount in an S due to the way the pressure from the strings pull the neck and body together. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243507894-PRAPF1KPTNV1RC7AMB4G/2strattute280.jpg Final Assembly & Setup I shim ‘em all with maple. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243508133-9HNCO2945PZHU8810O9B/2strattute281.jpg Final Assembly & Setup Run the screws in, and... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243508306-AUIB0JFMAN99ET0Q665O/2strattute282.jpg Final Assembly & Setup Here she is. Ready for strings. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243508612-LSRFIIO806MWWBH0Y9EU/2strattute283.jpg Final Assembly & Setup Nuthin left but to string ‘er up and do a little tweaking. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243508789-OQ57ZG2FZ184X75MSR2C/2strattute284.jpg Final Assembly & Setup On to the setup. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243508854-1NBVDVAVYIPNPB3INDIA/2strattute285.jpg Final Assembly & Setup The setup is what makes or breaks the guitar, to begin simply string ‘er up. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243509187-GDB2603C9VC6GFUMVNWO/2strattute286.jpg Final Assembly & Setup Then tune the guitar to pitch, and note the position of the tremolo here.. too high. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243509496-7DHYOIWDTV96NKTZN01W/2strattute287.jpg Final Assembly & Setup The Wilkinson Tremolo has a setscrew in the bottom of the post, used to lock it securely, improving transmission of the string vibrations into the body. You must loosen them, then lower the posts until the bridge looks about right. I check the back “lines” to be certain the body of the tremolo is parallel to the guitar’s surface. Now I check the strings height around the 20th fret to see that there is clearance to work with. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243509506-A5U0A9VL852B0S73BFPN/2strattute288.jpg Final Assembly & Setup To adjust the saddle height on the Wilk, you must release the locking screw on each saddle. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243509756-HXU244KTXQI86U4W4QES/2strattute289.jpg Final Assembly & Setup Then I can begin adjusting the string height. I generally set 1 and 6 by eye, leaving about 1/16 inch clearance at the 20th fret. Then adjust the remaining 4 in a gradual arc to follow the necks radius. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243509762-YEC25AJ1BT0HGFM5NN42/2strattute290.jpg Final Assembly & Setup Oh, I forgot, here I’m locking the tremolo stud’s setscrews in the bottom of the stud. At this point and with the strings tuned to pitch, I’ll fret the 3rd string at the 1st and 20th fret, then check around the 8th fret. There should be something like .010 inch. That’s about the thickness of a business card, indicating a very slight bow in the neck. Now I’ll sit the guitar aside for a day. Just to let it get used to the tension, the neck will want to bend a tad more, and the tremolo springs haven’t fully acclimated to the force of resistance to the string’s pull. Everything will take time to fully acclimate. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243509962-V1258BILS5EVMO9QIAAA/2strattute291.jpg Final Assembly & Setup Now that the springs are used to their new life under constant tension, I adjust ‘em to get the tremolo approximately level with the surface of the guitar. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243509995-ZJIAOV8NQ1GQUYK5KN3Q/2strattute292.jpg Final Assembly & Setup You don’t go over board, because as you tighten the spring claw, it pulls the strings to a higher pitch, when you retune, lowering the pitch, and the tension, the tremolo witch assume a new position, hopefully the correct one. It is a simple balancing act, the tension of the strings pulling against the tension exerted by the springs. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243510272-L5RQ8B3DY43OTJ1RU6D7/2strattute293.jpg Final Assembly & Setup Once the tremolo is correct, we move to the other end. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243510468-FB21VMJ71YGKOE885MKJ/2strattute294.jpg Final Assembly & Setup If you recall, as I was doing the assembly, I pre-slotted the nut with an approximate depth of slot, I now finish that aspect. I lift each string from the slot, give it a few swipes with the nut file, and reseat the string. I check each one leaving about 1/64th at the first fret under the first string and about 3/128ths under the 6th. Unplugged, I pluck each string, you will be able to hear if there is any fret buzz, or the dreaded “citar” sound. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243510532-6KTPX1AUAV34E5JUVC98/2strattute295.jpg Final Assembly & Setup Now I recheck action in the vicinity of the 15th fret, raising or lowering each saddle respectively until I detect a bit of buzz. I then raise the saddle a full turn of the setscrew in the saddle, to give slightly more than enough clearance. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243510697-OIZJ264Y4286DYTXBMFM/2strattute296.jpg Final Assembly & Setup Since I may have raised several strings, I will recheck the height at the first fret and re cut the slots as necessary. Remember the correct height at the first fret is the same as the height at the second fret when the string is fretted at the first. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374269027311-1M5CD9IZET8MF4MLMUA8/tuteblank.jpg Final Assembly & Setup Now on to the intonation. No photos, you know what picking a note, checking the tuner, and moving the saddle backward or forward looks like. But, I pluck E 1st, and tune dead on the money, then check the E at the 12th fret. If sharp or flat, I recheck the string open, then if flat I shorten the string by moving the saddle towards the neck, if sharp, I lengthen it by moving in the opposite direction. I repeat checking at the 19th fret. Except the second, at the 20th. Again moving the saddle according to the note as indicated on the tuner, Umm... chromatic tuner. I’ll let is set a few hours, come back and recheck, make whatever final adjustments, and it’s done. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243510811-MSRTR8QBPK38AJUAR0MR/2strattute297.jpg Final Assembly & Setup One thing that consistently bothers me is the junky little plastic knobs. It doesn’t matter if you bought a $300 Squire or a $3000 CS, the switch knob and tremolo handle, while slightly different in shape, are made with the same “molded mud” technology, leaving that seam from the mold the plastic was injected into. This is such a little thing, but... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243510939-E8TX2RODEJLZB2HLUM3X/2strattute298.jpg Final Assembly & Setup I take the switch knob, I do the tremolo handle the same way, but the Wilkinson doesn’t have one so you will have to imagine that part. I take the knob, and stick it on the end of a tool I made from a 16d nail. I chuck it in a drill and rotate it against pretty much the first piece of old sandpaper I can find. I do so until the casting lines are gone... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243511086-9HRZ0LZH8X8RCLLACS58/2strattute299.jpg Final Assembly & Setup Then move up to a finer sandpaper. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243511294-ETH48B6BRK66J61TWKVP/2strattute300.jpg Final Assembly & Setup Now I step over to the buffing wheel and umm…. Buff. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243511517-6CLE9L98QSJV66FRTY1C/2strattute301.jpg Final Assembly & Setup And the results looks like someone actually gave a hoot about what the subtleties looked like. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243511738-SNIKIS3PXXMLQVETUX87/2strattute302.jpg Final Assembly & Setup Now the nut is cut, but not finalized. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243511971-QC856I92TMTJ40OC1KRQ/2strattute303.jpg Final Assembly & Setup So I remove it, I haven’t glued it yet, so it’s just a matter of loosening the strings. I then take it to the sanding disk and do the final shaping. Since everyone seems to have their personal preferences as to how deep the slot should be, do yer thing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243512280-6U2H9SM6K38RJICBOLZX/2strattute304.jpg Final Assembly & Setup Then I take a piece of very fine paper, her 500 grit and run the nut’s top edge along the sandpaper to remove the course sanding marks. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243512530-L0MS1Y0DVZLV2J4C5MZN/2strattute305.jpg Final Assembly & Setup Running it laterally, will leave a very smooth surface. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243512774-WFAJKHWU3PFMK7B40P9W/2strattute306.jpg Final Assembly & Setup Now over to the buffing wheel again.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374278700685-6O0JACP6U4EPYMZSVGLW/2strattute308a.jpg Final Assembly & Setup This only takes a few seconds, and produces a bone nut that looks more like Ivory than a lot of Ivory nuts I’ve seen over the years. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243514611-ZW6JI974ANO7KN4CLCRL/2strattute308.jpg Final Assembly & Setup Now I assemble the nifty nut installation kit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243755765-QFPCQV34DFR91FHN9MNY/2strattute309.jpg Final Assembly & Setup And taking the highly specialized “applicator”, load it up with glue. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243755781-BSGMMSKXNO3JC0VMU6I0/2strattute310.jpg Final Assembly & Setup I now apply a dab of glue to each side of the nut slot, the spot is only about ¼ inch long on each side. I DO NOT apply a load of glue, you shouldn’t either. There is nothing structural here, the glue is only to keep the nut from falling out if you ever remove all the strings. And you may want to remove the little bugger one of these days. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374244070599-CNREC8TJE7QU61T2H91D/2strattute311.jpg Final Assembly & Setup Replace the strings and the pressure will seat the nut. With that, this baby’s done.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374247408405-MGJM9YYL3PC9APJLAWTQ/7continue.jpg Final Assembly & Setup To continue to Part 8 The Finished Sunburst S Type Choose: Slide show viewing or Single Page https://www.ronkirn.com/video daily 0.75 2022-08-26 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1491871346532-N0HZJHE791QM2Q8AZ4FT/image-asset.jpeg Video - Jonathan Dotson plays 'Julia Florida' by Agustin Barrios Ron Kirn's nephew, Jonathan Dotson. Classical guitar on a custom built "Esquire". www.jonathandotson.com https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1491871346532-N0HZJHE791QM2Q8AZ4FT/image-asset.jpeg Video - Jonathan Dotson plays 'Julia Florida' by Agustin Barrios Ron Kirn's nephew, Jonathan Dotson. Classical guitar on a custom built "Esquire". www.jonathandotson.com https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1571923604440-M7WQRPEDLOUO6HIFVXK7/image-asset.jpeg Video - Kirn Signature Guitars Review and Introduction https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1540920433729-EL6H8TP47B98ZTCR2460/image-asset.jpeg Video - Ron Kirn Barnbuster - Tone Demo https://static1.squarespace.com/static/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/58ec265415d5db8a63fb3276/58ec2672365ffa965ddfd5d4/1491871340141/ Video https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1491871534051-EPQ9XNKFYH58561Z1G41/image-asset.jpeg Video - Frosty the Snowman | The U.S. Army Band's 2015 American Holiday Festival at DAR Constitution Hall The United States Army Band playing Frosty The Snowman with SSG Michael G. Kramer on a Ron Kirn Signature https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1491871629818-TM06MDAYUW5YNL27I4C3/image-asset.jpeg Video - Ron Kirn S Type Tone Demonstrations of a Ron Kirn Signature Custom "S Type" Guitar https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1491871760363-MUEKS6M15KBNXF7UVRRG/image-asset.jpeg Video - Panhandle Rag https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1491871822019-8WZLZ0EZA8VQ74FKXDXU/image-asset.jpeg Video - Slow Blues Ron Kirn T Getting acquainted with my new best friend, a Ron Kirn Signature T style guitar. Doin' some slow blues through a Vovox cable and a tweed Blues Jr. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1491871871359-ZCUYLS2HMXKMMB1189RX/image-asset.jpeg Video - Ron Kirn T Style - Marshall JMD1 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1491871910236-O9ISCVBC25VHY4KYE26W/image-asset.jpeg Video - Ron Kirn T Style Thinline This Ron Kirn T Style Thinline has a Swamp Ash body, maple neck, rosewood fretboard and Lollar Pickups. Custom hand-lapped neck and genuine unmodified nitrocellulose lacquer finish. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1491871957548-EPM78HBUURRUJZGWBOPG/image-asset.jpeg Video - The Adventures of Tar Baby and Brer Rabbit-Roy Buchanan One of my favorite buchanan tunes. Trying out a Ron Kirn T style. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1491871980419-C9YJH9DPG6VX8XK3U61B/image-asset.jpeg Video - Diamond Pedals demo - Memory Lane 2, Chorus, Vibrato, Fireburst Distortion, Boost/EQ and Phaser https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1491871997081-TQ3LMON90SV5J8L2R6IO/image-asset.jpeg Video - And I Love Her The Beatles, messed up in my own sweet way. What happens if the Beatles went to the beach in Rio? More sounds from the Ron Kirn custom T style Thinline. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1491872024848-ZHVO9614GA7Y4DCQBV9Q/image-asset.jpeg Video - Feel Your Love This is a Custom Ron Kirn T style. This was made from reclaimed lumber from a Louisiana Cotton Gin that was originally built in 1850. I put Lollar Special T pickups in and wanted to check out a quick Riff. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1540920433349-XS4QY0Z2SBK9T4SU9SKJ/image-asset.jpeg Video - Ron Kirn Barnbuster - Tone Demo https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1622996399088-AQ6G17RTXD0L6TH4SZWH/image-asset.jpeg Video - Solo Jazz Guitar ♫ You Don't Know What Love Is ♫ (4K 320 Kbps) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1661535010840-17769TA0FGW90UXKZCRP/image-asset.jpeg Video - Ron Kirn Barnbuster: The Short Edit! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1661536344162-TVWIB5FU0OTFTXP6SJG7/image-asset.jpeg Video - Ron Kirn Barnbuster: The Ultimate T-Style (Made Of ≈200 YEAR OLD Pine!!) https://www.ronkirn.com/photo daily 0.75 2020-01-28 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1580221166167-2O1H245KJXS2HLPTFVR6/image-1.jpg Photo https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1580221166167-2O1H245KJXS2HLPTFVR6/image-1.jpg Photo https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1580221193872-XI0N8APF4QH325QHGXDY/image-2.jpg Photo https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1580221213653-RZA6G0DM8W8WLQTOIK1Z/image-3.jpg Photo https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1580221233910-CNTO2XQ1SEY3E3YW1JGK/image-4.jpg Photo https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1580221258369-D16P3P1G77W7K1NPVIWV/image-5.jpg Photo https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1580221281126-0RAIDJSSFUKX6DV67YE7/image.jpg Photo https://www.ronkirn.com/sitka-pt1 daily 0.75 2020-04-15 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1491943646117-NS8MX4S9M0MSQHCOTQ5F/DSC_0001a.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1491943646117-NS8MX4S9M0MSQHCOTQ5F/DSC_0001a.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013129125-5DDYA6V0A3VV3SUM1IDR/Spruce1.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body I begin with Sitka Spruce lumber cut to the appropriate length. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013129177-N6PB9A0PNO5JFHURPYWS/Spruce2.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body And check the growth rings. Note that I have marked the angle of the rings where the two pieces will be joined. I want to joint the lumber at the same angle. This dramatically reduces the appearance of the joint as seen in the end grain. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013129298-7RVT1HZIPB0VS35ZE329/Spruce3.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body I adjust the guide on the jointer to approximately the same angle as the growth rings in the Spruce, then joint both pieces. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586742255721-F8X3VJGGMOYU7FWDGKHE/Spruce5.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body A good coat of glue and good clamping technique is the simple way to a quality blank, and/or joint. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013129647-FEKCBZJBC5TH6QER5G0T/Spruce6.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Since the edges are jointed at an angle, I cannot simply clamp them as per normal because the wet glue acts as a great lubricant and the pieces will slip apart, so additional support is required to keep everything planar until the glue dries. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013129797-RTBU4SYRR3JU62RXLTBP/Spruce7.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Regarding glue, recently one of the wood working magazines did a test of the various glues available to wood workers today. The winner, hands down, was good 'ol yellow wood worker's glue, beating Gorilla Glue (polyurethane), Epoxy, CA, Formaldehyde resin, you name it, on all counts, the yeller stuff won. With the one exception of very resinous lumber like Cocobolo, for those the Poly based glues were best. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586742277851-NGAV4TLYONI3E5Z6ZUPO/Spruce8.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Now, let 'em dry. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013129514-WCQGGG56E4PBLGW5V8L0/Spruce4.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Here is the finished blank. You can see, or not see as the case may be, the joint. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013129957-K8J20UITKNUY60JRQAGR/Spruce9.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body So I have this nice 2 inch thick piece of spruce, with a Strat body lurking somewhere inside. I guess I better get to removing what doesn’t look like a Strat. I took my trusty template... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013130177-LIP03DDYOSR021OW7YRK/Spruce10.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body ...and drew the outline. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013130252-JCGBPENB77ITFOX36KE4/Spruce11.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Then I waddled over to the band saw, and band sawed it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013130468-OOWFAULVAM2VFLYW4EKG/Spruce12.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body And this is what happens. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013130553-J9DAQ08C3JQ8A9KBKIXO/Spruce13.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Now, 2 inches is a bit much, so there are several ways to bring it down to the correct thickness. A planer wide enough to take a rough at about 13 ½ inches will do nicely, or a panel sander, my choice in this case. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013130711-UIUBUS9GABSKVJU6VDEO/Spruce14.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body I just keep running it through until 1 ¾" is reached. Now it's time to get serious... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013130826-0LG8CLTHLQBHOMGN7FMP/Spruce15.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Time to mount the template. I use screws, I don’t trust double stick tape to be secure against the pressure that can be applied. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013131017-4MIIQ8N565G0V5EZUM9X/Spruce16.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013131106-X4LFO3VU9CZ998NJIOT8/Spruce17.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Adjust the Router bit, in this case in a router table, so that the bearing is making secure contact with the template and makes a clean cut. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013131252-7POO0SK1Q3MJERN0DTRP/Spruce18.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Routing around the periphery of the body is pretty straight forward. Just proceed slowly at the apex of the 4 large convex curves. Tear-out is a real possibility if you go too fast. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013131325-GZFC07K18YJFIC92ZSVB/Spruce19.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Once we have completed one pass all the way around, we direct attention to the Tremolo cutout. I do this in several passes, the first cut removes about ½ of the ¾ inch depth. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013131439-G0ORU5VMH6SF7QD8J2AO/Spruce20.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body I use a quickie block on the router to set the bit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013131502-Q68PW6CFQNESAW6W2OGM/Spruce21.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body This will remove approx 3/8 inch deep section of the cutout. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013131684-TL8L3DKO6ILXLGLGQ3HU/Spruce22.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body I now set the router depth using a second ¾ inch thick block, this will cut the tremolo cutout to the finish depth of ¾.. This is not critical, and for those detail oriented builders, here’s a tip how to achieve a true vintage appearance, make these routs as sloppy as possible. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013131835-5LB5NSV3K31N1JV2T7UG/Spruce23.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Now I take the final cut. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013131923-14X0CBT4LJ8WP1623857/Spruce24.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body To rout the deep section the tremolo block will reside in, I have a block I made to fit into the spring cavity. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013132049-5AR2GVV76WLZZSQELMVL/Spruce25.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Now, using the previously routed edged within the body as a guide, I set the router to cut about 1 ¼ deep and buzz away. You can see where I had set the bit a little too low and the collet burned the body just a touch. Not to worry, I sand the body down in the panel sander just a touch, so such machining marks will be totally removed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013132428-6A9KIRAYV6F216JHT9VW/Spruce26.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body I now adjust the router depth to cut all but 1/8 inch that will form the lip at the top of the tremolo cutout. Checking this way, I am absolutely sure there will be no unfortunate surprises when I lower the router into the hole. (I have not completed routing around the body yet, I want to complete all operations relative to the first template before I remove it.) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492021404637-6PJCWI6NAA67UKPZWLGT/Spruce27.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body But first check the drill bit to be certain it is at 90 degrees to the table. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013132984-GB95L4ZLEOQ5QSK1NXVT/Spruce28.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Then drill the neck bolt holes. Now remove the template, we’re done with it for this body. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013133239-ME4P2ZVWUHPKYMDR2IWD/Spruce29.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Now it’s time to finish routing the outside of the body. Adjust the router bit so that the bearing will ride along the previously routed part of the body, and completely remove the remaining “flange” of lumber. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013133552-W53R60QDI6BN86I4DU0G/Spruce30.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body After this, the outside shape of the body is complete. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013133686-96QYBQ0GMRC5RA8J9SHD/Spruce31.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Before we begin the top I want to mark the location of the Tremolo rout, I use two small awls to pierce the remaining 1/8th inch leaving 2 small marks on the top. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492021752912-KY4GET49BGXJCZ4QHKXU/Spruce32.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body I also position them just slightly inside the edges so the marks on the top will be completely removed by the routing process. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013133995-GOSQBLB7FAR0IXK55YBN/Spruce33.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body This allows me to position the top template in correct relationship to the rout made on the bottom, despite how the edge lines up. This will keep the neck, pickguard and Tremolo all centered relative to each other. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013134111-V2AK3CRMFJR6XHIQHOWG/Spruce34.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body So now I attach, clamp in this case, the top template checking the periphery to be certain it’s in the correct place. Then double checking other “land marks”, like the two marks made with the awls, and the neck pocket relative to the edge of the body. After positioning the template, check the neck pocket to be certain the edges line up… not like this. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013134271-4VHX4CRHOSMPR952AYR5/Spruce35.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body But like this. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492022180089-TAIVZ8PB8OT8GGGLDPXL/Spruce36.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Also check the top tremolo rout position relative to the two marks we made with the awls. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013134533-ALQR12SCCEN9LU00OJD7/Spruce37.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body And check that the neck pocket depth is correct at 3 inches. While the templates typically will match the edges of the routed body, some woods will shrink, expand, or creep around, particularly if you wait an extended period of time between operations. By checking the points mentioned above you can be sure the body’s specs will fall within the “wiggle room” built into the Strat’s dimensions. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013135118-SHMA632GMQLE7B91OIL3/Spruce38.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Just as a habit, I will mark the depth of the neck pocket at this point. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013135208-X95D86GIC5WD3PCRYDBX/Spruce39.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Now, routing the Tremolo top rout is simply a matter of setting the router bit’s depth beyond 1/8 and insuring the bearings contact the template. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013135605-K7HPJW0TN8COJBGF1LWL/Spruce40.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Once that’s done, you can proceed to the electronics/pickup routs. The finished depth should be between 5/8th (vintage) and 3/4 ‘s (more contemporary and allows for more pickup choice). I’m doing ¾ inch. I set the router to cut 3/8ths or ½ the ¾’s. First I plow away the center sections. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013135687-EUC97X6WDIU0NIJ0QSXA/Spruce41.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Then com back and finish cut the edges. I will now set the router to full depth to cut the ¾ inch. The blocks are simply a time saving device, I know the template is ¾ thick, and I want to cut ¾ beyond. So 1 ½ inch is the mark. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013135899-HUFN5SL8ZA9169G86TUT/Spruce42.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body We now have the pickup’s routs to the correct depth. I’ll do the electronics in a later step. Now to the neck pocket. I do this in two cuts too. I set the router to cut approximately ½ (not at all critical) of the depth in the first pass. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013135986-337HXBSCKTEM2OGZRF69/Spruce43.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Then set the depth to the correct depth, 5/8th in this case... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013136057-H868A6DBIKPUWNT4FHDG/Spruce44.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body and remove the remaining lumber. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013136133-H3AKTF0U0H6LM0OVQ2LS/Spruce45.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Then be sure ya haven’t screwed up. ... Now it’s time for the rest of the electronics rout and the Jack hole. The finished depth is 1 ½ inches deep, we are now at ¾, so again I’ll take half out, then the remainder. I do it this way because a top bearing pattern tracing bit of ½ inch diameter has a shaft ¼ inch diameter, and while a shaft of tool steel may seem solid enough, the forces imputed by the router are tremendous. If you try to take the whole 3/4 inch out in one pass, the probability of the shaft breaking and making a mess of your work goes up exponentially. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013136386-FVUBEE2VR8ALL5D4JLTU/Spruce46.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Now, remove the template. Using the existing walls of the electronics rout we will plunge on down. In this shot you can see the small block I made to fit into the Bridge pickup rout to provide a “wall” for the bearing support as I rout in that area. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013137006-DEO1FQU61ARKAUO32791/Spruce47.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Once it is routed half way, I use the edge of the body to set the router bit, no chance of making the fatal mistake of reading 1 ¾ as 1 ½ that way. Rout the remainder, and use the same method on the Jack cavity too. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013137178-Y00QJGPMYFXTEZTJV1WP/Spruce48.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Remove the block from the Pickup rout and we’re done. At this point I will drill a few necessary holes, the ground wire between the cavities... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013137229-7Y5UYCQWFG9IXWPY2USW/Spruce49.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body through to the spring cavity. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013137532-J9SLLVQIWDY44S6DYOXQ/Spruce50.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Now we gotta get the wires from the Jack rout to the electronics. The brass sleeve is to protect the edge of the rout. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013137658-9W4CZN7KVN5KLJP38320/Spruce51.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body On contemporary bodies, a hole is cut inside the Jack rout to allow a bit more relief for the jack’s spring contact. Without this, getting everything in correctly can be a challenge. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013137819-UP0J4AQU0ULPFKTF4AU0/Spruce52.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Now, if while drilling from the Jack rout to the electronics rout, you dented, pressed, mashed, squshed, etc, etc, the lumber, here’s an old trick. Put a few drops of water on it, press a paper towel on it, take a hot iron, and that forces steam into the first few fractions of an inch of the surface, causing the wood fibers to expand, forcing the ding back up and out. Then sand and it’s gone. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013137954-BWLRO3XXNSSM1IALSVZI/Spruce53.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body At this point it’s complete except for the contours and final sanding. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013138161-GIU9HBN3YD6UKOHEN6J7/Spruce54.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body At this point, I want to be certain, that everything aligns correctly. This is one area many neglect. Crooked things give a very “home made” appearance. Just to be sure, I set a neck in the pocket and take a straight edge and extend the to the tremolo cutout. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013138177-HU5Z5TWTOWVLWN4FJ9LM/Spruce55.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Then place the loaded pickguard and a Tremolo, and see where everything falls, if all is good, let’s get ‘er done. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013138754-KE16O0HX08KNLBS4GH0G/Spruce56.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body So now, we’re good to go, so back to the panel sander to take a few thousandths off the top and bottom to clean everything up. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013138899-VSXJ3ITXH4J9BPB2S1A9/Spruce57.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Remember the router collet being too low and burning around the Back Tremolo rout? It’s gone now. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013139020-IQ0GDSS3VK7SBTDM81T4/Spruce58.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Prior to routing the round-over, I want to sand the outside edge. Sanding? Now? Yep.. I do this now because the bearing on the ½ inch radius round over bit will follow the edge, any irregularities will be reproduced in the rounded over edge, producing even more sanding. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013139280-ZY0CKYCIY1OL577WMD4N/Spruce59.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body I use a spindle sander inside the horns, and a random orbital on the outside edges. That’s this time. I generally grab and use whatever tool is the handiest at the moment,. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013139453-V3VA70GX1BCF8P04WZCC/Spruce60.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body I’ll give the top and bottom a quick touch too. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013139505-EXPP432CZIUTWQGM1H1M/Spruce61.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Now, set the router bit, and check the cut, note here I am testing it on a section that will be removed when the back contour is cut. I set the bit to cut just a few thousandths more, the “fuzz” will be removed during sanding. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013139703-T0YBKHR62WAXZ29DANWS/Spruce62.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body When I do the round over, I do the back side inside the horns first. This is because you must stop a little short of the neck heel, and finish the round over into that section by hand. By making a habit of doing it in this fashion, I automatically think of it, thus preventing routing too far. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013139780-4QUTTHVZ6AVK9STWSRQY/Spruce63.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Once that is done, it’s simply a matter of going around the body. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013140028-Z27395RPTHPR2NVX566M/Spruce64.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body On the top side, I continue routing into the neck pocket, this produces a natural round right up to the edge of the neck pocket. At this point the body is lookin’ pretty good…. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013140105-CTTK936SY810LH3YY3FA/Spruce65.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Take a small block and sand the edges carefully, you don’t want them too thin because you’ll snap ‘em off. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013140182-R51YPGT12UED40AHBOY4/Spruce66.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body The vintage S-type had much more pronounced contours than those seen on many guitars today, the arm contour extended well below the centerline. I draw a diagonal line as a guide, https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013140441-67JSDXTNC6MPHZ2N1M54/Spruce67.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body And while I’m at it I’ll mark the back indicating the back contour. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013140508-3NVIILM2OBT3FCV3GBRN/Spruce68.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Then I mark the approximate depth of the relative cuts.. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013141164-ZE29TSP3O4MJ522ZBU0R/Spruce69.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body So now I have a problem, all this wood is in my way….so with the finesse of a stick of dynamite, I select an appropriate tool.. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013141425-BXF3K2NO1S9TYFIJ60DI/Spruce70.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body So with all that lumber in the way, I use a very aggressive grinder to rough it out, some us a band saw, but whatever method you select is fine. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013141510-MC3N2FIFF953QSM1H0KP/Spruce71.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body I simply remove the lumber to approximately the depth I’m looking for. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013141708-SFF7W343CVY22OXEISTN/Spruce72.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body One thing to note, I have seen many done where the contour is way too flat, it should have a nice round contour, on one axis, it is NOT a compound curve. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013141785-B04B0DWTHTUQXQP1MJA7/Spruce73.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Once it is about where it need to be… there are several ways to do this, the most accessible tool would be a 6 inch wide piece of flat material with some coarse sandpaper glued to it. Using this you can remove massive amounts of wood quickly. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013142044-YF385N8FTQ6FKT0SYI29/Spruce74.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Using the block, continue sanding until the contour looks pretty flat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013142190-G4OWNI3X3B3LN6GUGDNX/Spruce75.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Mark up the area with a pencil, this will allow you to see any low areas. Stopping before getting it all consistent will result in a very poor finish. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013142255-YFRUKM2J7NRR2UECS40L/Spruce76.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Now continue sanding with the flat block, observing the pencil marks. Continue until they are gone. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013142355-3UFQL6NT0X0ICT3G0N1Y/Spruce77.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Once they are gone, finish sand with your sander of choice, to about 150 grit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013142418-ILVRIJRESW7K6GIB29XE/Spruce78.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Now, I get “green” using all natural resources, I step outside and allow the sunlight to fall across the contour, the shadows will reveal any irregularities, If any are seen, resume using the flat sander until you have s smooth consistent roll. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013142494-I23LS456P3SVQDRAINQ4/Spruce79.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013142555-9LL7UGOK1T274FUU71MP/Spruce80.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013142644-M3HXC7I6U78O0T0X16H8/Spruce81.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Now, we have to round over the edge. I mark a reference line that is consistent with where the round over done with the router, flows into the top. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013142708-AIRA9WJ6I8FUETLILLJF/Spruce82.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body I then mark a second line about ½ the distance to the edge and repeat on the outside edge. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013142797-B2947NPMAXC5YI3MP49T/Spruce83.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Now using a sanding block I make the first cut keeping within the inside lines, watching to make the cut consistent around the edge. When I get close I will use a finer sand paper to give me better control on the degree of cut. Here I am just about done. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013142875-STGE9T5CNH9SS96R4QN3/Spruce84.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body And here it is pretty much complete. Sure it looks pretty rough at this point. But this is fine for the moment. If you like you can give it the sunlight treatment to address any gross irregularities. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013143047-XBRTSKXW58WRNQ9II7Q6/Spruce85.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Here she is with the sunlight falling over the edge. I will not complete the edge round over until I am doing the finish sanding prior to sealing the lumber. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013143115-F7B71Z8XCZTJALTX4MNS/Spruce86.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body On to the back contour. I marked the rough location when I was marking the top contour, again, for those looking for precision in getting this exactly right, there was no “exactly right”. It was a hand process so it was pretty much up to the shaper as he removed wood. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013143210-6QE78QKAXTOENY2U80EU/Spruce87.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Using pretty much the same method as I did on the top, I use the grinder to coarsely remove the wood down to the approximate depth. I stand there and hold the grinder firm with my elbows anchored in my sides, and rotate from the waist; this makes it much easier to keep the radius consistent. Hey first timers, practice on scrap wood a few times first. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013143309-OGYPERKSCE5HHM6XCYMP/Spruce88.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Once it’s roughed in, take a curved block, I made mine from a piece of 2x4, glue a course grit sandpaper to it, and begin sanding away…when you get close, do the pencil thing again to give you a visual reference, change to a finer grit and continue ‘till it passes the sunlight test. The mistake many make on cutting this contour, as well as the top contour, is making them compound curves, they were not. In the sunlight shot above you can see the curve is only radiused on one axis. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013143410-U8NJ9G7O91PJL898RLCA/Spruce89.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body This is a relatively labor intensive method, so if you have access to a good oscillating spindle sander, you can make ya one of these racks to hold the body in position. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013143488-OYEE3RU4THRASJ29B3RA/Spruce90.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body With the “jig” to hold the body I can move it against the spindle preserving the correct angle and keeping the floor of the contour flat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013143740-KNT2ZBR0J2LBHS88PWH2/Spruce91.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body I just continue until I have the full deep contour seen in the 50’s and 60’s. The sunlight will tell ya when to stop. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013143802-4N1I0QJKSXJMDA35CKWK/Spruce92.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Now I mark the edge as I did the top to give me an indication as I remove the hard edge and roll it into the round over. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013143888-C0LSY630AX3XNHTKS92Y/Spruce93.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Using the convex sanding block I take the edge down to the first cut, then repeat taking it to the second cut. This illustration shows the 3 primary cuts, followed up with hand sanding to smooth it up into a continuous radius. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013143980-FLD7CD5LS76YM7LVAK12/Spruce94.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Here I have just about finished the roundover on the back side. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013144154-KKHD3JVROK18XWVQSVCD/Spruce95.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Then after a bit of touchup with a finer grade of paper I give it the sunlight test to note any gross irregularities. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013144227-F3I310E4SQLGMOD2IMKO/Spruce96.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Some may be wondering how you get an acceptably consistent radius using a sanding block. It’s really quite easy. By moving the block down the edge it has a natural tendency to follow the previous line, cutting that line into “uncharted” wood. That, along with the sunlight’s shadow helps you know where the irregularities are lurking, so you can remove them. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013144978-40JBNP0MVOPDKAH5H1Z4/Spruce97.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body The last thing to remedy is where we stopped the routing before we got to the neck pocket’s heel. Using anything round with sandpaper attached, just smooth the abrupt edges into a continuous flow into the heel. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013145269-FU54DGCPIHLOSZMZH81O/Spruce98.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body I do one side, and then I do the other. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013145370-EIHAAO4ZMW44DDR37D6S/Spruce99.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Now I will go over the whole body with a bit of sandpaper, about 150 – 200 grit, giving it a good look in the sunlight, checking to ensure all is well and there are no looming foibles. The body is now complete.. all that remains is final sanding with 320, then the sealer, then the finish. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013145499-M31LXYZUSHISH37ORVZI/Spruce100.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013145643-ZDFI8X1JRHE2AA7ZGOTJ/Spruce101.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Prior to paint, I need to check all the hand shaping to be sure the curves and round-overs are smooth and liquid, not hard lines. In this shot you can see the round over is a little irregular, so I’ll go at it with a sanding block and something like 100 grit paper… carefully and gently allowing the natural weight and force of simply pushing the block to follow the lines of the body. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013146004-LCHXO35VIR22BR9WGN3I/Spruce102.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body After a few strokes you can see it is a bit more fluid. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013146062-7KUVKMIRWE2TH6KZQCWY/Spruce103.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body By “eye-ballin” down the edge you can see the round-over produced by the router, and compare it to what you are producing by hand. By rocking back and forth between the two you can see any areas in you work that need addressing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013146175-UDYPFWIXTEUURXLBWIJG/Spruce104.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body And that done by machine… you can see here the hard edge the light is making more apparent, that will be smoothed out momentarily. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013146207-9FBEH8FZ0ZVABUPU8IVR/Spruce105.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body I use the same method on the back. Just checking and sanding out what doesn’t look like a Strat. Some may wonder why I don’t use a scraper cut to the ½” radius to shape the round-overs through the contours. It’s actually easier and faster to do it this way. Further, the scrapers will only track over a section of the body’s edge only as long as the scraper is thick, this introduces entirely too many opportunities for it to hit a piece of grain and dig in. Diggin’ in… not good… not good at all. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013146482-IWFVLRSLMC1VBWD54SF8/Spruce106.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Here again, by checking the area done with the router and instantly comparing the part you are doing you will gain a good indication of what needs to be done. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013146520-B20BLTN05LTPGQOV5DF8/Spruce107.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Once the round-overs are done, go over them with 150 grit sandpaper. Giving particular attention to the edges done with the router, you want to remove the mechanical appearance the machine leaves. Here you can see the hard edge as revealed by the sunlight. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013147285-H3B17B7NX6FACTUAOTN4/Spruce108.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body And after sanding the mechanical appearance will be gone, replaced with a nice smooth flowing curve. I’m spending so much time on the importance of smoothing the body, because it’s this kind of detail that separates the “off the rack” bargain guitar from the upscale piece. You’ll be checking the next time you visit the Guitar Mart, I know hehehe. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013147503-LEZX7NVXANLMZUVY75DA/Spruce109.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Now move up to 220 grit and do a final sand, if you’re doing an opaque or semi transparent finish, and 320 if doing a completely transparent finish. Here you can see things are coming together. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013147590-ZJYVQLA2NJYV0K1EYSTJ/Spruce110.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Check all those sneaky little areas you may wanna skimp on. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013147875-3315XN6QK6EF6GRRPSUK/Spruce111.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Here you can see the round-over in the horns, how smoothly they flow into the top surface. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013147949-NXUSLPZQZX6B1TVZU5HW/Spruce112.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body The sunlight is unmerciful in revealing things that have to be addressed, here are two small “dings” I have no idea what I bumped, but let’s get rid of ‘em. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586795770308-TUGXOWSZWSSJTMZ95PZV/DSC_0025-6.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body To do this we use a highly specialized tool. And uh, DO NOT USE YOUR WIFE’S IRON. Just trust me. Go spend 15 bux and get your own iron. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013148163-5CN3ZQQX9QTKRNDHPKNL/Spruce114.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Put a few drops of secret ding removal liquid on a paper towel. Ok, ok. It’s water. Put it on the ding and iron it, oh yeah, the iron should be hot.. the hottest setting. Leave it there for a few seconds, and then remove, then let the steam dry. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013148626-RTS7XXJ2K83WMJ3GJAKQ/Spruce117.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body The steam is forced into the surface, causing the fibers to expand. This causes the compressed fibers to resume their previous position and often swell beyond. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013148178-Q9366H8624GBGXZPTK0Y/Spruce115.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body The dings now look like this, swollen from the steam and heat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013148539-VC0KBC1XDG6G7FP08RKL/Spruce116.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body While in the sun, go over the whole body, look for anything that may be helped with the steam treatment. Here you see where something, probably a chip of wood was where it didn’t belong and left it’s calling card. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013149487-WW0LR6PDHFI9RVFBV7OL/Spruce118.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body To take care of a larger surface, wet the paper towel and iron away. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013149629-RVSJ162H4IGIFH28U6YG/Spruce119.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Here you can see the swollen fibers and the scrape is gone. This works best for shallow dings where the wood’s surface isn’t broken, the resulting “repair” is absolutely invisible. If the surface is broken, it will still cause the ding to expand up and out, but the broken area will leave a “fracture” mark in the surface. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013149692-LNVLGOUT0LQTHDTWO2AS/Spruce120.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Here you see the dings removed, and ready for sanding. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013150051-VE6NP5VNSJTPVFRKSSXV/Spruce121.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Check all the surfaces for dings, and to be certain the round areas are smooth, and flowing, take care of anything that needs attention. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013150030-6NHN42VLZ31TQICO2RC1/Spruce122.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013150184-4YRVJ02SY7YEFQ97691C/Spruce123.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body In these shots, you can see how nicely the curves meet the flat areas… we’re about ready to give ‘er a squirt. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013150238-H2TDQQKLSGHSUEVNL7IA/Spruce124.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586915521739-N88TK6BT6E3I79UIZ753/Continue2.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body To continue to Part 2 Color & Lacquer Choose: Slide show viewing or Single Page https://www.ronkirn.com/sitka-pt2 daily 0.75 2020-04-15 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013474899-64T57JXQGB5VVZ5G7UEP/Spruce125.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer Now give the body a final (this will be about the last final) sanding with 220 (320 if clear finish). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013474899-64T57JXQGB5VVZ5G7UEP/Spruce125.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer Now give the body a final (this will be about the last final) sanding with 220 (320 if clear finish). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013475025-R7MZKJYPN1Y28EQCU4BU/Spruce126.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer The lumber revealed a slight coloration when it was planed down, and while it will be virtually unnoticeable under the semi transparent Honey Blonde finish, it bugs me.. so I’ll dig out the air brush. I wet it with alcohol to make it more apparent. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013475096-GI3X2N9WEHWNQ2KNWVZ6/Spruce127.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer Using a piece of scrap remaining from the blank, I’ll mix a little dye in lacquer thinner, with a very small amount of lacquer to give it a little body, then try it on the scrap. You can see it is a little too pink, so I add a toothpick tip drop of brown and try again.. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013475240-OAPJQQ9MY1GUAHXHVFGB/Spruce128.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer That’s about right. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013475281-KDPSF9RBN662BG48N0VO/Spruce129.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer Now I shield the area that is already dark, suspending it slightly above. This allows a little “blow back” to soften the edge and look much more natural. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013475412-JE06JKWF7S0IDN8P8I43/Spruce130.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013475444-5TGHYQFGB08YIGWF023O/Spruce131.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer I now mount a paint handle, keeping it above the pocket so there will be no chipping or peel off when I remove it in a couple of weeks. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013475611-W6WJAHGYCSWRTECECT4S/Spruce132.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer So it gets a few coats of sealer. Which will be thoroughly sanded before any color goes on. You can see the dark strand looks much more natural now. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013475655-O8MXUFSSKKX1NCFU1ZDI/Spruce133.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer And remember, I jointed at an angel to reduce the point where the two sections were joined? It’ll sit for a few, then it gets sanded too. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013475835-XBXYTU9K0DR864VOF5NZ/Spruce134.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer It was hot and dry, so the lacquer dried quickly. After it’s plenty hard, I sand the surface with 220 grit. I use a finish sander on the flat surfaces and I slow it down with a variable speed control. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013475885-P4C6RML74HNHOSEHG8ZC/Spruce135.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer And on the inside and outside curves, I use a specialized multipurpose tool I always have at my disposal. On an S, I prefer using my fingers for the same reason you would not want to use them on a flat area, they create a more flowing surface, not mechanically flat like you want on the larger flat surfaces. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013476045-AGEZN6JML9AZYQD6C8ZD/Spruce136.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer I now have the complete surface sanded with 220. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013476108-6HVXV8YFZD6GI66FZHPV/Spruce137.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer Here I went through the sealer, but since the stuff I use soaks into the wood slightly, it’ll be fine, but check the complete surface to be certain you haven’t missed anything. Fix it now BEFORE the color coat goes on. Fixing small dings that have gone unnoticed can be drop filled, and any visual anomaly will be covered by the color coat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013476191-FTYVCX5ICJPETN0KY73P/Spruce138.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer Now, I’ll give it a good coat of nitro, and check it in as many lighting conditions as I can to check for anything I don’t wanna see when she’s finished. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013476348-URGHV4D6PP6WZ2E0TYY1/Spruce139.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer Lookin, good, time for a bit of color. Before I begin this, please to those that have been doing this for a considerable time, I appreciate input, but I am self trained over 40 years, and I ain’t uh gonna be changing anything I do, ‘cause what I do works just fine for me. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013476381-YXBPA1KXSKPFZRJSSF23/Spruce140.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer So I start with a pot of lacquer, nice ‘n clear. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013476521-6820LURQPFTDHX1OX6OO/Spruce141.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer Then I add a stick tip full of white tint. Tint differs from dye because it is opaque, and can, if enough is used, produce a completely opaque white lacquer. I just add touch to produce something that is like watery milk. This gives me something that would be perfect for a Mary Kaye finish. But we want a Honey Blonde. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013476573-YVXS5VCPOQSQ1IY3MC4U/Spruce142.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer Now I add a toothpick tip of brown dye. Dye changes the color, but not the opacity. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586800262720-F1T055JRQHR5ZG64WT9W/DSC_0012-14.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer I keep a good selection of colors. Using this stuff is as much an art as anything else. It’s just something you have to get in there and do to get the hang of it. It’s a matter of adding the basic color, and adding other tints to get where you are going. You MUST consider the color of the base wood too, it’s going to be seen too. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013476721-FFN74XICK36UG49H4Z4C/Spruce144.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer The brown alone didn’t do it, so I add a drop of yellow. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013476896-KHUR5LJIPJ38VFANQYAN/Spruce145.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer Which wasn’t correct either, so more brown. Now it’s looking about right. I always try to keep the color lighter that what I expect because I know I can correct during the clear coat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013476907-SBJAFAI5DZET6U5IFUHC/Spruce146.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer Mix it thoroughly and put down a light mist, to check color. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013477149-3UY9MZF5PWEO16F2N8FV/Spruce147.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer Have a good look in different light to see what you have done. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013477203-PBNJ750TC255J96QBXZG/Spruce148.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer I now go for the full Monty. I put it down in several light coats, which allows me to control the density and the evenness of the coverage. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013477438-MNDBYPCE3J3AFYFB4NJ6/Spruce149.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer Since I’m putting down light mist coats, I can never get to a full wet coat which reduces the “orange peel” effect. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013477475-ROJY3P6CJ1IRQCOXU9HP/Spruce150.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer This is what I mean by the “orange peel” look… not good. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013477696-739NC6AL6YR4GJDRYG7T/Spruce151.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer In this shot you can see an area with a good wet coat, and the as yet un-coated mist section. Oh yes, after the several mist coats to achieve the correct shade, I give it a good wet coat of clear lacquer to blend everything. That’s what I’m doing in these shots.. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013477696-46NMF1PASSKPDJJG458O/Spruce152.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer Now I have a full wet coat. What I mean by wet coat is I continue laying down thin coats until I know one more and it’ll run… that’s a “feel” thing it just takes time and practice. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013477933-ILRY6VVFT4SHULHHLJ1Z/Spruce153.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer By mastering the wet coat thing, you can dramatically reduce the amount of wet sanding you will need to do. Learn to look through the finish at reflected light to get a good idea of the quality of the coat you’re putting down. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013477943-FKINXCDMAMCV93MOPDSQ/Spruce154.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013478791-2RRJQ2A9QTV0NY40TGCJ/Spruce155.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer I now have a finished color coat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013478960-KC0FJKA63J83DPB5L9KH/Spruce156.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer I applied several coats of clear, and allowed it to cure for a few days before sanding. Then repeat paint and sanding again. I gave the lacquer 3 days to harden. Down here it’s about 90, so that’s like 3 months in the rest of the country. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013479068-JNAYBQ3E19PQ5H7RRVDX/Spruce157.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer So I take 400 grit (I was out of 320) and use a random orbit sander at about 50% speed, I just want to take down the high spots, I am NOT going for a finish sand, this is just an interim to prevent build-up on the high spots of the minute hills and valleys in the lacquers surface. Also roughing it up facilitates the new coat’s ability to melt into the previous, becoming one homogenous film. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013479339-CWIBIJTN7XUWHR9J03TS/Spruce158.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer I use the sander on the flat surfaces, then my fingers around the periphery. There is no need to use 220, then 320, then 500, 800, it just consumes sandpaper, and makes you sore. Also, you absolutely, positively do not want to sand through the clear, into the color coat, and worse, through the color. Watch everything closely. Once sanded, check it thoroughly, looking for anomalies that may make the final surface funky, take care of them now. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013479378-HEGFOZTHCDW9MOD0LE9N/Spruce159.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer Remember, resist the urge to put too much time and effort in sanding to a perfect flat surface, you are going to be spraying more lacquer, and you will be right back where you are. Once this sanding is completed, it’s time to get ‘er wet again. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013479854-9FOXY5KVZXS7C7UF91IK/Spruce160.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer Here’s what the first good wet coat looks like. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013482723-225IDI2YPQHQ1ZD43X8D/Spruce161.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer And here’s what it looks like looking through the finish. By that I mean look at it like it was a mirror and you were watching whatever light source was being reflected, here the light fixtures on the ceiling. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013480439-ALUPPNQC1KNCD3B1D99Y/Spruce162.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer After about 10 minutes, it is just about completely dry to the touch, but still feels just a “crack” damp. I give it another good full wet coat… stopping just before it’ll run. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013481681-W22OWBRW3VBMJGEE0TU4/Spruce163.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer Good wet coats help previously dried lacquer to melt into the new lacquer. Thin coats will never accomplish this, and when you get to the sanding, the new coats will peel. Here the body has dried a few hours, you can see the slight “orange peel”. But what you can’t tell is how very shallow the “pits” are as compared to the “hills”. It’ll only take about 3 passes with 800 wet or dry to cut that down to dead level. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013482112-V5U0X2KGI5FCOOMQ00YF/Spruce164.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer And heres the back at the area of the tummy contour. So this pretty much concludes the finishing stage on the body. Now it’ll hang in the back room for about 2 weeks before I get around to wet sanding and polishing ‘er. In the mean time, I’ll work on the neck. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586915586505-YHTGI4CLXSPPCLKPQHIU/Continue3.jpg Part 2 Color & Laquer To continue to Part 3 The Neck Choose: Slide show viewing or Single Page https://www.ronkirn.com/sitka-pt3 daily 0.75 2020-04-15 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013644403-04VSJLZ9IJUTQQVOQQ11/Spruce165.jpg Part 3 The Neck The USGA neck arrived, in the typical Tommy Rosamond fashion. Impeccable. But since the headstock needed to be reshaped, there was a little work to do prior to finishing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013644403-04VSJLZ9IJUTQQVOQQ11/Spruce165.jpg Part 3 The Neck The USGA neck arrived, in the typical Tommy Rosamond fashion. Impeccable. But since the headstock needed to be reshaped, there was a little work to do prior to finishing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013644473-326OJ0J1YYQR978I8L3P/Spruce166.jpg Part 3 The Neck The choice of headstock shape can be a controversial topic, so here I’ll use other photos showing the process as it is shaped into the headstock I use on many guitars. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013644559-8CE44A8522SZ6AO6XU77/Spruce167.jpg Part 3 The Neck The first thing is to create a template, of the desired shape, I trace out the existing headstock, re-draw the new style, then using a spindle sander fine tune to the final shape. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013644680-1JHWBWRKVQSWQLDGHZDW/Spruce168.jpg Part 3 The Neck Once I’m happy with the appearance, using double stick tape, fasten the template to the headstock. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013644745-Y9QBKA43A03PMCNGKKUH/Spruce169.jpg Part 3 The Neck If using tape to secure the template, be certain it is firmly attached, you wouldn’t want any slippage here now would ya? https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013644846-3SA8GOEGP57ZOX0Q7EVL/Spruce170.jpg Part 3 The Neck Now, I use the router to SLOWLY remove the excess lumber, working down to the template. If you’re removing large amounts of wood, you may want to trim the excess with a band, or jig, saw first. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013645021-T5CAQSFUUSP18HS5KQ22/Spruce171.jpg Part 3 The Neck Once the final shape has been achieved, it’s time to finish sand the bugger. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013645034-VNX4WPYDFGNRYQS441FE/Spruce172.jpg Part 3 The Neck Since sanding is a concept most understand, I’m not posting a lot of photos, showing my chubby little fingers pushing paper over the lumber, I just begin at the spindle sander then hit it with something like 150 grit, then 220, and finish with 320. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013645189-F10SFNL56DBRVU58MT5P/Spruce173.jpg Part 3 The Neck There are a few little things to do to fine tune the shape, mainly the flow from the back of the neck’s profile into the headstock. I just take a small sanding block and 150 paper and allow the block to follow the natural curve of the neck, removing the hard edges the router left. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013645294-S5GYZANHY6KWSYT1KS2K/Spruce174.jpg Part 3 The Neck Once it’s about right, I check in the sunlight, the ‘ol shadow trick, and then finish sand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013645539-5FUMJJ84PQ993BNSGZF1/Spruce175.jpg Part 3 The Neck Correct any foibles the sunlight may reveal, and that’s completed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013645531-Z8S8TSZRMG4SB2LUVXPM/Spruce176.jpg Part 3 The Neck Now, back to our regularly scheduled program, in progress, the neck for this guitar. In the sunlight, the shadows will reveal any irregularities in the graceful curves, some may be as subtle as .001 of an inch, but can be quite visible when it’s finished, so a light sanding will correct it and make life easier as you check your finished project in a few weeks. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013645725-87WY1M6QM78YZMK26XG5/Spruce178.jpg Part 3 The Neck If you have a fingerboard that doesn’t require lacquer, do not forget to mask it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013645862-8EI8MRDEXKW1POQYGQRR/Spruce179.jpg Part 3 The Neck Now, let’s make a little amber. I take about 8 oz of lacquer, give or take. This ain’t rocket science. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013645858-UVZ4GYTAL6UPW5CYO84O/Spruce180.jpg Part 3 The Neck And add about 8 drops of yellow. Sherwin Williams Universal dye… it’s not cheap and not easily removed from anything you get it on. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013646124-GLMMUPVER8NTTAL6XRGL/Spruce181.jpg Part 3 The Neck Since yellow is yellow and not amber, I need to add a some red. As I’m mixing, I use a paint stick I have made from a piece of scrap maple as close to the color of the neck as I can find. This allows me to assess the tint as I’m mixing. Here I’ve added a drop of orange… orange because it’s red and yellow. A single drop of just red would be too much. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013646188-ODJ8OR0WDX3FOTZSZD5S/Spruce182.jpg Part 3 The Neck Here you can see the color is about right. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013646303-TN8EFL36JHMWFDK1AR6A/Spruce183.jpg Part 3 The Neck What you want is a pot of lacquer that is about the same shade as a bottle of fine scotch. Also, when mixing your tint, keep it “thin”. You want to have to spray several coats to get the correct shade, this makes it much easier to control. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013646428-ZOOI7XAXSXUF20Q11E1B/Spruce184.jpg Part 3 The Neck Wipe the neck with a good degreaser, to remove any fingerprints or other funk that may have landed on it. I use lacquer thinner… and don’t forget the area where the tape was attached, it can leave a very thin residue, clean it well. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013646481-A4NX4TFN5ODQSYC7SVAG/Spruce185.jpg Part 3 The Neck And then give ‘er a squirt. Here I sprayed the head, so you could see the comparison with the un tinted maple. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013646606-E2H290DIERXQD3Z2Q81L/Spruce186.jpg Part 3 The Neck And here’s the neck with one coat compared to one un sprayed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013646644-09TEC7SWO3Z6AQYG9JIS/Spruce187.jpg Part 3 The Neck On this day I had a neck or two going, so there was one or two others to compare it to. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013647309-W1S41MHC823688DW80MU/Spruce188.jpg Part 3 The Neck Now it’s just a matter of re-applying coats until you have the shade you want. Once the correct color is applied, allow it to dry for about a half hour or so, or a month. Then shoot the head with a few coats of clear, to make a bed for the decal. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013647307-K111QXWIIBYUK116XV9C/Spruce189.jpg Part 3 The Neck Now that the lacquer has dried for a few hours, I can apply my decal. It’s a water slide, so I let it soak for about a minute, or until is slips freely around. With today’s modern decals, the film is generally a synthetic material and will stretch, so be gentle. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013647528-AXTZPFUSI140KG4VMGOO/Spruce190.jpg Part 3 The Neck I put a drop or two of water on the neck to facilitate placing the decal. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013647601-NVJ7O2GFK9PME8O5O1A5/Spruce191.jpg Part 3 The Neck Then slide the decal off the paper base onto the neck. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013648491-W9BOM0HA07PKIJD0BK7S/Spruce192.jpg Part 3 The Neck I very lightly press the decal into the approximate location, not hard enough to squeeze the water from between the decal and the neck, just hard enough to keep it from floating around. But I can still move it if I need to. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013648526-9FURYF3YVXKXHO0D09ED/Spruce193.jpg Part 3 The Neck Now I “eye ball” down the neck to get it visually “straight” relative to the apparent “lines” of the neck. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013648979-9VP43DWP8C4KIWOKT0VS/Spruce194.jpg Part 3 The Neck Now using the appropriate applicator, I start slowly working the water out from between the neck and decal. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013649059-0T8VYH830FALHJ6J61LD/Spruce195.jpg Part 3 The Neck The applicator is one specially designed for this particular use, here you see a roll I keep handy, I find keeping a “Bounty” of them handy is a good thing, also they can be used as a “quicker picker upper”. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013649348-GPIAN1DJF0STJ8QGG4NN/Spruce196.jpg Part 3 The Neck You will see when the decal attaches to the headstock, then I increase the pressure, to work the remaining moisture out. If you have additional decals, apply them now, it the same manner. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013649394-6I2MKVCCTWEPXWJ17OX4/Spruce197.jpg Part 3 The Neck Once the decal is set, check it closely in good lite from several angles… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013649651-7K1M8UIN1B2MT66Y9GBE/Spruce198.jpg Part 3 The Neck Now I let it dry thoroughly over night. Tomorrow is lacquer day. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013649705-XB795OX3TQMS3G1N1KBS/Spruce199.jpg Part 3 The Neck I put down about 5 coats of lacquer on the whole neck. The thickness is about equivalent to one coat of an enamel, poly, etc. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013649985-74SNFAY7JI4R0OH4YZIF/Spruce200.jpg Part 3 The Neck After a little wait, I wet sand to reduce the film thickness over the decal get it approximately level with the surrounding area. I let it dry then lightly sand the decal, to reduce the obvious hump the lacquer leaves. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013649993-Z9RITNGKI5K8INJ1YZCV/Spruce201.jpg Part 3 The Neck Then I will spray only the headstock face and decal with 5 more coats, allow to dry a day or so, sand, then will finish with another 5 coats. Since I’ll be putting 5 more coats on ‘er it doesn’t need to be perfect at this stage. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013650173-47NRTLRKEIZRZIOWKSFK/Spruce202.jpg Part 3 The Neck I do the back of the neck too, since it a large flat area, it just makes final wet sanding that much easier. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013650219-CFS3M2DHODQI4M739GM8/Spruce203.jpg Part 3 The Neck After this interim sanding, it’s back to spraying for a few more coats. But now, back to the body… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586916061588-P3QJQE2GEDGBG8R711IO/Continue4.jpg Part 3 The Neck To continue to Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Choose: Slide show viewing or Single Page https://www.ronkirn.com/sitka-pt4 daily 0.75 2020-04-15 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013694098-EZSWPM8R7178LW5NUMD1/Spruce204.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard OK, time to scratch ‘er up a little. I use 500 or 600 grit, then 800 on nitro. On harder finishes, I may take it one more step to 1200 grit. But here, I’m using 600 first. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013694098-EZSWPM8R7178LW5NUMD1/Spruce204.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard OK, time to scratch ‘er up a little. I use 500 or 600 grit, then 800 on nitro. On harder finishes, I may take it one more step to 1200 grit. But here, I’m using 600 first. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013694232-JRFC7T06FFM6BDE6TFFR/Spruce205.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard The large flat area helps “block” the surface to a very flat condition. Here, I’m using a piece of Corian that’s about 3 ½ by 4, more or less. Using mineral spirits as the wetting agent, I use circular motion watching the reflection of the lights overhead in the wet surface. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013694282-IVN7SIXMX2QCDH2H1CX9/Spruce206.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard After a few minutes, wipe the surface, allow the residue to dry, and check in natural light. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013694425-HUPUAOZJ675L3WQ6UKF6/Spruce207.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard You are looking for a nice even matte appearance, no glossy spots should remain. Here on the back, I have stopped early to show how not to do it. While this could be corrected as I move up to the next grit, that would be slower cutting, resulting in more work. So go back, wet it again, and continue sanding until the surface is completely matte. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013694484-VVHYZ359QO0LFQBHP7BC/Spruce208.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard To do the edges, on a Strat since about everything else is a curved surface, I go to using my hand, this allows great control and feel. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013694572-AR2WWO2HM1WBLQCYJY6Q/Spruce209.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard On the inside areas, you will find them a bit more tedious to sand, but stay with it until the entire surface is matte. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013694633-60FK99ZO8OEDBFCUMGRU/Spruce210.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Once that’s done, it’s time to move up to the next grit. I’m using 800 here, which will be the last. There is considerable difference in the various brands of sand paper. There’s Norton, Gator Grit, Mirka, Klingspor, 3M and on and on. I have found that the 3M Imperial is about the best, fastest cutting around. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013694701-V4P0WJSZRVB2G3Q94P6C/Spruce211.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Now just repeat all the previous sanding, but you will see, it takes much less time and effort this time. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013694784-SW63M491GVYDJNZV4I6Z/Spruce212.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Now get in the sunlight and check for any areas that may have been missed. They will appear glossy. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013694827-1VUID4I6E82TPGL8KMJ4/Spruce213.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Give it a good look… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013694909-FEFK5UOG92NJZBTCIS00/Spruce214.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard If any areas are still glossy, go back and correct them. It doesn’t matter how small, they will stick out like a lunar crater in the finished body. You should now have a smooth, evenly matte surface, ready for the buffing wheel.. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013694977-V88WFIO34JTWNXYO61LR/Spruce215.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard So we have a nicely sanded body, waiting for a chance to shine. I “charge” the buffing wheel with tan buffing compound, available from Grizzly.com. It’s not as messy as the liquid compounds. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013695067-R6Y4AXQOZ15OSRRS5ALW/Spruce216.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Then just press and keep it moving. I add more buffing compound every few minutes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013695117-TZB0I7YNB962OB4ZFVHG/Spruce217.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard This took about a minute. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013695213-0DULCHEJ7OVHWE0F9KJ3/Spruce218.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard This is about 10 minutes into it. The only caution with lacquer is that it will soften due to the heat generated by friction. This is a “double edged sword”. The soft lacquer takes a polish very fast, but soft lacquer can scratch quite easily too. Jut be careful. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013695287-M1USLRSWDT6J2O5WXM1X/Spruce219.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard One of the areas that usually get less attention is the inside of the horns. They can be rather tedious to polish. If using a power buffing wheel you must be careful not to allow the wheel to burn through. Particularly on the sharp corners around the neck pocket and heel. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013695378-0MQA15E01VKJ7Z66QFRK/Spruce220.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Just take it slow, I usually reduce the wheel speed to the lowest setting. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013695413-6A6Q39AXVSESTTAY5I5V/Spruce221.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard It’s attention to detail in these areas that reduce that much adored “homemade” look to a minimum. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013695566-4KYQJ8O0FYZS17QQCVTB/Spruce222.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Once this area is completed, I work around the outside edges. Watching the reflections in the gloss on the body, this will allow you to see any abrasions remaining from the wet sanding, and address them. And this is the finished product. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013695687-I8742JPYWBYX2LQYP2VC/Spruce223.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard And the back. At this point the body is complete. I will take a good car wax and give it a good polishing. Next, it’s Pickguard time. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013695866-MXO5OCVULL6KFAVQED7X/Spruce224.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard I make my own pickguards, mainly because there is so much variation from one batch to the next from the different suppliers. Also, wood will move on ya. This way, if a body shrinks a little, I can adjust the pick guard to accommodate it. Here’s the candidate for today’s project. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013695958-0B4ORJ367YJTEBCHPDRL/Spruce225.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard This template has been made specifically for the ’62 S. The body is only a few degrees separated from a genuine 1962 S. Today’s pickguards differ slightly from those found on the ’62.. so I corrected that. Now we determine what shade Tortoise Shell pickguard will look best. I prefer the brown. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013696174-QWQPP5JKHJDNOPVZJQF1/Spruce226.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard I trace out the shape and head to the band saw to cut out the rough shape. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013696226-BOI3BAQ1BQY4RTW6R5AO/Spruce227.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard I use good ‘ol golf grip tape to secure the blank to the template. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013696380-OZGDX9PUU6M8GM3W21V3/Spruce228.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Apply good firm pressure to get a good secure bond, then to the drill press. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013696471-BNJL50TXP7POG0GMTEOL/Spruce229.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard I drill a pilot hole in the pickup holes, and drill the pot mounting holes, and all other holes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013696922-NMSQ8DPBFJMKNMUPFE9B/Spruce230.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard When drilling laminated pickguard material, use a fresh backing. If your table is full of old holes, the downward pressure from the drill press can cause the surface lamination to separate and pop loose. It’s not repairable, so use something under the pickguard that has no voids, and move the pickguard to a new location for each hole. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013697009-02XLYXVSWG134S2XQYWV/Spruce231.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Now it pretty straightforward, just go around the template, rather slowly. Once complete, clean all the plastic shavings off the table and the work and go around again. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013697957-M8G4BP365XI0RXSLJV4C/Spruce232.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard At this point, I check to be certain the neck has a nice neat fit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013698005-AVNOLAWZD0WZUBSHTLR8/Spruce233.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard I now change to a 3/8 inch diameter router bit, and cut the pickup holes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013698363-L6X00Y18TQHDR8V5PT3U/Spruce234.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard It now looks strangely like a pickguard. Next, the beveled edge… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013698811-JTLCYUI29KGF1DNHVFJA/Spruce235.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Now put a 45 degree bevel bit in the router. Sorry I plain forgot to photograph it, but it looks like a 45 degree bevel bit. I adjust so I’m sure it will not make too deep of a cut, I want to adjust the height of the bit to get it correct, in this shot, you can see the 3rd ply, the black, is just beginning to “peek” out. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013698891-9SGLP9QZNQ17PY7QGLE3/Spruce236.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard I raise the router a few thousandths, and this is the results. It’s good, so rout the bevel. Be careful though, there are areas that do not get beveled, the neck pocket, and the tremolo cutout. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013699119-7SE1ITQT9RFWQJ2FI80X/Spruce237.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Now go back and check visually to be certain the “lines” are all cut evenly. If you see areas that are cut too shallow so the different layers of the pickguard aren’t even, re-cut, applying more downward pressure in those areas. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013699246-JWDGS12W97AM8GDXYWNQ/Spruce238.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Once the bevel is correct, I move on to countersink the screw holes. I use the layers of the pickguard as a reference, to determine the depth, or you can set the drill press stop and use sheets of paper to work the pickguard up into the countersink to get to the correct depth. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013699316-4613QVJ6QJ083VU7SY9O/Spruce239.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard I’ll check with a pickguard screw to be sure I know what I’m doing…lookin’ good. All the screw holes are countersunk with the exception of the switch screws. I need those holes for the next task, cutting the switch slot. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013700120-JZE4FQ1BCZJXMVMD1O0U/Spruce240.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard I get my trusty switch slot gizmo… a jig I made, and a Dremel with a 1/16 inch bit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013700285-4YJ44ECPAEMWN1JSFJ3H/Spruce241.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard The jig was made so that the 2 hold down screws are in the same location as the switch mounting screws. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013700341-KY3IDCE3VDQCC2BHLFXE/Spruce242.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Adjust the Dremel, so it will just cut through the pickguard. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013700664-3KTHQFTCGCA820ZYJOZ2/Spruce243.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Now it’s just a matter of gently lowering the bit into the slot, and making a pass, while continuing to move the Dremel, turn it off. Once it has stopped, remove it, and clean out all the plastic chips, then repeat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013700927-FKC75CZKOUWL0BNF3W6C/Spruce244.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard By continually moving the tool you reduce the chance a clump of plastic will attach itself to the bit, and burn a section of the slots edge. We now have a slot. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013701002-ML23JSS3NWKAPFQQA0EU/Spruce245.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Now since the pickguard mounting screws are a different size than the switch mounting screws, we need to be careful when countersinking the holes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013701250-X4QKIW3Y8B2C60DE7ML1/Spruce246.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard I just use the same process on the drill press, watching the exposed rings of the different layers of the pickguard plastic, then check with a screw. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013701332-Z98DK4VE1JHR0R5ZBFO8/Spruce247.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Using an emery board, smooth the switch slot, and clean any plastic shavings. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013701503-B2CCMSP84YM4PJ6OZATI/Spruce248.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard I now install the switch to be certain it fits and the selections can be made without any interference from the pickguard. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013701614-MCURJZBNUH9WIODH2NFL/Spruce249.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard I’ll now take a moment to clean any remaining plastic shavings, etc. from the back side. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013702422-8WTXXC2JI3YIIVUOX9R4/Spruce250.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard And the pickguard is ready. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013702791-2Q6G82T500LM9I6J6FGU/Spruce251.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard So whadya do with a nice new pickguard, why ya load it up and wire the rascal. So I get all the “stuff” together, and organize it on a specially designed mat specifically intended for assembling state of the art electronics, and wiping up spilled spaghetti sauce. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013702860-9JCOHSEE6X5TR6ZPDF6F/Spruce252.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Do the preliminary assembly, lock nut, star washer, and into the hole… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013703251-0WOFI2DHNW5DXJ5T1HDS/Spruce253.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Don’t tighten anything yet, you will usually have to slide the shield, if you use the vintage style, to get it into position. It’s also not unusual to have to enlarge a hole or two to get it all together. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013703326-PVCF9PEEX5QMT6HA0J98/Spruce254.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Once everything is mounted, tighten down the pots and switch. I use silicone tubing as spacers for the pickups. It is indestructible, and if you choose the right size, it just fits over the 6-32 height adjusting screws tight enough to hold em in place while you run the screws into the pickups. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013703469-WIP8JA8ZMFWY7LH0U045/Spruce255.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard I also use linen string to tie the wiring to make for a neat assembly. I cannot stand to open a guitar and see old tape wrapped around the wiring, the string is so much neater. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013703543-1YTL15FX4Y9XC1PTT8M2/Spruce256.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Now I solder the 3 primary pickup leads to the switch, and bundle the 3 ground wires. On most S-types, I will use an isolated ground point, isolated by an audio grade capacitor. There is no sonic change, but the resulting S is as quiet as one with humbuckers. For me, it’s a no brainer. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013703690-VH5CLISLTLV9ZJAPKMWZ/Spruce257.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard So just keep on following what ever schematic you have selected, until you run out of things to solder. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013703927-ZRL8EQZRT0TP6ODGDZHA/Spruce258.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard I’ve about completed everything by now. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013703978-BY9AXW6V20HOI9VOVTT0/Spruce259.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard So it’s about time to check things out. I’ve connected the jack. For those that may be unaware, the spiraled hookup wire is for a reason; by spiraling them you get a shielding effect. So if you want it quiet, and want the vintage appearance of cotton covered wire, twist ‘em. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013704194-GEBG10S8RBVKDAU5A656/Spruce260.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Now, I plug ‘er in to the amp, um, turned down… and using a specially developed tool I’ll test each pickup and switch combination. It’s ready for installation. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586916108757-ZH0B22PGPWRJAPCYK5MR/Continue5.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard To continue to Part 5 Finishing the Neck Choose: Slide show viewing or Single Page https://www.ronkirn.com/sitka-pt5 daily 0.75 2020-04-15 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013934304-KJLJMWYXKJXOZY0JTSCT/Spruce261.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Time to convert a well lacquered neck into the business end of a great guitar. First thing to do is adjust the truss rod. I don’t use some over-priced specialized tool. This is because I know the neck is not level, and a few thousandths variation is normal, thats why we do a fret leveling. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013934304-KJLJMWYXKJXOZY0JTSCT/Spruce261.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Time to convert a well lacquered neck into the business end of a great guitar. First thing to do is adjust the truss rod. I don’t use some over-priced specialized tool. This is because I know the neck is not level, and a few thousandths variation is normal, thats why we do a fret leveling. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013934305-VA599KGI5HXMMRFAGJED/Spruce262.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Further, every neck made needs to have the frets leveled to achieve optimum playability, every one. Sure, with very high action you can get away without it, but if you want em lighting fast, you gotta do it. So take a reasonable straightedge. I’m using a framing square here, ‘cause it was close at hand. Anything of reasonable straightness will do. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013934496-H89RXV34GN5SB2K1IYVY/Spruce263.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Adjust the truss rod, so that it’s “pulling” the neck to flatness as opposed to releasing the tension to get it there. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013934641-TFMOB0P8N8ZSGB4NVNT0/Spruce264.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Then use whatever method you’re comfortable with to secure the neck so you have full access to all the frets, all the time and it doesn’t scoot all over the work bench. I just use a piece of MDF screwed to the workbench. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013934848-9UDXVGVM0RTI3J7Z69EI/Spruce265.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck And a screw through the tuning key hole. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013934916-YEBZ958E1YATVSCZZ5CD/Spruce266.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Now, using a ridged flat (should be certifiably flat) piece of whatever. Attach an abrasive. Here I am using a piece of Corian, with 180 grit resin backed sanding tape. Corian is a wonderful material around the shop. Flat, rigid and machines with any woodworking tools, although carbide is recommended. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013935067-9JC4ECBXFRTZPBVTN4OZ/Spruce267.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Take a marker and mark the top of each fret, this will allow you to see the progress much easier. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013935182-IVL2EJKDQP4V83SE25EO/Spruce268.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck All ready to rock. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013935438-QWV2U96FA5XSXAWBOQ1R/Spruce269.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Now I start scrubbing up and down the neck. Allow the weight of the tool to do the work. If you start pressing, even very rigid tools can flex slightly, but by allowing gravity to hold ‘er in place, the cutting is equalized over the entire fret board. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013935437-0GNNHWQDXVSDH18UIJMU/Spruce270.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck This is the results after about 5 passes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013935717-6RTECJGVDXN0064QB2I8/Spruce271.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Here you can see the frets as they are being cut. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013935765-O51B8JA98OY9BCHM4MLN/Spruce272.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck And in this shot, all are leveled, except one. There is always a stubborn one. But you stay with it, allowing the tool to cut all the frets down to the one that is so obstinate. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013936024-OQU7PPY0FFDTKOH15OEV/Spruce273.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Now we have ‘em all under control, each one level relative to the others. Here’s a trick of the trade.. frets above the 12th are the ones that give the most trouble for achieving fast action, or for bending notes. Take your leveling tool and apply pressure take these frets down a crack, while not affecting those below the 12th any more. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013936023-SB6M7K14X1MG7KZ8984B/Spruce274.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck What this does is cut those frets a few ten thousandths lower that the others, allowing for slightly more clearance for the strings. Some neck manufacturers are now offering this as a service, but since the neck needs to be leveled, what’s the point? https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586827905466-NXLLBJVX7GMPIHYNRKT2/Spruce275.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck This bugger’s done. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013936988-YKO6CGQP008CWSY6H3TF/Spruce279.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013936989-LFL3TNE9LQ0I6T28TJAA/Spruce280.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Ok time to finish the frets. One of the few tools you cannot make, or find a substitute for is a fret crowning file. You gotta take the leap, and get a real fret file. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013937243-UPNVAAY0KOSK3C25AG9X/Spruce281.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Here I gave ya a time stamp, to give ya an idea how quickly this goes. Crowning the fret correctly is a matter of watching the crown. The leveling tool leaves scratches from the sandpaper across the frets, and the crowning leaves scratches along the length. So you can see what’s happening. It’s crowned, when you can just see a faint amount of the leveling marks remaining, just a hint. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013936718-DYRVJAG51QM315P3D6Q3/Spruce276.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck To polish them, I save most of my old sand paper, just for this occasion. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013936433-TEHA3T2AHN8YTOT3RLCF/Spruce277.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Then using whatever method suits you to protect the fingerboard, start sanding each one. I’m using 400 grit here. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013936735-4RWMGUJYVCYGZVF6NS33/Spruce278.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck To protect the fingerboard, tape works well too. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013938012-IDFW5O68QBUJWZSB85SP/Spruce282.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Once that’s accomplished, I mark the heel So I know it’s been leveled. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013938266-KJ7H4GNYXCPEVE4IHJGI/Spruce284.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Time to wet sand the neck. Here I use a small block, a piece of Corian again and 600 wet or dry paper. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013939110-L8LW0HPWWOYWSJY48KJ1/Spruce286.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Pay attention to the details, use a flat block and be careful around the curves, it’s easy to sand right through here. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013938477-E7V2PYRYHB0RJAYH26DW/Spruce285.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Once you think you’re through, back into the sunlight, check closely for those elusive shiny areas, they indicate a low spot that hasn’t been hit by the wet sanding yet. I mask off the fingerboard so I can sand the rosewood behind the nut, it gives a more complete detailed appearance. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013939108-VVY836STH3LRXRKC94U6/Spruce287.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Note the edge where the lacquer can accumulate. Sand until it’s all level. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013939380-0Z72D3VVYQI3KU36Y9YA/Spruce288.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck I now use a specially designed tool to support the neck, this one I believe was designed by a guy named Phillips. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013939447-NX0EY27R75Y2V8614QBZ/Spruce289.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Using the block, I sand the edge of the fingerboard. I continue until the lacquer edge it completely “feathered” into the wood, so you cannot feel the edge. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013939644-IHWERB9CUG2GBZTY7EHN/Spruce290.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Once the edge is done, I sand about ½ inch onto the back of the neck using a rolling motion to keep the block flat with the neck. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013939662-UEI002ED8FSHZ77A2JB8/Spruce291.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Once the neck is done with the sanding block, I will now go over it all by hand. I wet sand using mineral spirits. I’ll repeat everything with 800 grit after I do the initial sanding with 600. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013939771-JXSEVKOEJ9AHJSB0R1AD/Spruce292.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck As usual, go over everything visually looking for the tale-tale, shiny spots, and sand ‘em before moving on. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013939832-QN2D54QXJV2H8599HHQM/Spruce293.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013939948-EN5L3LQLBRKBBWOO3YZO/Spruce294.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Once that’s done you should have a nice consistent matte, or semi matte surface begging for polishing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013940070-LN8JP6OC8I9M1RGCZ1CH/Spruce295.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Most people want a matte back of the neck, as do I. So I don’t polish the back of the neck. The matte finish is vastly superior to the sprayed semi gloss clear coats manufacturers use, and gives the neck the feel of a well played naturally worn neck. Instead, I mask off areas. This gives a clean delineation between the gloss and the matte areas, it just looks nice too. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013940137-4D7QZZ1G1SXTK700BTU3/Spruce296.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Charge, load, or whatever you wanna call it, put some polishin’ stuff on the buffing wheel… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013940230-W42NE6FED86IFTTLW7BK/Spruce297.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck and start polishing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013940273-T65KX8OQ86LNQF8L67WW/Spruce298.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck If using a power buffing machine, stop every so often to keep heat from building up. Heat is not your friend here, unless you have been doing this a very long time and learned how to use the heat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013940432-06Z7IPUDEF25S4MX2EMV/Spruce299.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck By now you should have a beautifully polished neck. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013940440-97MZJSVL9XVLCW91CCPT/Spruce300.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013940587-OH8B43TMKUT6R2DLWDQM/Spruce301.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Ready for the home stretch… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013940667-Y72O29VOMROMOVR56267/Spruce302.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck I’ve already sanded with 400 grit, no polishing is really required. The act of playing the guitar will press the strings into the frets burnishing them. But that’s not the way I do it, mine go out so highly polished, I get calls asking how I do it…. Hehehe my little secret.. gotta keep a few cards hidden. But now I dab oil onto the fingerboard. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013940878-VQ63S4HCW53XS2GF1AQ7/Spruce303.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Then sit it aside for a couple of hours to let it soak into the wood. I use any number of oils, lemon oil is great and easy to find. Do not use oils that dry. Tung oil, linseed oil and such are not good choices. After allowing the oil to be absorbed, I clean the excess thoroughly. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013940942-W0IAHTDGG5FT216DTGXW/Spruce304.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck The final step. I give it a good coat of a quality wax, one with a high carnauba wax content, and this is the results of the masking. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013941077-B2LM93LFFVFKA3IXNPB0/Spruce305.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013941221-GISJI3I5G4RR3OPBSZIJ/Spruce306.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Installing the keys isn’t too difficult, but this is how I do ‘em…. Shaller Locking. Note that most of them are staggered today, that means the posts are shorter on some. Place the shorter posts on the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd strings. Some will have 3 lengths, the middle length would go on the 3rd and 4th in that case. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013941651-OU24NK3Q592FP92Q123U/Spruce307.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Even if you ordered your neck drilled for the specific keys you are installing, you are going to find they will still need reaming. For Kluson vintage style ream the face until the ferrules slide about ½ way in. For Schaller and Sperzel, ream the back side until the key fits. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013941761-QW8354O5WFXQDSVFZX9M/Spruce308.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Be very careful reaming. I recommend getting a real reamer. A drill bit will grab the soft wood, chip lacquer, split headstock. You want something that removes wood slowly. A Dremel works well too. This does not have to be a precision fit, just snug. I have a rotary file that is the exact size, I use it to complete what I began with the ream. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013942755-9FD4L82263QR9E8HWM19/Spruce309.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Reaming leaves lacquer curled up... remove it with a small countersink by hand, and then place the keys in the holes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013942767-NJHK4K5XY2NPPLMVDKL5/Spruce310.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck I use a small relatively straight edge to position the keys so they aren’t skewed relative to each other. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013943153-P1CDW4XBVM8ZSIS0U1ZU/Spruce311.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Now give each a light rap with whatever… just something soft so you don’t scratch the keys. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013943251-8RL5790JKPRVKLBGXLIY/Spruce312.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Which leaves a slight dimple marking the location of the pins that secure the keys and keep them from rotating. I now take an awl and mark then for drilling. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013943999-GYTEL31JIQVCRDZ11WIL/Spruce313.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck The tape is self explanatory. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013944115-ZSMY0WCP1L1BIJTDY7H7/Spruce314.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Now… drill away. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013944234-S4ZQSE4330VVNKY1HCWZ/Spruce315.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Clean the shavings and insert the keys. Screw in the bushings finger tight. NOTE - on Schaller and Sperzel, the threads are very fine and cut into soft metal, stop at any sign of resistance. You can cross thread these babies at the drop of a hat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013944326-JRKYBRZ4FWAO8ZOKKWKQ/Spruce316.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Now, tighten with the appropriate socket, 10mm for Schaller, 7/16 for Sperzel. And use a CLEAN socket, not the one you used to take the lawn mower apart last weekend. We now have a very nice neck. And no, I cannot put the retainer in yet. Next up, the nut… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013944475-DU99Q1U0NI4TWYXJFVJA/Spruce317.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck I stock the curved nuts, and re cut it where necessary for a flat nut slot. No rocket science here, just be sure to hold it flat to the work table so the bottom is at 90 degrees. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013945516-GTPN7FAPNR6KZB3NKIXX/Spruce318.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Before and after. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013945526-6ZYFJL0YG3MRHW3I8V3V/Spruce319.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck The raw nut is rarely the correct thickness, so it has to be lapped down to the correct size. I just use apiece of 320 grit on a good flat work surface. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013945664-75NEIIOL1QL6Q7VXEA63/Spruce320.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Working it back and forth, making sure to apply even pressure and check often, what you want is a snug fit. Snug meaning you can press it in, and get it back out. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013945930-DWQXQZ1YQH5K84IX8AT7/Spruce321.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck In the last pic, you can see the nut doesn’t fit in all the way, so back to the sand paper. I forgot to photograph it, but I use a dial caliper to check to see that it’s consistent along the length. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013946001-Z6M0HUHG7UN8LJZHY8GI/Spruce322.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck It fits… so let’s get it ready for the slots. A raw nut is entirely too high and wide. So I mark it as seen here, I just leave enough so that I can slot it, then finalize the height. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013946171-ELV7PRXGSE0VXT8ZMNJC/Spruce323.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013946500-N9J4CNTYHI0LSDOVEDDS/Spruce324.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Now back to the disk sander. I use the stick to press it against the disk, and pressure with my finger to hold it flat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013946494-23PYHM2GQXMBHXWN5UNO/Spruce325.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Now the ends…. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013946619-F0Z1QINHXNUVMIR8JEZ9/Spruce326.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck I just stay with it until it’s the correct length. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013946700-ARW8K1VNGRTF65OF3845/Spruce327.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Now I cut the 1st and 6th string slots, allowing for enough relief at the edges. Some like ‘em very close to the edges, some like ‘em all bunched up about in one notch. It just depends on what has been requested. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013946761-1WAUN28DBRPEAXRG7S13/Spruce328.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Once those are cut, they become a reference for the Stew Mac nut slotting ruler. This is 25 bux well spent if you’re doing several guitars, and I know you will, won’t ya? https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013946938-YTCHY6CYM3DP6QM1BG67/Spruce329.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Using the Stew Mac tool, I mark the location of the remaining notches. The tool automatically spaces each string so they are visually evenly spaced. If you space them with dividers or other means of marking, while correctly spaced, they look uneven due to the different gauges. I use an X-Acto knife, with the tip of the blade broken off, this gives a very fine scratch tool that just fits inside the slots on the Stew Mac tool. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013947005-TI1523RCJJNIWFNXY73A/Spruce330.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Once it’s marked, I go over it lightly with a pencil to highlight the marks. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013947223-4NWHH23SYGZV6O3BJ4KE/Spruce331.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Now I use one of the smaller nut files to cut a preliminary slot. I use the smaller file because it’s easier to see down the sides to get the slot cut exactly on the mark. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013947299-O18WS0DVWKER6ZWDA5TF/Spruce332.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Now, I follow up with the correct file for the correct slot. I do not try to cut them to the correct depth now. That happens during final setup, after I finish shaping the nut and polishing it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013947906-INL8P971OL6IMNUUVGUA/Spruce333.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Now, it’s time to place the string retainer. I use a high precision tool to simulate the location of the 1st and 2nd strings… a string. I tape it to the fingerboard, run it down across the 1st string nut slot, around the key, loop it under and around the second key, across the 2nd string slot and tape the end. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013947970-F5B502NWM4KJNZ6KC20P/Spruce334.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013948280-80FHF078B2ZJE60XR6BA/Spruce335.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Now take the retainer, place it over the string in the correct location, take an awl and mark the location of the screw. Drill a pilot hole and run it in. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013948402-00IO0GZKCLSNEVWSK25D/Spruce336.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck As a tip, I always coat the screws with bee’s wax, an old candle will suffice too. This facilitates running the screw in what can be very hard wood. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013948691-LXTZ8K7TAUHI472OBGIP/Spruce337.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck This baby’s done. The nut will be finished after set up. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013948689-K3BOIVBOXYZMS4RUPU5T/Spruce338.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck I’ll now make myself a subtle note to remind myself of anything I need to know when I begin final assembly in a few days. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586916133510-B2F77QMVBL8POZE8IHKK/Continue6.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck To continue to Part 6 Final Assembly Choose: Slide show viewing or Single Page https://www.ronkirn.com/sitka-pt6 daily 0.75 2020-04-15 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014027345-RZW5K1I3D02KGF836997/Spruce345.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Now that the body is lacquered, wet-sanded, and polished, it’s time to get out one more little tool to finish it off. WARNING! Do not attempt the following, this is a demonstration only. On my guitars, take an extra step and recess the neckplate, the back tremolo spring cover plate, and front the jack plate. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014027345-RZW5K1I3D02KGF836997/Spruce345.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Now that the body is lacquered, wet-sanded, and polished, it’s time to get out one more little tool to finish it off. WARNING! Do not attempt the following, this is a demonstration only. On my guitars, take an extra step and recess the neckplate, the back tremolo spring cover plate, and front the jack plate. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014027540-VM0P83OLM8JOYPVH6ZQW/Spruce346.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly I cannot make a generic template to rout for these components because they always show up made to slightly different measurements. So I first take a template I have made that is a few thousandths too small for most neck plates, and start cutting and testing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014027612-VVNK97DEAP71WJ6MMQN7/Spruce347.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly I rout a little and check depth. I want the surface of the neck plate to sit just a few thousandths above the surrounding lacquer so that nothing will snag on the lacquer’s edge, which could cause cracks or chips. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586868945695-FR8RI6FNJHWP3OIUXN5S/Spruce348.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly I now make the first pass with the router, then try the fit… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014027822-67ELPUSSCEKW6LOZ2DF1/Spruce349.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Checking the fit. I do not want to have to press it in. It should drop freely but with no more than the thickness of a piece of paper around it. Why? Because the wood will shrink and swell, the lacquer gets brittle over time, shrinking wood + brittle lacquer + non yielding steel plates = cracks. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014027886-9QER76JXHSATNCEKT5HL/Spruce350.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly If it fits, and sometimes it does, it’s good to go. But if not, more cutting and testing. I keep a handful of neck plates ready to go because since they’re different sized I may luck out and find one that fits perfectly, but if not…. rout.. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014028007-G7SR7Q1EIZHLXS0SDAC0/Spruce351.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly I note the position of the router during the first pass. Place the router back in the template, turn it on, and carefully move it to one corner, and rotate the router 1/8 turn, and make another pass around the periphery of the template. In doing this, am enlarging the recess by about 1/32” each time, using the inherent and minute inaccuracies of the router to my advantage. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014028099-882QG09XYLNZZBKYSYR3/Spruce352.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly An example of a perfect fit (in scrap). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014028202-AS79ZPN9C0PMD9XMJ26Y/Spruce353.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly White knuckle time… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586873160954-TXXANDT3Q6CTRECWR30Y/Spruce354.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Take the plate and locate it over the screw holes… note, when you tighten the screws the countersunk design will force the neckplate in the direction as indicated by the relationship of the screw hole to the hole in the plate. They rarely are perfect. So you want the plate to get forced AWAY from the thin edges of the body. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586874389264-112JQSLDNKD0A4K23DGP/Spruce355.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly I cover the back side of the template with paper towel to prevent scratches, and use a light mist of 3M – 77 spray adhesive to hold it. NOT double stick tape. I avoid tape whenever possible. The solvents in tape glue can eat into lacquer. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586875071732-174BX8E86ZB1RNZ4V6HJ/5-5.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Now carefully place the template over the neck plate without bumping it like I do 9 out of 10 times. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014028487-E7D6E565EC4FN8GGNR9M/Spruce356.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly And gently clamp it in position. This is another “feel” thing. Clamp too hard, the lacquer cracks. Too little and the template moves while routing, converting the body, and hours of work thus far, into firewood. So, no big deal. I give it a little tug to be absolutely certain it’s not going to move with the light pressure of the router against the template. I say a little prayer, and rout the mutha… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014028686-219M9ED5IAZ27R5FB9FI/Spruce357.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Then I repeat the routing like I did in the test. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586878112490-GGIKZTIDINS546V084H2/Spruce358.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly And take a dry paper towel and lightly burnish the lacquer “fuzz” off the edge. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586878551145-31QP0Y5E5WENARUMSV47/Spruce382.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Now it’s double whammy white knuckle time. BTW regarding the templates, I made them by hand with files, sanding drums and whatever I could find. There are an awful lot of details that go into making a template, it is NOT as simple as marking a shape and cutting it out. A lot of detail, skill, and experience goes into making a functional template. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014034282-VIHKD9C3SH74WTPKM2FO/Spruce383.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly After YOU have made your template, you gotta test it… so cut one in scrap whatever, about .030 +/- deep… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586879305725-FJVMBUNNCQWGHXIERCB4/Spruce384.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Check with the jack plate upside down. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586879405915-IMSYR6JGLFC0WYDWZPYS/Spruce386.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly When it fits upside down, create the recess to fit it right side up. You can not depend on the fit upside down, these things are never perfectly symmetrical. I do this for every single jack plate I fit, because they are all slightly different. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014034549-8VS2AH7MZHSXNGWHKD69/Spruce385.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014034737-G6RB1IU2A2U2BGIAL5G5/Spruce387.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly When the fit on your template is perfect, you can place it on the body. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014034950-5HJUA2JR2YGLOU72O30C/Spruce390.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Take the template and carefully place it over the work area. Without moving the template, remove the jack plate, and clamp it down. Again, carefully as to secure it sufficiently, but without cracking the lacquer. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014034814-XAIGBKBV6APSSZOSGEB9/Spruce388.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Now using the template guide and bit. The bit needs to be no larger than 3/16th diameter to cut the radius for the sharp round point. And I begin to make the cut. I just nip the top of the body cavity to check depth.. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014034863-SYCUCOR8S6EBONR2TZOM/Spruce389.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly If it looks good, I continue to cut out the whole area. It’s a fine line between perfection and firewood. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014035048-OER9H28439IBI05D1G0U/Spruce391.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Because the underside is rounded due to the stamping process, you must relieve the hard edge. I use a Dremel. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014035154-HSXIWL3QKZVDRT07IE68/Spruce392.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly And this is what you wind up with. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014031348-RP9HEAN0FGEH3M7UDSCC/Spruce371.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Whew. But not done yet, the trem plate is next. First I have to mount the tremolo. I put a little tape, to be removed quickly, on the surface so I can draw pretty pictures. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014030553-CD0YXGIZ1IIL4O72V91M/Spruce370.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Position the tremolo so the first string bridge is about 12 ¾ from the 12th fret, and mark the position. That’s what all the lines are above. I mark max forward, max back and full right and left, then position the tremolo in the middle of the marks. This gives clearance all around for full tremolo action. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014031685-H8S9I4JMWL7QAKOIU68Y/Spruce372.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Now just take an awl of the same diameter as the screw holes and give a light twist. This will mark the location for the screw holes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014038543-DZYC6PD3IXWY429I8UYY/Spruce413.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Drill your pilot holes and mount the tremolo. This is a Wilkinson Vintage Trem, steel trem block, a great tremolo. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014038694-EJ6KU01S0ORKYWHOTGMY/Spruce414.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Before I mount the tremolo with the permanent screws, I temporarily mount it with a few small screws to lock its location so I can place the tremolo spring cover plate in the correct location. I tighten screws until there is about 1/8th clearance across the back and it is level relative to the surface of the guitar. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014031867-59U61V19YBYMTNKTYMFO/Spruce373.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly I now place the tremolo over the tremolo unit aligning the string holes in the block with the access holes in the plate. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014032029-BHBM3F2SDJ30JVYUZNAX/Spruce374.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Then I outline it with tape. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014032220-UD4SN6DMC64ZQG2QKATG/Spruce375.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014032353-AJ2A6NM2QJWT70QPB60C/Spruce376.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly But first, back to the testing. Chromed tremolo spring cover plates are not uniform in dimension either, so you have to be accurate. Take the template and cut a test in scrap. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014032538-KPV2HF3CYCIOA7ZHM1BQ/Spruce377.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Using the same methodology as with the neck plate, rotate the router to get a perfect fit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014032603-78UKPRDW67DMP250MXSW/Spruce378.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Check carefully. This is big, where little mistakes jump out and grab ya. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014032716-Z9ODCE7H6PJLTCVJFEQP/Spruce379.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Once there, align the template with the tape outline. Extreme precision in placement is not necessary, there’s plenty of wiggle room, you want it square relative to the body. Mount the template and clamp, don’t crack the lacquer, check to be certain it isn’t going to move. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014032959-GROAB0XFC0HU6JN37DRF/Spruce380.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Then try a couple of test cuts to verify depth. Again I want the cover to stand proud of the surrounding surface just a few thousandths, so nothing snags on the lacquer’s edge. Then follow the same procedure that gave you the perfect results during the test cut. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014033016-049Y72TZIJ5JI64BMRWO/Spruce381.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly The results. Not too shabby. Next up.. enough shielding to fend off a Romulan attack… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014035350-5JGQLWDOD41UQQU04KUR/Spruce394.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly While it can be argued which method works best, conductive paint, conductive adhesive metal foil, plain sheet metal, or the type of metal, what ever you choose will suffice. I use copper sheet…plain and simple. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014035232-RHI9N3LQFKR1R4DJQZZH/Spruce393.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly I use the templates I used for the body to outline the bottoms of the various cavities. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014035408-FOZKYKV8WYDR3K8HBGEJ/Spruce395.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly And cut em out. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014035664-5MQNKUSUI3AS0JU6GYV9/Spruce396.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Once they’re all cut out, I smooth ‘em out with a socket. It’s hard, smooth and presses ‘em really nicely. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014035733-H3464EKMEKSVX5JTFI53/Spruce397.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Now, I burnish it with a 3M abrasive pad, so when someone takes a peek, it looks nice ‘n pretty. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014035813-5VOSATSIR0OBU2UILCDV/Spruce398.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly You should have 4 nice flat pieces, ready for insertion. I use plenty of “guitar assembly grease” too, seen here. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014035874-N0Y49ZS6QQIGSB1GZXX4/Spruce399.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Now place them in the cavities, no adhesive required. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014036083-9T62SJLFZT3OY0RJZNXD/Spruce400.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly I cut a strip 1 ½ by whatever the width of the roll of copper I currently have is, flatten and burnish, and spray the back with 3M-77 adhesive. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014036205-26OSP8VO2THDW2IO3AAE/Spruce401.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Now I carefully (it’s sticky as heck) thread the copper around the edge of the cavity. I press it firmly against the sides, first with my fingers, then do the corners with a hard tool. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014036265-PWQ5SR8EB3138SSX84ZW/Spruce402.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Now cut a few ¾ inch strips. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014036405-1ZVYYHLYY5MF0KYXA0MP/Spruce403.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Press ‘em with the socket, burnish ‘em with the 3M pad, spray the back, and thread ‘em around the cavities. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014037061-U1HJ38MSNFPY9SRKLQHQ/Spruce404.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014037312-3URNV5BPLCHDZW8H3GM8/Spruce405.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly I begin soldering in the electronics cavity. IMPORTANT - quick fast heat here. The back of the guitar is only about 1/8th inch away. Go nuts with the solder gun, and you will also go nuts when you flip it over only to discover burnt, bubbled lacquer. So small dots about an inch apart, and be quick about it. If it doesn’t catch the first time, move on. Do another section and return when it has completely cooled. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014037372-A5WT82VCDQX2CTUBF9W1/Spruce406.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Go all the way around. I add the little tab to make solid secure ground contact with the pickguard shield. I’ll trim it later. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014037638-VIQ0642CLJXPZ3UUXSDU/Spruce407.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014037744-CNILCN1LFBXY8MQADN4G/Spruce408.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Then I go back with an awl and open the wiring access holes, one through to the spring cavity, and the other to the jack plate cavity. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014037971-FRU7TMUUNS9ROGBMON6T/Spruce409.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly It is now a matter of assembling the parts. I begin with the Jack plate, thread the wires through the hole into the electronics cavity. I do not shield the Jack rout. It’s not necessary. Spiraling the wires as seen here accomplishes the same thing as using a shielded wire. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014038047-KQFKL4G335ZFAGFI2SZJ/Spruce410.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly I take an awl and locate the start point for the screw. Remember, it’s recessed and I don’t want the countersunk screw off center shoving the plate into the edge of the recess… crack!!!! BTW, I forgot to photograph soldering the pickguard and related electronics, but I did that too. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014038148-TAHEJY6FGTFYOL24NGT3/Spruce411.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly I’ll run in a screw or 2 to secure the location of the pickguard, then place the tremolo to be certain the “dimples” I cut earlier still bring everything into alignment. If good, drill the pilot holes, and countersink them slightly to keep the lacquer from chipping. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014038416-XD4AJB1KMZDA0ALRNJOG/Spruce412.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014029226-2HWHPNYGHVJ6OAIADF61/Spruce363.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly The little block is a piece of MDF I cut precisely square so the smooth bottom would ride the bottom of the neck pocket, and the edge with sandpaper attached would cut the width exactly at 90 degrees. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014039217-O2KMESVMJO0RE2GJBIRC/Spruce419.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly It’s finally time to string er up and convert it from a collection of parts, into a musical instrument. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014039279-Y0A9YRWZZ0X8OKXZ1SVJ/Spruce420.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly First thing I do is check the relief at the low frets. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014040238-PQG8ITPNPL1O6FZNEV3C/Spruce421.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly And check again. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014038742-GLSRGPEH0KAQW4QLP1PS/Spruce415.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly More details. Those cheap plastic parts, even on the 6000 masterbuilts just blow my mind. So the switch tip, with sharp mold lines gets worked. I put a dab of CA on it to hold the tip, then chuck it into a drill. I then hold it against some 320 grit, and while it’s spinning and watch until the casting lines are gone. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014038889-W44ZGQ7NOCBL0OFBZXVV/Spruce416.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly I then move up to 800 grit and continue until it has a nice matte sheen. Once ready, I’ll step over to the buffing wheel, on slow, and polish it. It now looks like ivory. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014039061-SV1JHC3X9UMTJS8VUR5X/Spruce418.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly I normally remove the tip from the Tremolo arm too, but this is a Wilkinson Vintage, and it doesn’t seem to want to come off, so I’m not going to force it. Protect the arm so the sand paper doesn’t scratch it, then sand by hand, same grits, then polish. And ivory again. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014038957-E3D7SB99T89IFE29O8VU/Spruce417.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Now… I guess I’ll use D’Addario 11’s. String ‘er up. Want me to show ya that too? Nah… I didn’t think so. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014029796-U4MJNCQH4WLRX76BEZ2D/Spruce368.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly And I mark the back of the neck plate. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014028880-SZ78MM8IDPCG2KRFZXGR/Spruce359.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly I’ll now check the neck pocket fit. Since I made the body while the neck was being made by Tommy (USACG) I couldn’t do this until after the fact. Necks can vary by as much as a 1/16th of an inch. But here it’s damn close, but the corner radius is different. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014029014-JMGZLC5BXX776TYGB2JN/Spruce361.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly So I Dremel it… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014029159-EMVCULMRWMC5CKQ9BTYN/Spruce362.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly and sand the edges. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014029288-040NZCKJV9R5UD3KR8TF/Spruce364.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly I also sand any accumulated crud, lacquer, whatever, from the neck pocket. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014029505-0D2ZEU5V99HRJ18ZZLXE/Spruce365.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly I then apply a liberal coat of paste wax to the neck and neck pocket walls. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586910927053-YCT8L4SIBUZTWO70YY9W/Spruce366.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Then slip it in. That is what a neck pocket and neck should look like. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014029633-KLIROQF81JOT7MM9W67M/Spruce367.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Now’s the time for any commemorative notations. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014040503-2JRMRNM2HWL6H6A4OEMO/Spruce422.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly I now cut each slot to bring the action down to something close to playable. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014030552-ZY8F7A8W4VTGM5ONDWI0/Spruce369.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Add a bit of bee’s wax, and carefully run the screws in. As the heads come into contact with the neck plate, I watch carefully and gradually work the screws in, allowing them to work against each other, so they will seat perfectly center. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014040632-THK7STZPTSHZU5GSB0TP/Spruce423.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Now I’ll get the saddles dialed in, adjusting each until the action at the 15th is about 1/16 inch. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014040895-4UMKT35LN6DOSN94NAML/Spruce424.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly I’ll also get the intonation approximated. Now, just to be certain, I’ll fret the G 3rd at the 1st and 20th fret and check the clearance around the 7th or so, it should be a few thousandths, about the thickness of a business card. If not, adjust the truss rod, about 1/8th turn at a time. Now it’s a matter of going back and forth between the nut and the bridge, to get low action. Once I can play it with minimal buzzing at the height, I’ll raise it to real world action and call it done. Almost… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586913506379-6BMA5LUZH89JSB18IP4S/Spruce425.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly I tune ‘er up. Stretch the strings. Retune. Let ‘er sit. Retune. Then pick a string open. And at the 12th fret. And check the tuner, if flat, move the bridge toward the neck. If sharp, move it away. Retune, check again. And adjust accordingly. Do that on all strings. Check the tuner to ensure the note played on an open string is harmonious with the same note played at the 12th. I play the harmonics of the open notes at the 7th fret and again at the 19th. If it works, it’s good to go. Then I allow the guitar to sit at least a day, several if possible, to give the wood a chance to get acclimated to the tension of being under pressure. Then I’ll repeat the entire setup, fine tuning as I go. Ain’t no Pleck ever came back the next day and double checked. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586868219358-SXRS3J1KEP9FLEKQCRTG/111.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Just a touch on each end of the slot, about at the location of the 2nd and 5th strings, and run a small line between them. That’s it. Slip the nut into the slot, clean any ooze that may squeeze out, and tune ‘er up. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586868219692-9XOUMLW1JZ42KNGJIWF5/112.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly For those arguing that a nut’s gotta be solid to make for “best” tone, get outta here. Tone schmone. The nut only comes into play tone wise on 6 notes. Every other note on the guitar has a finger and fret, or a slide, or a capo between the note and the nut. So if you have good nut material, and a lot of the junk too, you will be fine, and the nut can be removed with a mild tap to one end. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586868220107-N23M9RCLFTDQOKK827G9/114.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Just a bit more finishing, then I’ll prep her for her travel to her new life. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586868218947-MKSFOBK47X9GZU03APBR/108.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Once the guitar is properly setup, the nut slots will be way too deep. They should not cradle the string any more than ½ the diameter of the string. After I’m happy with the playability, I remove the nut (it has not been glued yet). If the slots are very deep, I’ll return to the small disk sander to rough it down to final size. Then I sand the top with 600 grit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586868219008-40JUGFIX8E5CMHA0KMGF/109.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Then step over to the buffing machine and polish it (I forgot to take a pic). Once polished, I clean it thoroughly to remove any compound residue. Now, using my very exotic and expensive nut installation kit.. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586868219260-PVBXE3IFJO63ID3WGD4V/110.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly You don’t need to use the latest hyper strong adhesive to secure the nut. Someone, someday, might want to remove or replace it. I use wood glue, and a very small dab at that. I’ve had to reshape some necks and had to remove the old nuts. They were glued in with epoxy or CA, whatever it was, I darn near had to destroy the nut slot to get them out. That’s ridiculous. Wood glue is fine. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014041187-R63DU8S4KLT30IWDJ1RM/Spruce427.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly And this baby is done. That’s how I do it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014041391-C3GSZ36SK8QX9FJT1OLD/Spruce428.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014041126-76JK3G80N6NMXDSHP30A/Spruce426.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014041604-F5FI1M8YAB7SPOBWX6LX/Spruce430.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014041788-RQL4HLAZ3I3XAQOK36C2/Spruce431.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586913993470-UY2TUF5PAY7C4PBUO998/Spruce432.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014041461-56UYR8T7QAQRBDFBN0T9/Spruce429.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014042842-RR1HI5Z3PHYXGWX664WP/Spruce433.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014043664-M6KM6EYVV0RXLXWDASAZ/Spruce439.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014043140-6G2DXAKSUUSR9LICI2UY/Spruce435.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014043140-C0VDOR38XYHYX7P088EQ/Spruce436.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014043471-ZRC17C1OA18IA0KHTPJ6/Spruce437.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014043444-DM5WFMSBY4HTJGHNSVST/Spruce438.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014042873-RAJY7XDYNFLJXFAHB5E0/Spruce434.jpg Part 6 Final Assembly Click here to return to Builds https://www.ronkirn.com/blog daily 0.75 2017-07-28 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1587062187024-AJAQH9AIL6I222ADGBIB/Kirn-1.jpeg Ron Kirn Talks https://www.ronkirn.com/blog/2017/6/23/testing-blog monthly 0.5 2017-06-23 https://www.ronkirn.com/around-the-shop daily 0.75 2020-04-17 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1502034126199-DHR03BUMDLE5BO3BQPQB/DSC_3691.jpg Around the Shop https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1502034126199-DHR03BUMDLE5BO3BQPQB/DSC_3691.jpg Around the Shop https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1502033904393-6M8KVSSXK9MBNP4BFUV2/DSC_6578.JPG Around the Shop https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1502034094974-TXT1F0J2ZCKI5SUCGQ2I/DSC_3711.jpg Around the Shop https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1502034226404-611LURXICHRZ1DEODI73/DSC_2131.jpg Around the Shop 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Gallery - Thin Line https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1587157234095-DF6MY9319KHOHAGKJAE7/vilniusvamp01.JPG T Type Gallery - Vilnius Vamp https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1587138225399-28SE0QW1IIOKLLE513O4/rufus02.jpg T Type Gallery https://www.ronkirn.com/ssb-part2 daily 0.75 2020-04-17 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374239172358-T518BWDYN4O8SFRQBVJ4/2strattute86.jpg SSB Part2 It’s time for Latex world. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374239172352-JDG358PQTEEF36W3LNJR/2strattute87.jpg SSB Part2 I can’t stop to show the steps because this is an alcohol based dye, and dries at light speed, so there isn’t time to clean hands, find camera, focus, shoot, and resume. By that time the stuff’s dry and streaks would happen. But I stain the wood, while you can tint the lacquer (I do that too) by staining the wood first, the grain really pops out. So yellow on top, red on the mahogany on back. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374239172699-NK57IIE3FKSPFM08X89J/2strattute88.jpg SSB Part2 The red doesn’t streak like the yellow does. This is Sherwin Williams Universal Dye, an Acid dye, we think. Don’t get it on ya. It only comes off via abrasion. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374239172718-KDLF0DQOENQ02YIZMYQG/2strattute89.jpg SSB Part2 And the yellow side. Looks pretty darn yeller don’t it? So I take a clean paper towel, soaked with alcohol and wipe it down, a few times.. this reduces the intensity by allowing the color to be absorbed into the wood. Oh, dye vs. stain…. Dye soaks into the surface. The wood is now what ever color you dyed it. Stain lays on the top, kinda like a thin paint. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374239173028-0P7VRMB2P80K85CWD8IV/2strattute90.jpg SSB Part2 So I wash it down a couple of times, and let it dry to analyze the shade. Then I’ll lightly sand. What this does is take away some of the “high” spots, which leaves the lower areas really intense. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374239172545-3U5CRDONY9IU8IR51MCX/2strattute91.jpg SSB Part2 She’s now ready to get dressed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169029466-VIJLZSMEXB3YX5HR5SWN/2strattute92.jpg SSB Part2 Allow it to dry over night to be certain all the alcohol has evaporated, then I shoot it, front and back with a few coats of a clear, very clear, sealer. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169029749-4RNNBVUU8F5X2AY01YDO/2strattute93.jpg SSB Part2 I’ll give it a few coats, then a good sanding with 220. Maybe a few more coats, then it hangs for a few days. FYI, I rarely use grain filler. I'll apply the sealer, sand most off and recoat, and it's ready for lacquer. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169030073-H0ME18RQS2WZ3XCZ3BZP/2strattute94.jpg SSB Part2 Ok so I have a coat of sealer on ‘er. I keep applying coats until I have a completely sealed surface. I watch the light’s reflection as I spray, watching for small points where the coat doesn’t cover minute grain irregularities. If a few show, I’ll touch them with a needle to release any trapped air while the coat is very wet. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169030605-ZCAKGKJ68H816MQ627AA/2strattute95.jpg SSB Part2 Once I see complete coverage, I allow it to dry thoroughly. By thoroughly I mean is has to be able to “powder” when sanded. Many sealers will feel quite dry after a few hours, but try to sand it and it “loads up”. This means the particles of the finish removed are still sticky enough to bind together, leaving “globs" of finish stuck in the sandpaper. Imagine sanding old chewing gum. It just does not work. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169030531-AACGHF5VQTC9BB2UK4CZ/2strattute96.jpg SSB Part2 After sanding.. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169030879-2IE78CTMBLDDNIEPIK8U/2strattute97.jpg SSB Part2 And more sanding. I now give it a good sanding with 320. This is to ensure adhesion between the lacquer and the sealer. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169030881-C4PNIFJTCFNL3VL37E3K/2strattute98.jpg SSB Part2 And it’s time to begin. First I give the whole body a coat of clear lacquer, then begin with the edge by shooting a dark coat. Being careful to direct the overspray away from the center of the body. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169031141-X2KU6UW51C3AN1KY6TIB/2strattute99.jpg SSB Part2 I have seen many get carried away, trying to get full coverage with the first coat….not good. It’s a sure way to develop runs. Runs + Transparent colored lacquer = major problem. Take it slow and easy. Adding additional color only after the last coat has “flashed”. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169031203-OBW3XBGOZAN5LKHKRK6U/2strattute100.jpg SSB Part2 And finally. Every few coats of color, I will give the whole surface a coat of clear. What this does is melt any overspray into the clear giving a gradual transition from the center yellow, to the dark edge. If you notice most ‘bursts have a very abrupt transition, giving them a “mechanical” appearance, the method I use makes for a very gradual flow from one shade to the next. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169081831-BNRUM7AG48K42GXCYJSQ/2strattute101.jpg SSB Part2 Now, I’ll change color to more red. Even though the previous shots looked red, they were a very dark brown, the lights just punched through.This shade is much more red. I’m using an automotive detail spray gun, it holds about 6 ounces, in that I will put about 10 drops of red and one of brown Sherwin Williams Universal dye. And I continue with the previous technique. A thin coat of color, a coat of clear. Allow it to flash and repeat allowing the tint to gradually build up to the intensity I’m looking for. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169081801-QMDYPY1KTR0RKD4QILD5/2strattute102.jpg SSB Part2 At this point I will begin tinting the edge of the back. I haven’t yet because I wanted to get the top’s veneer edge to closely approximate the density of the mahogany. Now I’ll give it a coat every time I do the top. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169180405-B1B0X1JPQ7V6O7X95KEC/2strattute103.jpg SSB Part2 I also give it a coat of clear to melt the overspray into the previously applied lacquer. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169180433-ZDWUQ6LVLWA43Y3F76RJ/2strattute104.jpg SSB Part2 And continuing with the top, working the tint looking for a specific look. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169180744-DXZZVIOZBM8RXRJ82TKK/2strattute105.jpg SSB Part2 You may notice, the center looks a touch pink at this stage. Ain’t no biggie, don’t sweat it. It’s mainly the lights, which seems to exaggerate Red. But I continue, possibly 10 to 20 times, to get the correct intensity. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169180779-K7N56JVPNCJQDEIXGLFS/2strattute106.jpg SSB Part2 Again, watching reflected light, to verify lacquer coverage. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177485253-R63S4BEJCWZHUSZK93NF/2strattute107.jpg SSB Part2 And this is what she looks like at this point. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169181293-LJINTSK3D0HS7D15LWIG/2strattute108.jpg SSB Part2 Here I have given it a coat of amber to bring the slight red hue back under control and give the whole thing a warmer appearance. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169181572-JZ4WIP7CXQIAONAGD6R9/2strattute109.jpg SSB Part2 Make use of the reflected light. It makes applying the finish a lot easier, and as you near completing the final coats, the wetter you can apply them, the easier the wet sanding will be. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169181805-8MUCD7X419WGMEIXN7F7/2strattute110.jpg SSB Part2 Smoother.. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177722094-NKZ4Q3TZ3TTTL2U9HZGM/2strattute111.jpg SSB Part2 After the color is completed, I give the body about 5 good wet coats of clear... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177741729-FO01Q5V1G23OP3U2N4OO/2strattute112.jpg SSB Part2 allowing about 20 – 40 minutes between coats. Now, I allow it to dry for a few days before giving it an interim sanding. And the last of the clear coats… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177742054-M1A8WSBBXO7AHYZAYAMV/2strattute113.jpg SSB Part2 I’m into the boring part. Sand and squirt. I have let the body sit for a few days so the lacquer would harden enough to sand without “loading up” the paper. So, I sand… with 320.. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177742309-88CVLRLBQ34FYG7N8L9Z/2strattute114.jpg SSB Part2 and sand... sand thoroughly. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177742646-I526OKUGH1ZEQRWAAVE6/2strattute115.jpg SSB Part2 Then, dust and check for anything I missed. You can barely see at the edge an area that has not been touched by the sandpaper. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177742746-VJS74OHZVDYL3HYBR09Y/2strattute116.jpg SSB Part2 And here too. While not hyper important, getting it all flat now makes the final sanding much easier. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177743141-ZLENV04H41GQPR7C1G9O/2strattute117.jpg SSB Part2 Now simply go over any areas that need further attention, getting them all “blocked out”... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177743579-YVKAKMZV63VVQ39031FH/2strattute118.jpg SSB Part2 ..sanding with a flat, very flat sanding block until the entire surface is evenly matte. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177743851-P016BCQHVOF272SCV8JW/2strattute119.jpg SSB Part2 And the front. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177744139-AJV8AHID8HD2CQSICZAS/2strattute120.jpg SSB Part2 Now, I begin spraying wet coats of lacquer. I’ll spray several, wait a while, spray a few more, until I have about 5 good coats. Then I let it dry and harden for a day, check for coverage, and if any is needed, I’ll give it a few more coats, checking the overhead lighting’s reflections to verify the coat. After which, it hangs for a few weeks. Sorry I don’t make the rules. This is the same kinda stuff Leo used 50 years ago, and he had to let ‘em hang for a few weeks too. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374247066835-M9Q7FTR8ZRMBK182LSDX/2continue.jpg SSB Part2 To continue to Part 3 The Neck Choose: Slide show viewing or Single Page https://www.ronkirn.com/ssb-part3 daily 0.75 2020-04-17 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177744526-ZPI97JXPD08TDZWCD8Z7/2strattute122.jpg SSB Part3 I jumped on finishing the neck with out thinking. My wife will kindly remind ya, that’s not at all uncommon for me. So she’s all lacquered and ready for the fret leveling wet sanding and polishing. This is what she looks like before the final assault. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177744793-4R94809WQ11Q809U2TMA/2strattute123.jpg SSB Part3 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177744946-NW1VTM1ILSEX4BIRQIMM/2strattute124.jpg SSB Part3 First thing, I remove the lacquer build-up from the frets. The tool is a screwdriver I reshaped the tip to cradle the fret, as I scrape the soft lacquer from the fret. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177745156-HU77ZTEFQCMUTGTC6NH3/2strattute125.jpg SSB Part3 I use the fingerboard protector to prevent the inevitable slip. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177745256-TRJ3H4S1DKU7GVX4WRO7/2strattute126.jpg SSB Part3 Once the majority is removed, I go back gently scraping each edge of the fret. I don’t have to be NASA clean room certified here, the fret leveling, and polishing will remove the remaining residue. Some will not remove the lacquer at all, but allow the fret leveling to “clean” the fret. I do not, because I feel that allows the lacquer to remain far too high up the edge of the fret. It will eventually separate, chip, and look rather messy. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177745637-7H19P5EZ0J1HNPL805QB/2strattute127.jpg SSB Part3 Now I want to adjust the truss rod to bring the neck to as level a state as possible. I always set the truss rod so the tension is pulling the neck to the correct setting as opposed to releasing the tension to do the same. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177745511-YOX3IDJM8BSRUPU7OVZN/2strattute128.jpg SSB Part3 Using a straight edge, I check to see which way to go. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177745875-3JL3TFE3QIQZC5EDLX0V/2strattute129.jpg SSB Part3 Be certain to position the straight edge down the center of the fingerboard, the radius can throw ya wayyyyyy off. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177745987-7BWNMIYWYB4BFAE2TZ4O/2strattute130.jpg SSB Part3 And continue adjusting the truss rod until it is as level as possible. You almost certainly will not be able to get it “dead” level, that’s why we do the fret leveling. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177746133-SSSFIXI2594AA3UFFWBG/2strattute131.jpg SSB Part3 If the last handful of frets fall away, this is not a problem. The trend today is to have the last several frets lower than the others to facilitate modern playing styles. (The tape is to hold the straight edge in place, darn near impossible to do when a camera is occupying one of my two hands.) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177746339-66NRSUOVAHKJY3A0SKUO/2strattute132.jpg SSB Part3 Now secure the neck whatever method you choose, I run a wood screw through one of the tuner holes into the workbench after I have pressed the heel into a neck pocket and pulled it tight. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177746428-QJPE5WVS5646HNK2KTZO/2strattute133.jpg SSB Part3 Now, I recommend taking a marker, and coloring each fret. This makes seeing what you are doing much easier, and you can fine tune your truss rod leveling. Place your leveling tool on the fingerboard and give it a shove, remove and check the marked frets. If the end frets have been scraped and the middle ones not, then tighten the truss rod a touch and repeat. Continue until the frets toward the center of the fingerboard are being “hit” too. Now re-coat all the frets with the marker, and recheck. If the majority of the frets show exposed metal from the fret leveling tool, you are ready to rock. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374182613061-332SE2DX9QG0XDQNDMHH/2strattute134.jpg SSB Part3 Now using your fret leveling tool and begin scrubbing the frets. I use relatively short circular strokes allowing the tool to roll with the fingerboard radius. You will see the tops of the frets being exposed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177746793-WFUV7Q8P6PM1297K6MHP/2strattute135.jpg SSB Part3 How to make a leveling tool: Use any good flat material such as Corian, plexi-glass (1/2 inch thick) or MDF, cut a strip 2” wide by 18” long. Then cut a second similar strip. Glue, screw, or whatever it to the first in a “T” configuration to make it rigid. Now check it with something of known flatness. A cast Iron table saw table is perfect, but a piece of glass on a flat surface works too. Using spray glue, 3M-77 is what I use, glue a sheet of sand paper to the flat surface. Now take the “T” shaped tool you have made, and run the working surface across the sandpaper until the entire surface has been sanded. Then glue a strip of something like 180 grit wet or dry paper to the tool and you are ready. My tool is a machined piece of steel, with 180 grit shop cloth 3M-77ed to the working edge. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177747058-6C4QCMZF33S9YM1DAH19/2strattute136.jpg SSB Part3 This is what you are looking for. If your neck has the last several frets falling away, that is lower than the rest of the fingerboard, take your fret leveling tool, press down on and over those last few frets from about the 17th on, and level those. This will create a natural incline up to the 16th and lower. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177747115-BAB9A3XARMR9CGMJ7D84/2strattute137.jpg SSB Part3 Once the frets are level, let’s crown ‘em. A crowning file is one tool you cannot make, ya cannot find something else and make do, you gotta go buy one, so do it. Watching the marks left by the sandpaper on the leveling tool, crown the frets. Rocking the file to allow for the radius of the board. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374177747346-N0NPQRYX0VI6QOOGTU6X/2strattute138.jpg SSB Part3 If you’re good, or crazy, I’m not sure.. you can do it like in the previous photo, risking scratching the fingerboard, or you can use a protector, as seen here. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184039603-3D30UU42QSAMFBUK30PA/2strattute139.jpg SSB Part3 Continue on each fret until the scratches from the fret leveling tool are ALMOST gone. Just a faint hint should remain. Do all the frets the same way. They should all look like this. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184039575-AFZCESGIEUY3UKZNGZS7/2strattute140.jpg SSB Part3 I make a habit of saving used sandpaper from about 300 grit to 500, I use it to rough polish the frets. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184039964-9JU1D9UC0HS3WW43QZH4/2strattute141.jpg SSB Part3 I cut ‘em in to small pieces, and give each fret a good going over, watching the reflected light off the crown to see when all the tooling marks are gone. (The tape is to hold the protector down while I took the photo with the hand that would normally hold the protector… this stuff is complicated ain’t it?) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184039999-DVALLH9676E9KKM9LCEK/2strattute142.jpg SSB Part3 Once that is done, I move on to wet sanding the neck. I use 800 grit here with mineral spirits as a wetting agent and a small, about 1 ½ inch square block. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1580223092190-BAMLM3IYQ4ONMY9H8W2I/2strattute143.jpg SSB Part3 I begin on the face of the headstock. Wet it with your wetting agent of choice and give ‘er a go. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1580223150280-03STO0XAUGYMVUK3VG95/2strattute144.jpg SSB Part3 As you’re wet sanding, keep checking, to see the progress. Here you can see some areas are still glossy, the sand paper hasn’t broken the glaze yet. You will want to continue, sanding the entire surface, even what does look adequately sanded. You want to bring the entire surface down to the part that has not been touched. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1580223179417-XGN6YKG5LB85FE79H4YY/2strattute145.jpg SSB Part3 Here you see a correctly sanded surface. It is not necessary to begin with 300, then advance to 400, then 500, 600, 800, 1000, 2000, 2,000,000… grit. Once you have sanded to around 800 that’s fine. I usually start with 600, follow up with 800 and begin polishing. All the higher grits do is make polishing go a bit faster, at the expense of additional sanding, so you get to decide, more sanding, or more polishing. A finer grit paper will NOT guarantee a shinier gloss. That is accomplished with the polishing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184040840-1UXIWWVFTMRTUYNZS9UB/2strattute146.jpg SSB Part3 Compound curves and rounded surfaces can be done by hand holding the paper. On the back of the neck, since it’s not a compound curve, I use the block again to “level” any surface ”Orange peel”. Then I’ll go over it all by hand, with 600 grit using very small circular motions, this gives the back the patina of years of playing. Once the areas of the neck that get polished are done, I give it a coat of good quality wax. That way the neck feels as smooth as any well played instrument. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1580223455461-7QZOPZC40GF0S4YZTVHI/2strattute147.jpg SSB Part3 I hold it up in the light to see that there are no spots that have been missed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1580223415239-9MQF5PTMZH8NQO2SJQGU/2strattute148.jpg SSB Part3 Now that the neck is all sanded, and ready to polish, I mask off the body of the neck, because I do not want that part polished. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1580223276924-CM832Y5CHOSXFTI4PJS8/2strattute149.jpg SSB Part3 The matte surface that the sanding leaves the feel much more like a well played neck than the sprayed satin finish used by most manufacturers. Sure I could do it that way, but the satin finish is achieved by introducing additives to the lacquer... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184041525-7YBEYZDN65FPWJU3YH3G/2strattute150.jpg SSB Part3 ... since I have made every effort to use the same lacquers used in the 50’s and 60’s I won’t be pouring additives into it. The sanding produces a vastly superior surface anyway. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1580223322374-I2X0EQ504FJQ2CLRZDXM/2strattute151.jpg SSB Part3 Once the masking is complete, I charge the buffing wheel with polishing compound, and get to it. If using any power buffing machine, you must be aware of heat buildup. The lacquer will soften and the buffing wheel will remove it in a heart beat so a balance between speed, pressure applied and how long you work a specific area is important. This is one of those “feel” things you just gotta get in there and do to learn. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184041775-FR8C6HKYIKT18TGA2WRD/2strattute152.jpg SSB Part3 I just stay with it, constantly checking as I go until its as glossy as can be. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184042074-X439PTMUALN39YN1KHPN/2strattute153.jpg SSB Part3 I do the same on the heel, then re mask and do the edge of the heel. Once that’s done I begin polishing the frets, I use several methods, depending on the neck, here I’m going over each with a cleaner car wax. It’s perfect because it will polish the fret and clean any residue from the base of the fret. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184042687-S9YH9VLGVZN8GC8OCZHJ/2strattute154.jpg SSB Part3 After the frets are polished, I’ll examine each closely and, using my scraper, remove any lacquer, that I may have missed. Then re-polish those frets. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184043180-SSY8F4RCGM1XLRBRCED0/2strattute155.jpg SSB Part3 At this point I’ll go over the neck closely, checking the frets, the fret ends, and the fingerboard edge; everything should be baby butt smooth. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184043481-N1D1LSYGWDUU4DPKY53H/2strattute156.jpg SSB Part3 Then I give it a good coat of a quality carnauba based wax. The neck, will now have an organic feel, almost like it’s alive. Remember the skin on Betty Lou, the cheerleader when you played High School Football. That’s the sensation ya get. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1580223533313-4FIJP6O31GMIR3O26FIL/2strattute157.jpg SSB Part3 Next phase, assembly. The keys, nut and retainer is all that’s left. But the Sperzel keys have a 5/32 inch pin, I’ll be drilling a 7/32 hole, that doesn’t leave a lot of “wiggle” room, so accuracy is important. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184044363-KSSH79UDOHR9MWCLSPSM/2strattute158.jpg SSB Part3 First I ream the holes to clear out the lacquer buildup, I use a rotary file so there’s no chance of it grabbing and splitting the head. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184044347-30GBEK7X1IZI87UN2S7B/2strattute159.jpg SSB Part3 Once the holes are clear, I insert a key and give it a light tap to make an impression where the pin goes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1580223571300-2Y1XCDF20PW3CCPENEWK/2strattute160.jpg SSB Part3 I do this in each of the 6 holes, then using an awl, mark the 1st and 6th. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184045111-D46NMVVZCBCQ8O58BVVZ/2strattute161.jpg SSB Part3 I want to be certain all the holes are in line, remember I only have 1/64th of wiggle room. I take a straightedge and align it between the two all points. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184045877-59MMTYHH856LMA8VW3QO/2strattute162.jpg SSB Part3 I mark each location to insure they are straight relative to each other. I then take a caliper, dividers, or any precision instrument, and mark the distance from the hole edge to the location of the pin hole. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184046289-X6CIDIHUL39TC8VKML22/2strattute163.jpg SSB Part3 Mark each with an awl… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1580223599352-EH9HRVAKG509316JBDGL/2strattute164.jpg SSB Part3 ..and drill away. Oh, don’t go through. This may seem a bit tedious but it gets the job done correctly. Sure Sperzel gives a cardboard template but it’s not exactly accurate. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1580223622880-D854D91ECIPHLGHVQAEC/2strattute165.jpg SSB Part3 It’s just a matter of pressing them in the respective holes and tightening the Ferrules. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1580223694009-ESCWR2D6BWOFZXBO31HH/2strattute166.jpg SSB Part3 Not too shabby. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184047813-TH2GTBMT8UK007YQQ6F9/2strattute167.jpg SSB Part3 The nut slot needs to be cleared of any accumulated lacquer. I made a tool just to do this by grinding a sharp edge on the end of a file, it scrapes the lacquer from the floor and the sides quite precisely. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184048116-XN8T4FS0UE4CVO7U1LUT/2strattute168.jpg SSB Part3 Once that’s done, I take the nut, bone in this case, and lap it on a flat surface to get the thickness down to the correct size. Care must be taken, because it’s easy to apply more pressure on one end, with the resulting nut being thicker at one end than the other. Continue until it’s a snug fit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184048391-1EW1KKDKEXL1L7FL03UB/2strattute169.jpg SSB Part3 Once it’s seated firmly in the slot, I take a pencil and mark a rough line indicating the top of the nut. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184048671-DDOSZNDEQ4RF5UQFDQC1/2strattute170.jpg SSB Part3 Then over to the disk sander and a preliminary shaping, including the ends. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184048933-ZPESOE77E28PVAOBPJ95/2strattute171.jpg SSB Part3 Now it looks about like a nut should. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184049185-GEHVP0XH9CENLIAGKI2I/2strattute172.jpg SSB Part3 Now I take a nut slotting file and rough in the 1st and 6th string slots. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184049309-XRNC9ZKWS7ELDZJG7Q09/2strattute173.jpg SSB Part3 This is one tool I find indispensable. The location of the strings should not be exactly symmetrical, because they are different sizes, I’m betting you noticed. I use an Xacto knife with the tip of the blade ground to etch each string location. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184049520-DEW712WZA8PTSFS6LKTT/2strattute174.jpg SSB Part3 Then I highlight the marks with a pencil’s graphite. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184049615-GVMA71I0A6J2OBNOQNKS/2strattute175.jpg SSB Part3 And using the appropriate slot file, make a preliminary slot for each string. The nut will not be finished until I do the setup, at that time I will cut the slots to the correct depth, then remove any unnecessary height, and polish it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1580223728636-7R20RHIZTAZR44P49ABD/2strattute176.jpg SSB Part3 I now take a piece of string, this is the Stewart MacDonald guitar string retainer placement string, only $32.50 a foot, and wrap it around the 1st and 2nd key posts and across the nut to indicate the location of those 2 respective strings. Place the retainer on the strings, and mark the location of the pilot hole for the screw. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374184049960-RY6RK0F8F0K2UUWP4K2L/2strattute177.jpg SSB Part3 Drill the pilot hole, and coat the screw in bee’s wax, a good idea for any screw you will be running into hardwood. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374247198637-9J9THDXOSJSLN94U5JV3/3continue.jpg SSB Part3 To continue to Part 4 Pickguard & Electronics Choose: Slide show viewing or Single Page https://www.ronkirn.com/ssb-part4 daily 0.75 2020-04-17 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193228880-K70R7GWFJLEVPEDS326G/2strattute179.jpg SSB Part4 I make my own pickguards. Those available from the many manufacturers seem to vary considerably, even from the same supplier. This way, I can only get mad at my self. I take a piece of PG material, and trace the outline from a PG template, then cut it out on the band saw. My trusty Nikon was set on the wrong setting so you will have to imagine, tortoise shell plastic, MDF template, Sharpie marker, and my stubby fingers. I’ll use golf grip tape to double stick it to the template and step over to the drill press to drill the holes. Here the access for the pickup holes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193230459-VFMJ19MG2KUF9IOWOLGH/2strattute180.jpg SSB Part4 And here for all the screw holes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193230798-F6OTJHT12ZED52RY3WUW/2strattute181.jpg SSB Part4 Then over to the router table to circumnavigate the periphery of the pick guard with a straight edge bit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193232294-8ZR6HLHQCQ5U54TVDII3/2strattute182.jpg SSB Part4 That took about 5 minutes from plastic sheet to this. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193233828-Q8TA2NSM22GB5HDCM8L8/2strattute183.jpg SSB Part4 Now changing bit to a 3/8ths, simply because it will fit inside the ½ inch hole I have drilled, I cut the pickup holes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193234245-10XYA4WR2WDNDTWC2JFB/2strattute184.jpg SSB Part4 Almost a finished pickguard... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193234544-RYKW439IEZ286IBTRNC1/2strattute185.jpg SSB Part4 Now I take a piece of sandpaper and go around the edge to remove any of the “fuzzies” the routing left behind, because cutting the bevel requires a very flat surface, the plastic can throw things off. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193234811-WAVKOR14WNQ2MTLV30DN/2strattute186.jpg SSB Part4 Now I install a 45 degree bevel bit, and adjust it so I KNOW it’s too low, and make a test cut. Here you see the white has been exposed but very little of the black. I adjust it up just a touch, cutting and checking until I have it right. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193235345-0RWABWZN4T9DZ5BXO6KQ/2strattute188.jpg SSB Part4 I’ll go around several times, this gives the bit the chance to produce a smoother cut. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193235766-AVRQ2J0ROWZ58WYU1477/2strattute189.jpg SSB Part4 Perfect. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193236038-U8DSIOH88LB65ASUFDI7/2strattute190.jpg SSB Part4 Since all the holes are drilled, I whip out the Dremel with a modified base to cut the switch slot. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193236331-6CLW9KAXB5I61DFU7OOA/2strattute191.jpg SSB Part4 I mount the slot template in the existing switch screw holes, and lower the Dremel into the slot. The bit is a 1/16 D rasp. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193236621-MO2E1SBFRPZDASCCVVM7/2strattute192.jpg SSB Part4 The results. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193238068-OZ4ACYDUQ2XNIFI5K71Z/2strattute193.jpg SSB Part4 Now back to the drill press and countersink the screw holes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193238313-KOHJIUS9151KA0SGM271/2strattute194.jpg SSB Part4 I check to be certain I am deep enough. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193238719-C88UHHWCOBDJWYFWM2AD/2strattute195.jpg SSB Part4 And the little bugger is complete. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193239181-TH17RRESTCNPH3ESJKDI/2strattute196.jpg SSB Part4 Now we wire the thing, collecting all the goodies, let’s go. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193240704-WG61CR15TYGCFFJ3Z3DF/2strattute197.jpg SSB Part4 Some use plastic spacers under the pots, I do not. They can shrink over time causing the pots to come loose, I use real nuts. I know, it takes one to know one. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193242298-3UT964Z2N40N1U6YTEU2/2strattute198.jpg SSB Part4 I insert the pickup adjusting/mounting screws with the rubber spacer. I use silicone tubing, it doesn’t dry rot, and isn’t affected by whatever gets to the normal tubing and causes it to deteriorate. This stuff will be around for a while. Everything is just finger tight at this point, so I can get all the holes aligned and everything installed without forcing anything. I don’t like to see wrinkled shielding because something wasn’t right. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193242594-JV31JRXMVX0MS9RLWYCO/2strattute199.jpg SSB Part4 I now tap the screw holes in the pickup bobbins (camera failure again), mount them then tie the leads to keep things neat. I use linen string. Why linen, ‘cause it’s not poly, and the string looks much more tidy than the typical tape. I try to build my guitars so when the curiosity gets the better of the owner, and they open ‘er up, what they see of my attention causes a moment of respect... for the fact that it looks like it was assembled by someone that gives a hoot. And those are Curtis Novak’s Pickups, very, very, nice. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193242924-3QSWZXYGUTE1BTYAITRE/2strattute200.jpg SSB Part4 Now I continue the wiring… keeping all nice and neat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193243263-UT944JBVPC406TB2O6XV/2strattute201.jpg SSB Part4 I use an isolated ground through an audio grade capacitor. This dramatically reduces the hum and preserves the classic S sound. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193244798-TT8P9H3Q63BHMEBBH4SU/2strattute202.jpg SSB Part4 Completed, ready for the body. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374247261338-IJF2CH6XBZL7B979TC4M/4continue.jpg SSB Part4 To continue to Part 5 Body Shaping Choose: Slide show viewing or Single Page https://www.ronkirn.com/ssb-part5 daily 0.75 2020-04-17 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193246256-4GUSLOYNA7HJQZSNSANE/2strattute203.jpg SSB Part5 The BODY!! Oh yeah! That babe should be about ready…..let’s rock. This time, I’m using a power sander on a variable speed control to do the initial “break glaze” its 500 grit being used wet with water. This tales literally about 1 minute to do both sides. I only do this to break the glaze and allow the hand sanding to gain “purchase” much quicker. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374193247697-24FW43JLIXII2M86LZ9S/2strattute204.jpg SSB Part5 As you can see in this shot, the surface is darn near ready for polishing... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199937037-S5XUENZ7PPLDNTEI6B4J/2strattute205.jpg SSB Part5 ...but I’ll go over it by hand with 800 grit first. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199937095-TRKKHCOZ14JXXR29YXRL/2strattute206.jpg SSB Part5 As you're sanding, keep stopping, allowing the surface to dry thoroughly and looking at reflected light to find any “low” spots, they will be shiny. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199937422-BBX72PHU5IRXA6C3NFPR/2strattute207.jpg SSB Part5 As you’re looking for the low spots, they tend to be along the edge, they can be quickly removed by hand sanding, but doing so will result in a less than Plano-flat surface. If you continue using the block on those areas, your final gloss will be virtually mirror flat. To do concave curves, I made a slight rounded block, this one is made from Corian. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199937436-1IN505VHQSU41FUYXIW7/2strattute208.jpg SSB Part5 It follows the curve much easier than trying to “make do” with whatever you can find. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199937914-O8FPWB89YMC7YSCLW4B9/2strattute209.jpg SSB Part5 The results are spectacular. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199937907-1WTDRDZGCATG8QPIF6HC/2strattute210.jpg SSB Part5 Now the areas where a flat block just are not appropriate, I use my good ‘ol fingers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199938245-5499C791154E98ICLRXM/2strattute211.jpg SSB Part5 Once she’s all wet sanded, it’s time to choose one of many different ways to polish. For those long on elbow grease and short on bux, you can use plain old automotive cleaner car wax, it will do a super job too. Just rub the heck out of the body and you’re done. I use a little faster approach. First up is red rubbing compound. If you sanded to about 3000 grit wet or dry, you can skip this step, but this is a heck of a lot less fatiguing. This is available in a pint at your local auto parts store over by the finishing goodies, but I use it in the quart size squirt bottle. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199938899-TGTZWQLC8TV0O9317Y9K/2strattute212.jpg SSB Part5 I use a very “tactile” method of distributing the compound once it leaves the bottle, it takes me back to finger painting in kindergarten. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199938511-UUYGLOBF16UJVYNXRCJP/2strattute213.jpg SSB Part5 Then it's to the buffing wheel at about 700 rpm, and a gentle quick touch. This stuff will burn through faster ‘n you can say... um... "Dammmm I hate it when that happens.” You will notice the wheel shows red residue, that’s because I use a specific wheel for the specific compound, you don’t want to move to the next finer grade using the same wheel. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199938882-B4DH94AFCFQU70FVS75T/2strattute214.jpg SSB Part5 In a few minutes, literally, you have a semi buffed surface. All this is doing is removing the microscopic scratches left by the wet or dry paper. Now we move up to a finer polishing compound. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199939263-8CGBYIH0EOXTE77VSGGQ/2strattute215.jpg SSB Part5 The fine polishing compound is usually identified by a white color; here I'm using a compound stick, its compound suspended in a "wax" substrate. You simply "charge" the buffing wheel by holding the stick against it for a few seconds. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199939246-KEEJA7QI73SAF34VQ5VP/2strattute216.jpg SSB Part5 Here you can see the difference about 10 seconds makes between the red compound, and the white. Oh, at the auto parts store, next to the cans of red compound, you will see the white. This is the finer, roughly the equivalent of the compound stick I’m using here. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199939503-5QKTAE2OPRUKYL2FH1HC/2strattute217.jpg SSB Part5 Now, it’s simply a matter of buffing the entire surface. A word of caution for those venturing into this world for the first time. DO NOT buy a small polishing wheel for your Craftsman Grinder, it rotates at 3480 RPM or thereabouts and will burn the finish right off the body and take a bit of wood too, so fast you won’t believe it happened. You must use a relatively slow speed RPM to prevent learning that first unpleasant lesson. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199939632-17QPZORV0OCOQ56XKTGM/2strattute218.jpg SSB Part5 After the entire body is buffed, examine it carefully, making certain it is indeed done. Then you can now choose several other methods to finalize the polishing. Simply wax the body, it’ll look darn good, or use one of the many automotive glamour waxes to give it a wet appearance. Or, as I do, I move to an extremely fine polishing compound, roughly equivalent to 10 to 20,000 grit they tell me. It’s a super fine volcanic ash suspended in something wet (that’s the technical description) but it does put down a hellava shine. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199939882-OEIWXELASJU5PNUVIYWO/2strattute219.jpg SSB Part5 Again, I rely on my tactile method of application, you will notice its very wet and it only takes a few drops from the bottle. Interestingly it also smells a lot like burnt rock. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199939869-WX70A6I570SWCHNW86EK/2strattute220.jpg SSB Part5 And back to the buffing wheel. Once again, I have changed to the appropriate wheel for the compound. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199940262-5TZ245F8AL32A7RQ8L1N/2strattute221.jpg SSB Part5 Go all over the body once again, adding compound as necessary. And the results, is one shiny body. At this point, I’ll give the entire body a coat of a good wax. It simply adds a layer of protection as we enter the home stretch. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199940332-VTCY97JBXEMLT23OJHXP/2strattute222.jpg SSB Part5 At this point, I’ll fit the neck to the pocket. As I’m making the body, I keep things tight, knowing that as I add lacquer to the neck, it will get even tighter, therefore I’ll take a small block I have made... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199940588-N8QZV6Z5WR5PT4DZ6IYT/2strattute223.jpg SSB Part5 ...and remove lacquer buildup and a few thousandths from the inside edges of the neck pocket. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199940696-Q3EH9P8F0XTJW3FWA1MK/2strattute224.jpg SSB Part5 I will also remove any accumulated crud from the neck pocket. Here, the lacquer buildup. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199940902-48F2B4U3VEUSW2EAGPE3/2strattute225.jpg SSB Part5 This gives me a clean floor for the neck. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199941014-VMZCA4TNPQHNJ6CE3Z9O/2strattute226.jpg SSB Part5 Taking the Dremel, I’ll go at the lacquer on the walls to get a secure fit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199941207-BNHGMA69N2TFCFBH8RJT/2strattute227.jpg SSB Part5 And follow up by scraping any remaining funk into oblivion. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199941281-88LF3GMIIMC351H5MMW6/2strattute228.jpg SSB Part5 Because I know it’s snug, I give the walls a good coat of wax, Minwax Finishing wax here, but there are plenty of other brands available. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374199941475-DA47YXW3EPJSW09NQ7HO/2strattute229.jpg SSB Part5 Throw in the shim, I shim all my S-types, then it’s time to get serious. For those wondering why go to al the trouble of removing all the funk if I was going to shim, well, why not?? https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374247310721-SKABZQ744KAT0AW7YWFB/5continue.jpg SSB Part5 To continue to Part 6 Finishing Touches Choose: Slide show viewing or Single Page https://www.ronkirn.com/ssb-part6 daily 0.75 2020-04-17 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243293775-IOMU2GNYD2IBI3DKY8ML/2strattute230.jpg SSB Part6 Now I insert the neck, place the pickguard in position, then place the tremolo in the correct position. Measuring from the 12 fret, locate the first bridge 12 ¾", and that’ll be the location of the tremolo. Since the neck and pickguard are in place, I give it a good look to be certain everything looks correctly positioned. I use a 4 foot ruler to indicate the position of the strings and make any adjustments as necessary. Then mark the location of the posts for the Tremolo, here, the Wilkinson VS100. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243293166-NWEZ80CL5AR3GO1BEOQZ/2strattute231.jpg SSB Part6 Once the location is marked, over to the drill press. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243293500-Y9Z6NMWI98NXD3DJQTZN/2strattute232.jpg SSB Part6 The studs are driven into the body. To keep from buggering up anything, I run in a stainless bolt into the threads, then I can bang away all day without harming anything. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243293719-QOHZZ0KW4K1PADGVJ90W/2strattute233.jpg SSB Part6 Then a few whacks, and it’s in. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243293977-7SBMWNABM8DE0RI4K99V/2strattute234.jpg SSB Part6 Now, holding the tremolo in position, I flip the body. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243294081-AP6WO2D7PH8QA2PFNBBC/2strattute235.jpg SSB Part6 And place the trem cover in place, outlining 2 sides with tape. We’re moving quickly here because the tape’s adhesive and the lacquer do not get along. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243294268-DMGJ9C3T4LTR4B5GOMT4/2strattute236.jpg SSB Part6 Remove the cover to see if I guessed straight. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243294361-FHS33DBZBNCA245D37SZ/2strattute237.jpg SSB Part6 I did not, so I realign the tape to the trem rout. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243294583-GRMZGMR2D674UA07XV47/2strattute238.jpg SSB Part6 Now I replace the trem cover and outline the thing with the tape. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243294661-DGN4232V9MUNCP1PAEEE/2strattute239.jpg SSB Part6 Actually before I did this, I took my tremolo cover template and routed a test in a piece of scrap whatever was close enough to grab, that way everything is ready to roll as soon as possible. Remember, the tape + lacquer don't play well together. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243294844-VK2DEQ80N1432LJCU6MT/2strattute240.jpg SSB Part6 Now I align the template to the taped outline, it is not critical, there is more than enough “wiggle room”. Ya just want it close and straight. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243295718-IQFA0RYMXWV977ER9U40/2strattute241.jpg SSB Part6 Now I take the router and give the inside edge a little bite, to check depth. Lookin’ good. So I give ‘er a complete buzz. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243295077-NPUUTIGM8A9304VKTBPB/2strattute242.jpg SSB Part6 Before removing the template, check to be certain it fits correctly. Good to go. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243295358-VXKH25IAZ56PCW5DLTEG/2strattute243.jpg SSB Part6 And here’s what she looks like now. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243295670-ZI4U6180F3J55VCA8TDC/2strattute244.jpg SSB Part6 Now, since I’m on a roll, I move on to the neck plate. I rout a test in the scrap. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243295920-0HY8CYR78NFDWG2FD4A4/2strattute245.jpg SSB Part6 Then drop the plate in to be certain it fits. Note, I leave about .003 all the way around on this and the other recessed parts to give the body a bit of room to breathe, or move with contraction and expansion. I can put ‘em in there with .000 clearance, but if the body contracts any, CRACK, the lacquer is brittle and will not give. If anyone whines about how sloppy .003 is.. c’mon, get outta here. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243295945-QEIXPSE07CHCKENKLEO6/2strattute246.jpg SSB Part6 Now I place the neck plate in position, noting the screw holes, getting it as precise as I can. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243296344-1S6CTGZRWF2T7M3B826O/2strattute247.jpg SSB Part6 Then locate the template over the plate, leaving the inside margin equidistant and clamp it in position. And yes a side note: lacquer is brittle, so when you clamp the templates, do it with only enough pressure to secure the template, if you go torque crazy here, you will be refinishing the whole body. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243296405-IHSDZXGX21LHL4RGGBBA/2strattute248.jpg SSB Part6 Now I take the router and give the body a poke, to check depth. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243296649-LHA74VWN3BX0OPZ6G28U/2strattute249.jpg SSB Part6 Rockin’ so, buzz time again. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243296723-851VWFPOO81UCX3L89HU/2strattute250.jpg SSB Part6 Drop the plate in the hole to be certain it fits. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243296921-0MX2BE6GIGC0MB9JBWVR/2strattute251.jpg SSB Part6 Here she is complete with router fuzz. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243297022-Q2PAJ14JQA2H1DI9Y9PC/2strattute252.jpg SSB Part6 And after the number has been stamped. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243297574-AWW933DHTGLD91HUEEAE/2strattute253.jpg SSB Part6 So two down, one to go. The Jack plate presents a different collection of problems. The main one, no 2 are alike, and they are not symmetrical, so what that heck, let’s roll. First, do a test, checking the depth of cut, then the over all shape. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243297292-0EI220V5357WIT48P5KS/2strattute254.jpg SSB Part6 I have sat the piece in up side down, to get a preliminary assessment, it fit, but that doesn't mean a thing when flipped over, so you must cut out the inside of the test to allow the jack and plate to fit to see if it is indeed a good cut. Since it was... (I have never had a situation where all 3 worked out perfectly on the fist cut on the same guitar. Must be good karma for ya Dave.) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243297694-O6966NQ3F4OPJVVG36Y6/2strattute255.jpg SSB Part6 Place the plate on the guitar body in the approximate location. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243297854-5VUQOPKZFES30FZWIWHR/2strattute256.jpg SSB Part6 Then place the template over it, aligning it with the plate, then clamp the template. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243297937-TNVTZMLCC1FQXU32W2QR/2strattute257.jpg SSB Part6 Be certain to use router but, that is small enough to accommodate the small radius of the point on the jack plate. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243298135-YL3EB692V9EZ0S013KKY/2strattute258.jpg SSB Part6 Now I take a little nip to check for depth. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243298179-K4FV2U35GB0RYLRKTBTB/2strattute259.jpg SSB Part6 Buzz time again. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243298932-P0UB3WOTMW5KTLPXZEWE/2strattute260.jpg SSB Part6 Then check to be certain things are in order. I figure if it’ll go in upside down, I can bang the heck out of it when right side up… NOT! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243298721-UH3EAO3TJSC40FCUUS71/2strattute261.jpg SSB Part6 Since the plate is a stamped piece of metal, I need to relieve the edges of the rout to allow for it to seat correctly. Dremel time. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243298974-EWO4Y08UO3ZGS93SXR1E/2strattute262.jpg SSB Part6 And the results. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374247365639-BGBD7I6EBEEXYMWOBDE8/6continue.jpg SSB Part6 To continue to Part 7 Final Assembly & Setup Choose: Slide show viewing or Single Page https://www.ronkirn.com/ssb-part7 daily 0.75 2020-04-17 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243505419-8Z8KQ9JV9GS6EU5JYYQ6/2strattute263.jpg SSB Part7 So, rumor has it that the Klingons are circling, so I guess we better throw up the shield. I start with raw copper sheeting, and cut it into the necessary parts. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243505421-RT91ROHA08NTWQSHP7BV/2strattute264.jpg SSB Part7 I use the body template to lay out the bottoms of the various routs. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243505784-6P4JMBD20A00C7YSVTF9/2strattute265.jpg SSB Part7 Then cut them into the shape needed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243505812-QKQNC05GMXJ478DUAFI7/2strattute266.jpg SSB Part7 Then using a special tool, one that is a trade secret, so it’s even called by a fictitious name to keep it from being commonly known, this one is called a Craftsman Deep Well ¾ inch socket… is that cool or what, who will ever figure that one out? I flatten all the copper by burnishing it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243506081-S41WZ4LYHN7T726A41KG/2strattute267.jpg SSB Part7 With it all burnished flat, I take an abrasive pad and buff the collection, why? Because I know sometime in the future, curiosity will get the better of the owner, and he will pop the lid. I want him to look in there and see, this ain’t no stinking "off the rack" guitar. Or, another thought, I don’t want to ever be in the same room with something I made and have to explain something goofy. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243506319-G8DIH3LZ7DDLQ89MTQSY/2strattute268.jpg SSB Part7 Now, I place the parts. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243506376-6116W9VXBBJZEJ40VGLT/2strattute269.jpg SSB Part7 Then apply adhesive to the back side of the walls. This holds it in place until it’s soldered. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243506574-JUBAFGAQWKDJ5BZ2Q43P/2strattute270.jpg SSB Part7 And all the other strips. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243506683-1TH5LL4S2WZDAQ6SC8F9/2strattute271.jpg SSB Part7 Working around the edges, I solder at about 1 inch intervals. Be careful in the deep section, the back of the guitar and all the beautiful lacquer is only 1/8th inch away. Heat it too much and a blister raises it’s ugly head, and it’s back to refinishing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243506832-KUEI2D89X50NK7M159TY/2strattute272.jpg SSB Part7 And completed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243507134-7IQ8KHGO0WILODVSYJ8Q/2strattute273.jpg SSB Part7 I’ll take a moment here to coat the fresh wood in the routed areas with lacquer. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243507083-3Z3MSNJBZ0UCJII24ZIV/2strattute274.jpg SSB Part7 This gives it a fighting chance if anything wet hits the guitar, If left open, the water could soak into the grain, and cause the underlying wood to swell. Not a good thing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243507359-4LBX1PW8VDW0GD2YCEW1/2strattute275.jpg SSB Part7 I’m down to the little stuff, drilling pilot holes... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243507365-PCNGLE8Q581YQMZRWBWJ/2strattute276.jpg SSB Part7  ...etc. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243507642-4FJXSIVK5S1J16Q0K2IH/2strattute277.jpg SSB Part7 When using a 22 fret neck on the S, the pickguard has to be in place prior to mounting the neck, fire up the old Weller. I run the ground wire through to the tremolo spring claw, and attach the jack leads. The spiral winding produces about the same effect as using a shielded wire, but the nice thing is it maintains the vintage appearance. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243507601-SOKTC32REA6XGIPOT2NL/2strattute278.jpg SSB Part7 The claw requires considerable heat, a soldering pencil will not do it, the Weller Gun is about 150 watts and it barely has enough heat to overcome the “heat sink” qualities of the claw. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243507866-B11TXLY7HEDS10KR1UVW/2strattute279.jpg SSB Part7 With the pickguard in place I can mount the neck. I place it in the slot, that sounds logical, then take an awl and mark the location of the screws. I will press the awl in a skewed angle to mark the neck a bit long, or away from the body, then drill the holes in that location. What that does is, as the screws are driven home, they force the neck down and into the pocket creating a very tight joint, which is paramount in an S due to the way the pressure from the strings pull the neck and body together. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243507894-PRAPF1KPTNV1RC7AMB4G/2strattute280.jpg SSB Part7 I shim ‘em all with maple. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243508133-9HNCO2945PZHU8810O9B/2strattute281.jpg SSB Part7 Run the screws in, and... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243508306-AUIB0JFMAN99ET0Q665O/2strattute282.jpg SSB Part7 Here she is. Ready for strings. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243508612-LSRFIIO806MWWBH0Y9EU/2strattute283.jpg SSB Part7 Nuthin left but to string ‘er up and do a little tweaking. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243508789-OQ57ZG2FZ184X75MSR2C/2strattute284.jpg SSB Part7 On to the setup. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243508854-1NBVDVAVYIPNPB3INDIA/2strattute285.jpg SSB Part7 The setup is what makes or breaks the guitar, to begin simply string ‘er up. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243509187-GDB2603C9VC6GFUMVNWO/2strattute286.jpg SSB Part7 Then tune the guitar to pitch, and note the position of the tremolo here.. too high. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243509496-7DHYOIWDTV96NKTZN01W/2strattute287.jpg SSB Part7 The Wilkinson Tremolo has a setscrew in the bottom of the post, used to lock it securely, improving transmission of the string vibrations into the body. You must loosen them, then lower the posts until the bridge looks about right. I check the back “lines” to be certain the body of the tremolo is parallel to the guitar’s surface. Now I check the strings height around the 20th fret to see that there is clearance to work with. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243509506-A5U0A9VL852B0S73BFPN/2strattute288.jpg SSB Part7 To adjust the saddle height on the Wilk, you must release the locking screw on each saddle. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243509756-HXU244KTXQI86U4W4QES/2strattute289.jpg SSB Part7 Then I can begin adjusting the string height. I generally set 1 and 6 by eye, leaving about 1/16 inch clearance at the 20th fret. Then adjust the remaining 4 in a gradual arc to follow the necks radius. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243509762-YEC25AJ1BT0HGFM5NN42/2strattute290.jpg SSB Part7 Oh, I forgot, here I’m locking the tremolo stud’s setscrews in the bottom of the stud. At this point and with the strings tuned to pitch, I’ll fret the 3rd string at the 1st and 20th fret, then check around the 8th fret. There should be something like .010 inch. That’s about the thickness of a business card, indicating a very slight bow in the neck. Now I’ll sit the guitar aside for a day. Just to let it get used to the tension, the neck will want to bend a tad more, and the tremolo springs haven’t fully acclimated to the force of resistance to the string’s pull. Everything will take time to fully acclimate. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243509962-V1258BILS5EVMO9QIAAA/2strattute291.jpg SSB Part7 Now that the springs are used to their new life under constant tension, I adjust ‘em to get the tremolo approximately level with the surface of the guitar. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243509995-ZJIAOV8NQ1GQUYK5KN3Q/2strattute292.jpg SSB Part7 You don’t go over board, because as you tighten the spring claw, it pulls the strings to a higher pitch, when you retune, lowering the pitch, and the tension, the tremolo witch assume a new position, hopefully the correct one. It is a simple balancing act, the tension of the strings pulling against the tension exerted by the springs. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243510272-L5RQ8B3DY43OTJ1RU6D7/2strattute293.jpg SSB Part7 Once the tremolo is correct, we move to the other end. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243510468-FB21VMJ71YGKOE885MKJ/2strattute294.jpg SSB Part7 If you recall, as I was doing the assembly, I pre-slotted the nut with an approximate depth of slot, I now finish that aspect. I lift each string from the slot, give it a few swipes with the nut file, and reseat the string. I check each one leaving about 1/64th at the first fret under the first string and about 3/128ths under the 6th. Unplugged, I pluck each string, you will be able to hear if there is any fret buzz, or the dreaded “citar” sound. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243510532-6KTPX1AUAV34E5JUVC98/2strattute295.jpg SSB Part7 Now I recheck action in the vicinity of the 15th fret, raising or lowering each saddle respectively until I detect a bit of buzz. I then raise the saddle a full turn of the setscrew in the saddle, to give slightly more than enough clearance. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243510697-OIZJ264Y4286DYTXBMFM/2strattute296.jpg SSB Part7 Since I may have raised several strings, I will recheck the height at the first fret and re cut the slots as necessary. Remember the correct height at the first fret is the same as the height at the second fret when the string is fretted at the first. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374269027311-1M5CD9IZET8MF4MLMUA8/tuteblank.jpg SSB Part7 Now on to the intonation. No photos, you know what picking a note, checking the tuner, and moving the saddle backward or forward looks like. But, I pluck E 1st, and tune dead on the money, then check the E at the 12th fret. If sharp or flat, I recheck the string open, then if flat I shorten the string by moving the saddle towards the neck, if sharp, I lengthen it by moving in the opposite direction. I repeat checking at the 19th fret. Except the second, at the 20th. Again moving the saddle according to the note as indicated on the tuner, Umm... chromatic tuner. I’ll let is set a few hours, come back and recheck, make whatever final adjustments, and it’s done. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243510811-MSRTR8QBPK38AJUAR0MR/2strattute297.jpg SSB Part7 One thing that consistently bothers me is the junky little plastic knobs. It doesn’t matter if you bought a $300 Squire or a $3000 CS, the switch knob and tremolo handle, while slightly different in shape, are made with the same “molded mud” technology, leaving that seam from the mold the plastic was injected into. This is such a little thing, but... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243510939-E8TX2RODEJLZB2HLUM3X/2strattute298.jpg SSB Part7 I take the switch knob, I do the tremolo handle the same way, but the Wilkinson doesn’t have one so you will have to imagine that part. I take the knob, and stick it on the end of a tool I made from a 16d nail. I chuck it in a drill and rotate it against pretty much the first piece of old sandpaper I can find. I do so until the casting lines are gone... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243511086-9HRZ0LZH8X8RCLLACS58/2strattute299.jpg SSB Part7 Then move up to a finer sandpaper. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243511294-ETH48B6BRK66J61TWKVP/2strattute300.jpg SSB Part7 Now I step over to the buffing wheel and umm…. Buff. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243511517-6CLE9L98QSJV66FRTY1C/2strattute301.jpg SSB Part7 And the results looks like someone actually gave a hoot about what the subtleties looked like. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243511738-SNIKIS3PXXMLQVETUX87/2strattute302.jpg SSB Part7 Now the nut is cut, but not finalized. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243511971-QC856I92TMTJ40OC1KRQ/2strattute303.jpg SSB Part7 So I remove it, I haven’t glued it yet, so it’s just a matter of loosening the strings. I then take it to the sanding disk and do the final shaping. Since everyone seems to have their personal preferences as to how deep the slot should be, do yer thing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243512280-6U2H9SM6K38RJICBOLZX/2strattute304.jpg SSB Part7 Then I take a piece of very fine paper, her 500 grit and run the nut’s top edge along the sandpaper to remove the course sanding marks. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243512530-L0MS1Y0DVZLV2J4C5MZN/2strattute305.jpg SSB Part7 Running it laterally, will leave a very smooth surface. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243512774-WFAJKHWU3PFMK7B40P9W/2strattute306.jpg SSB Part7 Now over to the buffing wheel again.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374278700685-6O0JACP6U4EPYMZSVGLW/2strattute308a.jpg SSB Part7 This only takes a few seconds, and produces a bone nut that looks more like Ivory than a lot of Ivory nuts I’ve seen over the years. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243514611-ZW6JI974ANO7KN4CLCRL/2strattute308.jpg SSB Part7 Now I assemble the nifty nut installation kit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243755765-QFPCQV34DFR91FHN9MNY/2strattute309.jpg SSB Part7 And taking the highly specialized “applicator”, load it up with glue. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243755781-BSGMMSKXNO3JC0VMU6I0/2strattute310.jpg SSB Part7 I now apply a dab of glue to each side of the nut slot, the spot is only about ¼ inch long on each side. I DO NOT apply a load of glue, you shouldn’t either. There is nothing structural here, the glue is only to keep the nut from falling out if you ever remove all the strings. And you may want to remove the little bugger one of these days. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374244070599-CNREC8TJE7QU61T2H91D/2strattute311.jpg SSB Part7 Replace the strings and the pressure will seat the nut. With that, this baby’s done.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374247408405-MGJM9YYL3PC9APJLAWTQ/7continue.jpg SSB Part7 To continue to Part 8 The Finished Sunburst S Type Choose: Slide show viewing or Single Page https://www.ronkirn.com/ssb-part8 daily 0.75 2020-04-17 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243626524-MP2C2JP9KTNR0KE01FYD/2strattute312.jpg SSB Part8 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243626677-ULANNCDERY5K9ERJQY7D/2strattute313.jpg SSB Part8 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243626904-57LK1ITF2A77KDPNI9RH/2strattute314.jpg SSB Part8 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243626918-31L39TRLEKE0X7MENDVI/2strattute315.jpg SSB Part8 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374244121106-WIZ8WJ335GKXHKR79RXH/2strattute319.jpg SSB Part8 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374279411535-TDOM6XXEICDW6EVN3U17/2strattute320.jpg SSB Part8 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243628334-2ZHRCX9FZGC3SWJUSA3Y/2strattute321.jpg SSB Part8 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243628569-CPXCE2FG5D9ZRBLMPJJQ/2strattute323.jpg SSB Part8 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243628795-L86QCU7HYTW2JZZBWK2X/2strattute324.jpg SSB Part8 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243628837-PEC3UIROAYLOUZ3JVZH3/2strattute325.jpg SSB Part8 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374280040480-OYC37GU5VGL2HNN8XSJ2/2strattute326.jpg SSB Part8 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374280058455-394RBUPCMCDYVSPTOY2U/2strattute327.jpg SSB Part8 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374279626473-R77ESR1R6N8EAI834PJR/2strattute328.jpg SSB Part8 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374280149473-BEQC9ENRC3B3L8SJZB87/2strattute329.jpg SSB Part8 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243629667-Y30CM607MORBVBLKDJ4G/2strattute330.jpg SSB Part8 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243627536-328990EYBKYLJFGE24ER/2strattute318.jpg SSB Part8 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243627231-FH6D8VILDK80IW2ERFA0/2strattute317.jpg SSB Part8 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374243627179-0VYS7L4LEJC5E3WJ6A11/2strattute316.jpg SSB Part8 One of the last things I do is play an Em scale. For some reason, if there is “Stratitus” or the pickups too close to the strings pulling the 6th into an asymmetrical wave, I can really hear it ... Perfect. Click here to return to Builds. https://www.ronkirn.com/s-type daily 0.75 2024-10-05 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1728161368437-CAK6704PUX6LK7T5YOH0/DSC_1068.JPG S Type Gallery - '62 E-Type https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374855971833-R2YJABLF38ZHLBUJ722J/adair01.jpg S Type Gallery - Adair Affair https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374855971849-R6H4DSWYQEX19O90BV8G/bigric01.jpg S Type Gallery - Big Ric https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374855972159-B23V7S5J0FF0JINC3VPT/blackcherry05.jpg S Type Gallery - Black Cherry https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1572019556941-8MQPP4JDK4YNH2BC42PN/DSC_7524.jpeg S Type Gallery - Burgundy Baby https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374855978244-6J7TVG1O41SPF6JZPZDK/burgundyice01.JPG S Type Gallery - Burgundy Ice 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I wet it with alcohol to make it more apparent. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013475096-GI3X2N9WEHWNQ2KNWVZ6/Spruce127.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer Using a piece of scrap remaining from the blank, I’ll mix a little dye in lacquer thinner, with a very small amount of lacquer to give it a little body, then try it on the scrap. You can see it is a little too pink, so I add a toothpick tip drop of brown and try again.. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013475240-OAPJQQ9MY1GUAHXHVFGB/Spruce128.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer That’s about right. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013475281-KDPSF9RBN662BG48N0VO/Spruce129.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer Now I shield the area that is already dark, suspending it slightly above. This allows a little “blow back” to soften the edge and look much more natural. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013475412-JE06JKWF7S0IDN8P8I43/Spruce130.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013475444-5TGHYQFGB08YIGWF023O/Spruce131.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer I now mount a paint handle, keeping it above the pocket so there will be no chipping or peel off when I remove it in a couple of weeks. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013475611-W6WJAHGYCSWRTECECT4S/Spruce132.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer So it gets a few coats of sealer. Which will be thoroughly sanded before any color goes on. You can see the dark strand looks much more natural now. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013475655-O8MXUFSSKKX1NCFU1ZDI/Spruce133.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer And remember, I jointed at an angel to reduce the point where the two sections were joined? It’ll sit for a few, then it gets sanded too. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013475835-XBXYTU9K0DR864VOF5NZ/Spruce134.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer It was hot and dry, so the lacquer dried quickly. After it’s plenty hard, I sand the surface with 220 grit. I use a finish sander on the flat surfaces and I slow it down with a variable speed control. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013475885-P4C6RML74HNHOSEHG8ZC/Spruce135.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer And on the inside and outside curves, I use a specialized multipurpose tool I always have at my disposal. On an S, I prefer using my fingers for the same reason you would not want to use them on a flat area, they create a more flowing surface, not mechanically flat like you want on the larger flat surfaces. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013476045-AGEZN6JML9AZYQD6C8ZD/Spruce136.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer I now have the complete surface sanded with 220. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013476108-6HVXV8YFZD6GI66FZHPV/Spruce137.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer Here I went through the sealer, but since the stuff I use soaks into the wood slightly, it’ll be fine, but check the complete surface to be certain you haven’t missed anything. Fix it now BEFORE the color coat goes on. Fixing small dings that have gone unnoticed can be drop filled, and any visual anomaly will be covered by the color coat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013476191-FTYVCX5ICJPETN0KY73P/Spruce138.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer Now, I’ll give it a good coat of nitro, and check it in as many lighting conditions as I can to check for anything I don’t wanna see when she’s finished. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013476348-URGHV4D6PP6WZ2E0TYY1/Spruce139.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer Lookin, good, time for a bit of color. Before I begin this, please to those that have been doing this for a considerable time, I appreciate input, but I am self trained over 40 years, and I ain’t uh gonna be changing anything I do, ‘cause what I do works just fine for me. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013476381-YXBPA1KXSKPFZRJSSF23/Spruce140.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer So I start with a pot of lacquer, nice ‘n clear. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013476521-6820LURQPFTDHX1OX6OO/Spruce141.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer Then I add a stick tip full of white tint. Tint differs from dye because it is opaque, and can, if enough is used, produce a completely opaque white lacquer. I just add touch to produce something that is like watery milk. This gives me something that would be perfect for a Mary Kaye finish. But we want a Honey Blonde. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013476573-YVXS5VCPOQSQ1IY3MC4U/Spruce142.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer Now I add a toothpick tip of brown dye. Dye changes the color, but not the opacity. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586800262720-F1T055JRQHR5ZG64WT9W/DSC_0012-14.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer I keep a good selection of colors. Using this stuff is as much an art as anything else. It’s just something you have to get in there and do to get the hang of it. It’s a matter of adding the basic color, and adding other tints to get where you are going. You MUST consider the color of the base wood too, it’s going to be seen too. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013476721-FFN74XICK36UG49H4Z4C/Spruce144.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer The brown alone didn’t do it, so I add a drop of yellow. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013476896-KHUR5LJIPJ38VFANQYAN/Spruce145.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer Which wasn’t correct either, so more brown. Now it’s looking about right. I always try to keep the color lighter that what I expect because I know I can correct during the clear coat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013476907-SBJAFAI5DZET6U5IFUHC/Spruce146.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer Mix it thoroughly and put down a light mist, to check color. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013477149-3UY9MZF5PWEO16F2N8FV/Spruce147.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer Have a good look in different light to see what you have done. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013477203-PBNJ750TC255J96QBXZG/Spruce148.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer I now go for the full Monty. I put it down in several light coats, which allows me to control the density and the evenness of the coverage. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013477438-MNDBYPCE3J3AFYFB4NJ6/Spruce149.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer Since I’m putting down light mist coats, I can never get to a full wet coat which reduces the “orange peel” effect. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013477475-ROJY3P6CJ1IRQCOXU9HP/Spruce150.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer This is what I mean by the “orange peel” look… not good. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013477696-739NC6AL6YR4GJDRYG7T/Spruce151.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer In this shot you can see an area with a good wet coat, and the as yet un-coated mist section. Oh yes, after the several mist coats to achieve the correct shade, I give it a good wet coat of clear lacquer to blend everything. That’s what I’m doing in these shots.. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013477696-46NMF1PASSKPDJJG458O/Spruce152.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer Now I have a full wet coat. What I mean by wet coat is I continue laying down thin coats until I know one more and it’ll run… that’s a “feel” thing it just takes time and practice. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013477933-ILRY6VVFT4SHULHHLJ1Z/Spruce153.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer By mastering the wet coat thing, you can dramatically reduce the amount of wet sanding you will need to do. Learn to look through the finish at reflected light to get a good idea of the quality of the coat you’re putting down. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013477943-FKINXCDMAMCV93MOPDSQ/Spruce154.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013478791-2RRJQ2A9QTV0NY40TGCJ/Spruce155.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer I now have a finished color coat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013478960-KC0FJKA63J83DPB5L9KH/Spruce156.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer I applied several coats of clear, and allowed it to cure for a few days before sanding. Then repeat paint and sanding again. I gave the lacquer 3 days to harden. Down here it’s about 90, so that’s like 3 months in the rest of the country. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013479068-JNAYBQ3E19PQ5H7RRVDX/Spruce157.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer So I take 400 grit (I was out of 320) and use a random orbit sander at about 50% speed, I just want to take down the high spots, I am NOT going for a finish sand, this is just an interim to prevent build-up on the high spots of the minute hills and valleys in the lacquers surface. Also roughing it up facilitates the new coat’s ability to melt into the previous, becoming one homogenous film. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013479339-CWIBIJTN7XUWHR9J03TS/Spruce158.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer I use the sander on the flat surfaces, then my fingers around the periphery. There is no need to use 220, then 320, then 500, 800, it just consumes sandpaper, and makes you sore. Also, you absolutely, positively do not want to sand through the clear, into the color coat, and worse, through the color. Watch everything closely. Once sanded, check it thoroughly, looking for anomalies that may make the final surface funky, take care of them now. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013479378-HEGFOZTHCDW9MOD0LE9N/Spruce159.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer Remember, resist the urge to put too much time and effort in sanding to a perfect flat surface, you are going to be spraying more lacquer, and you will be right back where you are. Once this sanding is completed, it’s time to get ‘er wet again. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013479854-9FOXY5KVZXS7C7UF91IK/Spruce160.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer Here’s what the first good wet coat looks like. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013482723-225IDI2YPQHQ1ZD43X8D/Spruce161.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer And here’s what it looks like looking through the finish. By that I mean look at it like it was a mirror and you were watching whatever light source was being reflected, here the light fixtures on the ceiling. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013480439-ALUPPNQC1KNCD3B1D99Y/Spruce162.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer After about 10 minutes, it is just about completely dry to the touch, but still feels just a “crack” damp. I give it another good full wet coat… stopping just before it’ll run. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013481681-W22OWBRW3VBMJGEE0TU4/Spruce163.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer Good wet coats help previously dried lacquer to melt into the new lacquer. Thin coats will never accomplish this, and when you get to the sanding, the new coats will peel. Here the body has dried a few hours, you can see the slight “orange peel”. But what you can’t tell is how very shallow the “pits” are as compared to the “hills”. It’ll only take about 3 passes with 800 wet or dry to cut that down to dead level. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013482112-V5U0X2KGI5FCOOMQ00YF/Spruce164.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer And heres the back at the area of the tummy contour. So this pretty much concludes the finishing stage on the body. Now it’ll hang in the back room for about 2 weeks before I get around to wet sanding and polishing ‘er. In the mean time, I’ll work on the neck. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586915586505-YHTGI4CLXSPPCLKPQHIU/Continue3.jpg Part 2 Color & Lacquer To continue to Part 3 The Neck Choose: Slide show viewing or Single Page https://www.ronkirn.com/sitka-part3 daily 0.75 2020-04-17 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013644403-04VSJLZ9IJUTQQVOQQ11/Spruce165.jpg Part 3 The Neck The USGA neck arrived, in the typical Tommy Rosamond fashion. Impeccable. But since the headstock needed to be reshaped, there was a little work to do prior to finishing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013644473-326OJ0J1YYQR978I8L3P/Spruce166.jpg Part 3 The Neck The choice of headstock shape can be a controversial topic, so here I’ll use other photos showing the process as it is shaped into the headstock I use on many guitars. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013644559-8CE44A8522SZ6AO6XU77/Spruce167.jpg Part 3 The Neck The first thing is to create a template, of the desired shape, I trace out the existing headstock, re-draw the new style, then using a spindle sander fine tune to the final shape. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013644680-1JHWBWRKVQSWQLDGHZDW/Spruce168.jpg Part 3 The Neck Once I’m happy with the appearance, using double stick tape, fasten the template to the headstock. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013644745-Y9QBKA43A03PMCNGKKUH/Spruce169.jpg Part 3 The Neck If using tape to secure the template, be certain it is firmly attached, you wouldn’t want any slippage here now would ya? https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013644846-3SA8GOEGP57ZOX0Q7EVL/Spruce170.jpg Part 3 The Neck Now, I use the router to SLOWLY remove the excess lumber, working down to the template. If you’re removing large amounts of wood, you may want to trim the excess with a band, or jig, saw first. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013645021-T5CAQSFUUSP18HS5KQ22/Spruce171.jpg Part 3 The Neck Once the final shape has been achieved, it’s time to finish sand the bugger. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013645034-VNX4WPYDFGNRYQS441FE/Spruce172.jpg Part 3 The Neck Since sanding is a concept most understand, I’m not posting a lot of photos, showing my chubby little fingers pushing paper over the lumber, I just begin at the spindle sander then hit it with something like 150 grit, then 220, and finish with 320. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013645189-F10SFNL56DBRVU58MT5P/Spruce173.jpg Part 3 The Neck There are a few little things to do to fine tune the shape, mainly the flow from the back of the neck’s profile into the headstock. I just take a small sanding block and 150 paper and allow the block to follow the natural curve of the neck, removing the hard edges the router left. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013645294-S5GYZANHY6KWSYT1KS2K/Spruce174.jpg Part 3 The Neck Once it’s about right, I check in the sunlight, the ‘ol shadow trick, and then finish sand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013645539-5FUMJJ84PQ993BNSGZF1/Spruce175.jpg Part 3 The Neck Correct any foibles the sunlight may reveal, and that’s completed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013645531-Z8S8TSZRMG4SB2LUVXPM/Spruce176.jpg Part 3 The Neck Now, back to our regularly scheduled program, in progress, the neck for this guitar. In the sunlight, the shadows will reveal any irregularities in the graceful curves, some may be as subtle as .001 of an inch, but can be quite visible when it’s finished, so a light sanding will correct it and make life easier as you check your finished project in a few weeks. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013645725-87WY1M6QM78YZMK26XG5/Spruce178.jpg Part 3 The Neck If you have a fingerboard that doesn’t require lacquer, do not forget to mask it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013645862-8EI8MRDEXKW1POQYGQRR/Spruce179.jpg Part 3 The Neck Now, let’s make a little amber. I take about 8 oz of lacquer, give or take. This ain’t rocket science. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013645858-UVZ4GYTAL6UPW5CYO84O/Spruce180.jpg Part 3 The Neck And add about 8 drops of yellow. Sherwin Williams Universal dye… it’s not cheap and not easily removed from anything you get it on. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013646124-GLMMUPVER8NTTAL6XRGL/Spruce181.jpg Part 3 The Neck Since yellow is yellow and not amber, I need to add a some red. As I’m mixing, I use a paint stick I have made from a piece of scrap maple as close to the color of the neck as I can find. This allows me to assess the tint as I’m mixing. Here I’ve added a drop of orange… orange because it’s red and yellow. A single drop of just red would be too much. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013646188-ODJ8OR0WDX3FOTZSZD5S/Spruce182.jpg Part 3 The Neck Here you can see the color is about right. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013646303-TN8EFL36JHMWFDK1AR6A/Spruce183.jpg Part 3 The Neck What you want is a pot of lacquer that is about the same shade as a bottle of fine scotch. Also, when mixing your tint, keep it “thin”. You want to have to spray several coats to get the correct shade, this makes it much easier to control. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013646428-ZOOI7XAXSXUF20Q11E1B/Spruce184.jpg Part 3 The Neck Wipe the neck with a good degreaser, to remove any fingerprints or other funk that may have landed on it. I use lacquer thinner… and don’t forget the area where the tape was attached, it can leave a very thin residue, clean it well. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013646481-A4NX4TFN5ODQSYC7SVAG/Spruce185.jpg Part 3 The Neck And then give ‘er a squirt. Here I sprayed the head, so you could see the comparison with the un tinted maple. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013646606-E2H290DIERXQD3Z2Q81L/Spruce186.jpg Part 3 The Neck And here’s the neck with one coat compared to one un sprayed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013646644-09TEC7SWO3Z6AQYG9JIS/Spruce187.jpg Part 3 The Neck On this day I had a neck or two going, so there was one or two others to compare it to. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013647309-W1S41MHC823688DW80MU/Spruce188.jpg Part 3 The Neck Now it’s just a matter of re-applying coats until you have the shade you want. Once the correct color is applied, allow it to dry for about a half hour or so, or a month. Then shoot the head with a few coats of clear, to make a bed for the decal. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013647307-K111QXWIIBYUK116XV9C/Spruce189.jpg Part 3 The Neck Now that the lacquer has dried for a few hours, I can apply my decal. It’s a water slide, so I let it soak for about a minute, or until is slips freely around. With today’s modern decals, the film is generally a synthetic material and will stretch, so be gentle. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013647528-AXTZPFUSI140KG4VMGOO/Spruce190.jpg Part 3 The Neck I put a drop or two of water on the neck to facilitate placing the decal. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013647601-NVJ7O2GFK9PME8O5O1A5/Spruce191.jpg Part 3 The Neck Then slide the decal off the paper base onto the neck. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013648491-W9BOM0HA07PKIJD0BK7S/Spruce192.jpg Part 3 The Neck I very lightly press the decal into the approximate location, not hard enough to squeeze the water from between the decal and the neck, just hard enough to keep it from floating around. But I can still move it if I need to. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013648526-9FURYF3YVXKXHO0D09ED/Spruce193.jpg Part 3 The Neck Now I “eye ball” down the neck to get it visually “straight” relative to the apparent “lines” of the neck. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013648979-9VP43DWP8C4KIWOKT0VS/Spruce194.jpg Part 3 The Neck Now using the appropriate applicator, I start slowly working the water out from between the neck and decal. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013649059-0T8VYH830FALHJ6J61LD/Spruce195.jpg Part 3 The Neck The applicator is one specially designed for this particular use, here you see a roll I keep handy, I find keeping a “Bounty” of them handy is a good thing, also they can be used as a “quicker picker upper”. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013649348-GPIAN1DJF0STJ8QGG4NN/Spruce196.jpg Part 3 The Neck You will see when the decal attaches to the headstock, then I increase the pressure, to work the remaining moisture out. If you have additional decals, apply them now, it the same manner. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013649394-6I2MKVCCTWEPXWJ17OX4/Spruce197.jpg Part 3 The Neck Once the decal is set, check it closely in good lite from several angles… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013649651-7K1M8UIN1B2MT66Y9GBE/Spruce198.jpg Part 3 The Neck Now I let it dry thoroughly over night. Tomorrow is lacquer day. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013649705-XB795OX3TQMS3G1N1KBS/Spruce199.jpg Part 3 The Neck I put down about 5 coats of lacquer on the whole neck. The thickness is about equivalent to one coat of an enamel, poly, etc. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013649985-74SNFAY7JI4R0OH4YZIF/Spruce200.jpg Part 3 The Neck After a little wait, I wet sand to reduce the film thickness over the decal get it approximately level with the surrounding area. I let it dry then lightly sand the decal, to reduce the obvious hump the lacquer leaves. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013649993-Z9RITNGKI5K8INJ1YZCV/Spruce201.jpg Part 3 The Neck Then I will spray only the headstock face and decal with 5 more coats, allow to dry a day or so, sand, then will finish with another 5 coats. Since I’ll be putting 5 more coats on ‘er it doesn’t need to be perfect at this stage. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013650173-47NRTLRKEIZRZIOWKSFK/Spruce202.jpg Part 3 The Neck I do the back of the neck too, since it a large flat area, it just makes final wet sanding that much easier. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013650219-CFS3M2DHODQI4M739GM8/Spruce203.jpg Part 3 The Neck After this interim sanding, it’s back to spraying for a few more coats. But now, back to the body… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586916061588-P3QJQE2GEDGBG8R711IO/Continue4.jpg Part 3 The Neck To continue to Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Choose: Slide show viewing or Single Page https://www.ronkirn.com/sitka-part4 daily 0.75 2020-04-17 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013694098-EZSWPM8R7178LW5NUMD1/Spruce204.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard OK, time to scratch ‘er up a little. I use 500 or 600 grit, then 800 on nitro. On harder finishes, I may take it one more step to 1200 grit. But here, I’m using 600 first. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013694232-JRFC7T06FFM6BDE6TFFR/Spruce205.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard The large flat area helps “block” the surface to a very flat condition. Here, I’m using a piece of Corian that’s about 3 ½ by 4, more or less. Using mineral spirits as the wetting agent, I use circular motion watching the reflection of the lights overhead in the wet surface. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013694282-IVN7SIXMX2QCDH2H1CX9/Spruce206.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard After a few minutes, wipe the surface, allow the residue to dry, and check in natural light. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013694425-HUPUAOZJ675L3WQ6UKF6/Spruce207.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard You are looking for a nice even matte appearance, no glossy spots should remain. Here on the back, I have stopped early to show how not to do it. While this could be corrected as I move up to the next grit, that would be slower cutting, resulting in more work. So go back, wet it again, and continue sanding until the surface is completely matte. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013694484-VVHYZ359QO0LFQBHP7BC/Spruce208.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard To do the edges, on a Strat since about everything else is a curved surface, I go to using my hand, this allows great control and feel. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013694572-AR2WWO2HM1WBLQCYJY6Q/Spruce209.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard On the inside areas, you will find them a bit more tedious to sand, but stay with it until the entire surface is matte. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013694633-60FK99ZO8OEDBFCUMGRU/Spruce210.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Once that’s done, it’s time to move up to the next grit. I’m using 800 here, which will be the last. There is considerable difference in the various brands of sand paper. There’s Norton, Gator Grit, Mirka, Klingspor, 3M and on and on. I have found that the 3M Imperial is about the best, fastest cutting around. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013694701-V4P0WJSZRVB2G3Q94P6C/Spruce211.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Now just repeat all the previous sanding, but you will see, it takes much less time and effort this time. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013694784-SW63M491GVYDJNZV4I6Z/Spruce212.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Now get in the sunlight and check for any areas that may have been missed. They will appear glossy. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013694827-1VUID4I6E82TPGL8KMJ4/Spruce213.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Give it a good look… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013694909-FEFK5UOG92NJZBTCIS00/Spruce214.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard If any areas are still glossy, go back and correct them. It doesn’t matter how small, they will stick out like a lunar crater in the finished body. You should now have a smooth, evenly matte surface, ready for the buffing wheel.. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013694977-V88WFIO34JTWNXYO61LR/Spruce215.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard So we have a nicely sanded body, waiting for a chance to shine. I “charge” the buffing wheel with tan buffing compound, available from Grizzly.com. It’s not as messy as the liquid compounds. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013695067-R6Y4AXQOZ15OSRRS5ALW/Spruce216.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Then just press and keep it moving. I add more buffing compound every few minutes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013695117-TZB0I7YNB962OB4ZFVHG/Spruce217.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard This took about a minute. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013695213-0DULCHEJ7OVHWE0F9KJ3/Spruce218.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard This is about 10 minutes into it. The only caution with lacquer is that it will soften due to the heat generated by friction. This is a “double edged sword”. The soft lacquer takes a polish very fast, but soft lacquer can scratch quite easily too. Jut be careful. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013695287-M1USLRSWDT6J2O5WXM1X/Spruce219.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard One of the areas that usually get less attention is the inside of the horns. They can be rather tedious to polish. If using a power buffing wheel you must be careful not to allow the wheel to burn through. Particularly on the sharp corners around the neck pocket and heel. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013695378-0MQA15E01VKJ7Z66QFRK/Spruce220.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Just take it slow, I usually reduce the wheel speed to the lowest setting. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013695413-6A6Q39AXVSESTTAY5I5V/Spruce221.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard It’s attention to detail in these areas that reduce that much adored “homemade” look to a minimum. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013695566-4KYQJ8O0FYZS17QQCVTB/Spruce222.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Once this area is completed, I work around the outside edges. Watching the reflections in the gloss on the body, this will allow you to see any abrasions remaining from the wet sanding, and address them. And this is the finished product. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013695687-I8742JPYWBYX2LQYP2VC/Spruce223.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard And the back. At this point the body is complete. I will take a good car wax and give it a good polishing. Next, it’s Pickguard time. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013695866-MXO5OCVULL6KFAVQED7X/Spruce224.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard I make my own pickguards, mainly because there is so much variation from one batch to the next from the different suppliers. Also, wood will move on ya. This way, if a body shrinks a little, I can adjust the pick guard to accommodate it. Here’s the candidate for today’s project. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013695958-0B4ORJ367YJTEBCHPDRL/Spruce225.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard This template has been made specifically for the ’62 S. The body is only a few degrees separated from a genuine 1962 S. Today’s pickguards differ slightly from those found on the ’62.. so I corrected that. Now we determine what shade Tortoise Shell pickguard will look best. I prefer the brown. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013696174-QWQPP5JKHJDNOPVZJQF1/Spruce226.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard I trace out the shape and head to the band saw to cut out the rough shape. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013696226-BOI3BAQ1BQY4RTW6R5AO/Spruce227.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard I use good ‘ol golf grip tape to secure the blank to the template. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013696380-OZGDX9PUU6M8GM3W21V3/Spruce228.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Apply good firm pressure to get a good secure bond, then to the drill press. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013696471-BNJL50TXP7POG0GMTEOL/Spruce229.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard I drill a pilot hole in the pickup holes, and drill the pot mounting holes, and all other holes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013696922-NMSQ8DPBFJMKNMUPFE9B/Spruce230.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard When drilling laminated pickguard material, use a fresh backing. If your table is full of old holes, the downward pressure from the drill press can cause the surface lamination to separate and pop loose. It’s not repairable, so use something under the pickguard that has no voids, and move the pickguard to a new location for each hole. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013697009-02XLYXVSWG134S2XQYWV/Spruce231.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Now it pretty straightforward, just go around the template, rather slowly. Once complete, clean all the plastic shavings off the table and the work and go around again. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013697957-M8G4BP365XI0RXSLJV4C/Spruce232.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard At this point, I check to be certain the neck has a nice neat fit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013698005-AVNOLAWZD0WZUBSHTLR8/Spruce233.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard I now change to a 3/8 inch diameter router bit, and cut the pickup holes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013698363-L6X00Y18TQHDR8V5PT3U/Spruce234.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard It now looks strangely like a pickguard. Next, the beveled edge… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013698811-JTLCYUI29KGF1DNHVFJA/Spruce235.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Now put a 45 degree bevel bit in the router. Sorry I plain forgot to photograph it, but it looks like a 45 degree bevel bit. I adjust so I’m sure it will not make too deep of a cut, I want to adjust the height of the bit to get it correct, in this shot, you can see the 3rd ply, the black, is just beginning to “peek” out. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013698891-9SGLP9QZNQ17PY7QGLE3/Spruce236.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard I raise the router a few thousandths, and this is the results. It’s good, so rout the bevel. Be careful though, there are areas that do not get beveled, the neck pocket, and the tremolo cutout. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013699119-7SE1ITQT9RFWQJ2FI80X/Spruce237.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Now go back and check visually to be certain the “lines” are all cut evenly. If you see areas that are cut too shallow so the different layers of the pickguard aren’t even, re-cut, applying more downward pressure in those areas. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013699246-JWDGS12W97AM8GDXYWNQ/Spruce238.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Once the bevel is correct, I move on to countersink the screw holes. I use the layers of the pickguard as a reference, to determine the depth, or you can set the drill press stop and use sheets of paper to work the pickguard up into the countersink to get to the correct depth. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013699316-4613QVJ6QJ083VU7SY9O/Spruce239.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard I’ll check with a pickguard screw to be sure I know what I’m doing…lookin’ good. All the screw holes are countersunk with the exception of the switch screws. I need those holes for the next task, cutting the switch slot. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013700120-JZE4FQ1BCZJXMVMD1O0U/Spruce240.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard I get my trusty switch slot gizmo… a jig I made, and a Dremel with a 1/16 inch bit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013700285-4YJ44ECPAEMWN1JSFJ3H/Spruce241.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard The jig was made so that the 2 hold down screws are in the same location as the switch mounting screws. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013700341-KY3IDCE3VDQCC2BHLFXE/Spruce242.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Adjust the Dremel, so it will just cut through the pickguard. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013700664-3KTHQFTCGCA820ZYJOZ2/Spruce243.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Now it’s just a matter of gently lowering the bit into the slot, and making a pass, while continuing to move the Dremel, turn it off. Once it has stopped, remove it, and clean out all the plastic chips, then repeat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013700927-FKC75CZKOUWL0BNF3W6C/Spruce244.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard By continually moving the tool you reduce the chance a clump of plastic will attach itself to the bit, and burn a section of the slots edge. We now have a slot. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013701002-ML23JSS3NWKAPFQQA0EU/Spruce245.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Now since the pickguard mounting screws are a different size than the switch mounting screws, we need to be careful when countersinking the holes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013701250-X4QKIW3Y8B2C60DE7ML1/Spruce246.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard I just use the same process on the drill press, watching the exposed rings of the different layers of the pickguard plastic, then check with a screw. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013701332-Z98DK4VE1JHR0R5ZBFO8/Spruce247.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Using an emery board, smooth the switch slot, and clean any plastic shavings. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013701503-B2CCMSP84YM4PJ6OZATI/Spruce248.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard I now install the switch to be certain it fits and the selections can be made without any interference from the pickguard. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013701614-MCURJZBNUH9WIODH2NFL/Spruce249.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard I’ll now take a moment to clean any remaining plastic shavings, etc. from the back side. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013702422-8WTXXC2JI3YIIVUOX9R4/Spruce250.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard And the pickguard is ready. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013702791-2Q6G82T500LM9I6J6FGU/Spruce251.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard So whadya do with a nice new pickguard, why ya load it up and wire the rascal. So I get all the “stuff” together, and organize it on a specially designed mat specifically intended for assembling state of the art electronics, and wiping up spilled spaghetti sauce. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013702860-9JCOHSEE6X5TR6ZPDF6F/Spruce252.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Do the preliminary assembly, lock nut, star washer, and into the hole… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013703251-0WOFI2DHNW5DXJ5T1HDS/Spruce253.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Don’t tighten anything yet, you will usually have to slide the shield, if you use the vintage style, to get it into position. It’s also not unusual to have to enlarge a hole or two to get it all together. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013703326-PVCF9PEEX5QMT6HA0J98/Spruce254.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Once everything is mounted, tighten down the pots and switch. I use silicone tubing as spacers for the pickups. It is indestructible, and if you choose the right size, it just fits over the 6-32 height adjusting screws tight enough to hold em in place while you run the screws into the pickups. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013703469-WIP8JA8ZMFWY7LH0U045/Spruce255.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard I also use linen string to tie the wiring to make for a neat assembly. I cannot stand to open a guitar and see old tape wrapped around the wiring, the string is so much neater. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013703543-1YTL15FX4Y9XC1PTT8M2/Spruce256.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Now I solder the 3 primary pickup leads to the switch, and bundle the 3 ground wires. On most S-types, I will use an isolated ground point, isolated by an audio grade capacitor. There is no sonic change, but the resulting S is as quiet as one with humbuckers. For me, it’s a no brainer. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013703690-VH5CLISLTLV9ZJAPKMWZ/Spruce257.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard So just keep on following what ever schematic you have selected, until you run out of things to solder. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013703927-ZRL8EQZRT0TP6ODGDZHA/Spruce258.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard I’ve about completed everything by now. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013703978-BY9AXW6V20HOI9VOVTT0/Spruce259.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard So it’s about time to check things out. I’ve connected the jack. For those that may be unaware, the spiraled hookup wire is for a reason; by spiraling them you get a shielding effect. So if you want it quiet, and want the vintage appearance of cotton covered wire, twist ‘em. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013704194-GEBG10S8RBVKDAU5A656/Spruce260.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard Now, I plug ‘er in to the amp, um, turned down… and using a specially developed tool I’ll test each pickup and switch combination. It’s ready for installation. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586916108757-ZH0B22PGPWRJAPCYK5MR/Continue5.jpg Part 4 Body Buffing & Pickguard To continue to Part 5 Finishing the Neck Choose: Slide show viewing or Single Page https://www.ronkirn.com/sitka-part5 daily 0.75 2020-04-17 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013934304-KJLJMWYXKJXOZY0JTSCT/Spruce261.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Time to convert a well lacquered neck into the business end of a great guitar. First thing to do is adjust the truss rod. I don’t use some over-priced specialized tool. This is because I know the neck is not level, and a few thousandths variation is normal, thats why we do a fret leveling. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013934305-VA599KGI5HXMMRFAGJED/Spruce262.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Further, every neck made needs to have the frets leveled to achieve optimum playability, every one. Sure, with very high action you can get away without it, but if you want em lighting fast, you gotta do it. So take a reasonable straightedge. I’m using a framing square here, ‘cause it was close at hand. Anything of reasonable straightness will do. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013934496-H89RXV34GN5SB2K1IYVY/Spruce263.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Adjust the truss rod, so that it’s “pulling” the neck to flatness as opposed to releasing the tension to get it there. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013934641-TFMOB0P8N8ZSGB4NVNT0/Spruce264.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Then use whatever method you’re comfortable with to secure the neck so you have full access to all the frets, all the time and it doesn’t scoot all over the work bench. I just use a piece of MDF screwed to the workbench. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013934848-9UDXVGVM0RTI3J7Z69EI/Spruce265.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck And a screw through the tuning key hole. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013934916-YEBZ958E1YATVSCZZ5CD/Spruce266.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Now, using a ridged flat (should be certifiably flat) piece of whatever. Attach an abrasive. Here I am using a piece of Corian, with 180 grit resin backed sanding tape. Corian is a wonderful material around the shop. Flat, rigid and machines with any woodworking tools, although carbide is recommended. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013935067-9JC4ECBXFRTZPBVTN4OZ/Spruce267.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Take a marker and mark the top of each fret, this will allow you to see the progress much easier. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013935182-IVL2EJKDQP4V83SE25EO/Spruce268.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck All ready to rock. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013935438-QWV2U96FA5XSXAWBOQ1R/Spruce269.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Now I start scrubbing up and down the neck. Allow the weight of the tool to do the work. If you start pressing, even very rigid tools can flex slightly, but by allowing gravity to hold ‘er in place, the cutting is equalized over the entire fret board. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013935437-0GNNHWQDXVSDH18UIJMU/Spruce270.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck This is the results after about 5 passes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013935717-6RTECJGVDXN0064QB2I8/Spruce271.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Here you can see the frets as they are being cut. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013935765-O51B8JA98OY9BCHM4MLN/Spruce272.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck And in this shot, all are leveled, except one. There is always a stubborn one. But you stay with it, allowing the tool to cut all the frets down to the one that is so obstinate. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013936024-OQU7PPY0FFDTKOH15OEV/Spruce273.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Now we have ‘em all under control, each one level relative to the others. Here’s a trick of the trade.. frets above the 12th are the ones that give the most trouble for achieving fast action, or for bending notes. Take your leveling tool and apply pressure take these frets down a crack, while not affecting those below the 12th any more. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013936023-SB6M7K14X1MG7KZ8984B/Spruce274.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck What this does is cut those frets a few ten thousandths lower that the others, allowing for slightly more clearance for the strings. Some neck manufacturers are now offering this as a service, but since the neck needs to be leveled, what’s the point? https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586827905466-NXLLBJVX7GMPIHYNRKT2/Spruce275.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck This bugger’s done. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013936988-YKO6CGQP008CWSY6H3TF/Spruce279.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013936989-LFL3TNE9LQ0I6T28TJAA/Spruce280.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Ok time to finish the frets. One of the few tools you cannot make, or find a substitute for is a fret crowning file. You gotta take the leap, and get a real fret file. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013937243-UPNVAAY0KOSK3C25AG9X/Spruce281.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Here I gave ya a time stamp, to give ya an idea how quickly this goes. Crowning the fret correctly is a matter of watching the crown. The leveling tool leaves scratches from the sandpaper across the frets, and the crowning leaves scratches along the length. So you can see what’s happening. It’s crowned, when you can just see a faint amount of the leveling marks remaining, just a hint. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013936718-DYRVJAG51QM315P3D6Q3/Spruce276.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck To polish them, I save most of my old sand paper, just for this occasion. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013936433-TEHA3T2AHN8YTOT3RLCF/Spruce277.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Then using whatever method suits you to protect the fingerboard, start sanding each one. I’m using 400 grit here. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013936735-4RWMGUJYVCYGZVF6NS33/Spruce278.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck To protect the fingerboard, tape works well too. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013938012-IDFW5O68QBUJWZSB85SP/Spruce282.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Once that’s accomplished, I mark the heel So I know it’s been leveled. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013938266-KJ7H4GNYXCPEVE4IHJGI/Spruce284.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Time to wet sand the neck. Here I use a small block, a piece of Corian again and 600 wet or dry paper. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013939110-L8LW0HPWWOYWSJY48KJ1/Spruce286.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Pay attention to the details, use a flat block and be careful around the curves, it’s easy to sand right through here. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013938477-E7V2PYRYHB0RJAYH26DW/Spruce285.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Once you think you’re through, back into the sunlight, check closely for those elusive shiny areas, they indicate a low spot that hasn’t been hit by the wet sanding yet. I mask off the fingerboard so I can sand the rosewood behind the nut, it gives a more complete detailed appearance. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013939108-VVY836STH3LRXRKC94U6/Spruce287.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Note the edge where the lacquer can accumulate. Sand until it’s all level. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013939380-0Z72D3VVYQI3KU36Y9YA/Spruce288.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck I now use a specially designed tool to support the neck, this one I believe was designed by a guy named Phillips. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013939447-NX0EY27R75Y2V8614QBZ/Spruce289.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Using the block, I sand the edge of the fingerboard. I continue until the lacquer edge it completely “feathered” into the wood, so you cannot feel the edge. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013939644-IHWERB9CUG2GBZTY7EHN/Spruce290.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Once the edge is done, I sand about ½ inch onto the back of the neck using a rolling motion to keep the block flat with the neck. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013939662-UEI002ED8FSHZ77A2JB8/Spruce291.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Once the neck is done with the sanding block, I will now go over it all by hand. I wet sand using mineral spirits. I’ll repeat everything with 800 grit after I do the initial sanding with 600. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013939771-JXSEVKOEJ9AHJSB0R1AD/Spruce292.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck As usual, go over everything visually looking for the tale-tale, shiny spots, and sand ‘em before moving on. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013939832-QN2D54QXJV2H8599HHQM/Spruce293.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013939948-EN5L3LQLBRKBBWOO3YZO/Spruce294.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Once that’s done you should have a nice consistent matte, or semi matte surface begging for polishing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013940070-LN8JP6OC8I9M1RGCZ1CH/Spruce295.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Most people want a matte back of the neck, as do I. So I don’t polish the back of the neck. The matte finish is vastly superior to the sprayed semi gloss clear coats manufacturers use, and gives the neck the feel of a well played naturally worn neck. Instead, I mask off areas. This gives a clean delineation between the gloss and the matte areas, it just looks nice too. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013940137-4D7QZZ1G1SXTK700BTU3/Spruce296.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Charge, load, or whatever you wanna call it, put some polishin’ stuff on the buffing wheel… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013940230-W42NE6FED86IFTTLW7BK/Spruce297.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck and start polishing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013940273-T65KX8OQ86LNQF8L67WW/Spruce298.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck If using a power buffing machine, stop every so often to keep heat from building up. Heat is not your friend here, unless you have been doing this a very long time and learned how to use the heat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013940432-06Z7IPUDEF25S4MX2EMV/Spruce299.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck By now you should have a beautifully polished neck. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013940440-97MZJSVL9XVLCW91CCPT/Spruce300.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013940587-OH8B43TMKUT6R2DLWDQM/Spruce301.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Ready for the home stretch… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013940667-Y72O29VOMROMOVR56267/Spruce302.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck I’ve already sanded with 400 grit, no polishing is really required. The act of playing the guitar will press the strings into the frets burnishing them. But that’s not the way I do it, mine go out so highly polished, I get calls asking how I do it…. Hehehe my little secret.. gotta keep a few cards hidden. But now I dab oil onto the fingerboard. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013940878-VQ63S4HCW53XS2GF1AQ7/Spruce303.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Then sit it aside for a couple of hours to let it soak into the wood. I use any number of oils, lemon oil is great and easy to find. Do not use oils that dry. Tung oil, linseed oil and such are not good choices. After allowing the oil to be absorbed, I clean the excess thoroughly. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013940942-W0IAHTDGG5FT216DTGXW/Spruce304.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck The final step. I give it a good coat of a quality wax, one with a high carnauba wax content, and this is the results of the masking. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013941077-B2LM93LFFVFKA3IXNPB0/Spruce305.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013941221-GISJI3I5G4RR3OPBSZIJ/Spruce306.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Installing the keys isn’t too difficult, but this is how I do ‘em…. Shaller Locking. Note that most of them are staggered today, that means the posts are shorter on some. Place the shorter posts on the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd strings. Some will have 3 lengths, the middle length would go on the 3rd and 4th in that case. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013941651-OU24NK3Q592FP92Q123U/Spruce307.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Even if you ordered your neck drilled for the specific keys you are installing, you are going to find they will still need reaming. For Kluson vintage style ream the face until the ferrules slide about ½ way in. For Schaller and Sperzel, ream the back side until the key fits. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013941761-QW8354O5WFXQDSVFZX9M/Spruce308.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Be very careful reaming. I recommend getting a real reamer. A drill bit will grab the soft wood, chip lacquer, split headstock. You want something that removes wood slowly. A Dremel works well too. This does not have to be a precision fit, just snug. I have a rotary file that is the exact size, I use it to complete what I began with the ream. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013942755-9FD4L82263QR9E8HWM19/Spruce309.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Reaming leaves lacquer curled up... remove it with a small countersink by hand, and then place the keys in the holes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013942767-NJHK4K5XY2NPPLMVDKL5/Spruce310.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck I use a small relatively straight edge to position the keys so they aren’t skewed relative to each other. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013943153-P1CDW4XBVM8ZSIS0U1ZU/Spruce311.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Now give each a light rap with whatever… just something soft so you don’t scratch the keys. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013943251-8RL5790JKPRVKLBGXLIY/Spruce312.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Which leaves a slight dimple marking the location of the pins that secure the keys and keep them from rotating. I now take an awl and mark then for drilling. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013943999-GYTEL31JIQVCRDZ11WIL/Spruce313.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck The tape is self explanatory. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013944115-ZSMY0WCP1L1BIJTDY7H7/Spruce314.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Now… drill away. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013944234-S4ZQSE4330VVNKY1HCWZ/Spruce315.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Clean the shavings and insert the keys. Screw in the bushings finger tight. NOTE - on Schaller and Sperzel, the threads are very fine and cut into soft metal, stop at any sign of resistance. You can cross thread these babies at the drop of a hat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013944326-JRKYBRZ4FWAO8ZOKKWKQ/Spruce316.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Now, tighten with the appropriate socket, 10mm for Schaller, 7/16 for Sperzel. And use a CLEAN socket, not the one you used to take the lawn mower apart last weekend. We now have a very nice neck. And no, I cannot put the retainer in yet. Next up, the nut… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013944475-DU99Q1U0NI4TWYXJFVJA/Spruce317.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck I stock the curved nuts, and re cut it where necessary for a flat nut slot. No rocket science here, just be sure to hold it flat to the work table so the bottom is at 90 degrees. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013945516-GTPN7FAPNR6KZB3NKIXX/Spruce318.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Before and after. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013945526-6ZYFJL0YG3MRHW3I8V3V/Spruce319.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck The raw nut is rarely the correct thickness, so it has to be lapped down to the correct size. I just use apiece of 320 grit on a good flat work surface. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013945664-75NEIIOL1QL6Q7VXEA63/Spruce320.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Working it back and forth, making sure to apply even pressure and check often, what you want is a snug fit. Snug meaning you can press it in, and get it back out. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013945930-DWQXQZ1YQH5K84IX8AT7/Spruce321.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck In the last pic, you can see the nut doesn’t fit in all the way, so back to the sand paper. I forgot to photograph it, but I use a dial caliper to check to see that it’s consistent along the length. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013946001-Z6M0HUHG7UN8LJZHY8GI/Spruce322.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck It fits… so let’s get it ready for the slots. A raw nut is entirely too high and wide. So I mark it as seen here, I just leave enough so that I can slot it, then finalize the height. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013946171-ELV7PRXGSE0VXT8ZMNJC/Spruce323.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013946500-N9J4CNTYHI0LSDOVEDDS/Spruce324.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Now back to the disk sander. I use the stick to press it against the disk, and pressure with my finger to hold it flat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013946494-23PYHM2GQXMBHXWN5UNO/Spruce325.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Now the ends…. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013946619-F0Z1QINHXNUVMIR8JEZ9/Spruce326.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck I just stay with it until it’s the correct length. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013946700-ARW8K1VNGRTF65OF3845/Spruce327.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Now I cut the 1st and 6th string slots, allowing for enough relief at the edges. Some like ‘em very close to the edges, some like ‘em all bunched up about in one notch. It just depends on what has been requested. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013946761-1WAUN28DBRPEAXRG7S13/Spruce328.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Once those are cut, they become a reference for the Stew Mac nut slotting ruler. This is 25 bux well spent if you’re doing several guitars, and I know you will, won’t ya? https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013946938-YTCHY6CYM3DP6QM1BG67/Spruce329.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Using the Stew Mac tool, I mark the location of the remaining notches. The tool automatically spaces each string so they are visually evenly spaced. If you space them with dividers or other means of marking, while correctly spaced, they look uneven due to the different gauges. I use an X-Acto knife, with the tip of the blade broken off, this gives a very fine scratch tool that just fits inside the slots on the Stew Mac tool. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013947005-TI1523RCJJNIWFNXY73A/Spruce330.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Once it’s marked, I go over it lightly with a pencil to highlight the marks. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013947223-4NWHH23SYGZV6O3BJ4KE/Spruce331.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Now I use one of the smaller nut files to cut a preliminary slot. I use the smaller file because it’s easier to see down the sides to get the slot cut exactly on the mark. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013947299-O18WS0DVWKER6ZWDA5TF/Spruce332.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Now, I follow up with the correct file for the correct slot. I do not try to cut them to the correct depth now. That happens during final setup, after I finish shaping the nut and polishing it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013947906-INL8P971OL6IMNUUVGUA/Spruce333.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Now, it’s time to place the string retainer. I use a high precision tool to simulate the location of the 1st and 2nd strings… a string. I tape it to the fingerboard, run it down across the 1st string nut slot, around the key, loop it under and around the second key, across the 2nd string slot and tape the end. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013947970-F5B502NWM4KJNZ6KC20P/Spruce334.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013948280-80FHF078B2ZJE60XR6BA/Spruce335.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck Now take the retainer, place it over the string in the correct location, take an awl and mark the location of the screw. Drill a pilot hole and run it in. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013948402-00IO0GZKCLSNEVWSK25D/Spruce336.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck As a tip, I always coat the screws with bee’s wax, an old candle will suffice too. This facilitates running the screw in what can be very hard wood. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013948691-LXTZ8K7TAUHI472OBGIP/Spruce337.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck This baby’s done. The nut will be finished after set up. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013948689-K3BOIVBOXYZMS4RUPU5T/Spruce338.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck I’ll now make myself a subtle note to remind myself of anything I need to know when I begin final assembly in a few days. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586916133510-B2F77QMVBL8POZE8IHKK/Continue6.jpg Part 5 Finishing the Neck To continue to Part 6 Final Assembly Choose: Slide show viewing or Single Page https://www.ronkirn.com/sitka-part6 daily 0.75 2020-04-17 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014027345-RZW5K1I3D02KGF836997/Spruce345.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Now that the body is lacquered, wet-sanded, and polished, it’s time to get out one more little tool to finish it off. WARNING! Do not attempt the following, this is a demonstration only. On my guitars, take an extra step and recess the neckplate, the back tremolo spring cover plate, and front the jack plate. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014027540-VM0P83OLM8JOYPVH6ZQW/Spruce346.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly I cannot make a generic template to rout for these components because they always show up made to slightly different measurements. So I first take a template I have made that is a few thousandths too small for most neck plates, and start cutting and testing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014027612-VVNK97DEAP71WJ6MMQN7/Spruce347.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly I rout a little and check depth. I want the surface of the neck plate to sit just a few thousandths above the surrounding lacquer so that nothing will snag on the lacquer’s edge, which could cause cracks or chips. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586868945695-FR8RI6FNJHWP3OIUXN5S/Spruce348.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly I now make the first pass with the router, then try the fit… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014027822-67ELPUSSCEKW6LOZ2DF1/Spruce349.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Checking the fit. I do not want to have to press it in. It should drop freely but with no more than the thickness of a piece of paper around it. Why? Because the wood will shrink and swell, the lacquer gets brittle over time, shrinking wood + brittle lacquer + non yielding steel plates = cracks. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014027886-9QER76JXHSATNCEKT5HL/Spruce350.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly If it fits, and sometimes it does, it’s good to go. But if not, more cutting and testing. I keep a handful of neck plates ready to go because since they’re different sized I may luck out and find one that fits perfectly, but if not…. rout.. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014028007-G7SR7Q1EIZHLXS0SDAC0/Spruce351.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly I note the position of the router during the first pass. Place the router back in the template, turn it on, and carefully move it to one corner, and rotate the router 1/8 turn, and make another pass around the periphery of the template. In doing this, am enlarging the recess by about 1/32” each time, using the inherent and minute inaccuracies of the router to my advantage. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014028099-882QG09XYLNZZBKYSYR3/Spruce352.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly An example of a perfect fit (in scrap). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014028202-AS79ZPN9C0PMD9XMJ26Y/Spruce353.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly White knuckle time… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586873160954-TXXANDT3Q6CTRECWR30Y/Spruce354.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Take the plate and locate it over the screw holes… note, when you tighten the screws the countersunk design will force the neckplate in the direction as indicated by the relationship of the screw hole to the hole in the plate. They rarely are perfect. So you want the plate to get forced AWAY from the thin edges of the body. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586874389264-112JQSLDNKD0A4K23DGP/Spruce355.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly I cover the back side of the template with paper towel to prevent scratches, and use a light mist of 3M – 77 spray adhesive to hold it. NOT double stick tape. I avoid tape whenever possible. The solvents in tape glue can eat into lacquer. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586875071732-174BX8E86ZB1RNZ4V6HJ/5-5.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Now carefully place the template over the neck plate without bumping it like I do 9 out of 10 times. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014028487-E7D6E565EC4FN8GGNR9M/Spruce356.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly And gently clamp it in position. This is another “feel” thing. Clamp too hard, the lacquer cracks. Too little and the template moves while routing, converting the body, and hours of work thus far, into firewood. So, no big deal. I give it a little tug to be absolutely certain it’s not going to move with the light pressure of the router against the template. I say a little prayer, and rout the mutha… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014028686-219M9ED5IAZ27R5FB9FI/Spruce357.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Then I repeat the routing like I did in the test. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586878112490-GGIKZTIDINS546V084H2/Spruce358.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly And take a dry paper towel and lightly burnish the lacquer “fuzz” off the edge. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586878551145-31QP0Y5E5WENARUMSV47/Spruce382.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Now it’s double whammy white knuckle time. BTW regarding the templates, I made them by hand with files, sanding drums and whatever I could find. There are an awful lot of details that go into making a template, it is NOT as simple as marking a shape and cutting it out. A lot of detail, skill, and experience goes into making a functional template. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014034282-VIHKD9C3SH74WTPKM2FO/Spruce383.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly After YOU have made your template, you gotta test it… so cut one in scrap whatever, about .030 +/- deep… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586879305725-FJVMBUNNCQWGHXIERCB4/Spruce384.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Check with the jack plate upside down. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586879405915-IMSYR6JGLFC0WYDWZPYS/Spruce386.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly When it fits upside down, create the recess to fit it right side up. You can not depend on the fit upside down, these things are never perfectly symmetrical. I do this for every single jack plate I fit, because they are all slightly different. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014034549-8VS2AH7MZHSXNGWHKD69/Spruce385.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014034737-G6RB1IU2A2U2BGIAL5G5/Spruce387.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly When the fit on your template is perfect, you can place it on the body. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014034950-5HJUA2JR2YGLOU72O30C/Spruce390.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Take the template and carefully place it over the work area. Without moving the template, remove the jack plate, and clamp it down. Again, carefully as to secure it sufficiently, but without cracking the lacquer. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014034814-XAIGBKBV6APSSZOSGEB9/Spruce388.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Now using the template guide and bit. The bit needs to be no larger than 3/16th diameter to cut the radius for the sharp round point. And I begin to make the cut. I just nip the top of the body cavity to check depth.. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014034863-SYCUCOR8S6EBONR2TZOM/Spruce389.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly If it looks good, I continue to cut out the whole area. It’s a fine line between perfection and firewood. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014035048-OER9H28439IBI05D1G0U/Spruce391.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Because the underside is rounded due to the stamping process, you must relieve the hard edge. I use a Dremel. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014035154-HSXIWL3QKZVDRT07IE68/Spruce392.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly And this is what you wind up with. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014031348-RP9HEAN0FGEH3M7UDSCC/Spruce371.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Whew. But not done yet, the trem plate is next. First I have to mount the tremolo. I put a little tape, to be removed quickly, on the surface so I can draw pretty pictures. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014030553-CD0YXGIZ1IIL4O72V91M/Spruce370.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Position the tremolo so the first string bridge is about 12 ¾ from the 12th fret, and mark the position. That’s what all the lines are above. I mark max forward, max back and full right and left, then position the tremolo in the middle of the marks. This gives clearance all around for full tremolo action. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014031685-H8S9I4JMWL7QAKOIU68Y/Spruce372.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Now just take an awl of the same diameter as the screw holes and give a light twist. This will mark the location for the screw holes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014038543-DZYC6PD3IXWY429I8UYY/Spruce413.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Drill your pilot holes and mount the tremolo. This is a Wilkinson Vintage Trem, steel trem block, a great tremolo. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014038694-EJ6KU01S0ORKYWHOTGMY/Spruce414.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Before I mount the tremolo with the permanent screws, I temporarily mount it with a few small screws to lock its location so I can place the tremolo spring cover plate in the correct location. I tighten screws until there is about 1/8th clearance across the back and it is level relative to the surface of the guitar. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014031867-59U61V19YBYMTNKTYMFO/Spruce373.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly I now place the tremolo over the tremolo unit aligning the string holes in the block with the access holes in the plate. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014032029-BHBM3F2SDJ30JVYUZNAX/Spruce374.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Then I outline it with tape. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014032220-UD4SN6DMC64ZQG2QKATG/Spruce375.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014032353-AJ2A6NM2QJWT70QPB60C/Spruce376.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly But first, back to the testing. Chromed tremolo spring cover plates are not uniform in dimension either, so you have to be accurate. Take the template and cut a test in scrap. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014032538-KPV2HF3CYCIOA7ZHM1BQ/Spruce377.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Using the same methodology as with the neck plate, rotate the router to get a perfect fit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014032603-78UKPRDW67DMP250MXSW/Spruce378.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Check carefully. This is big, where little mistakes jump out and grab ya. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014032716-Z9ODCE7H6PJLTCVJFEQP/Spruce379.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Once there, align the template with the tape outline. Extreme precision in placement is not necessary, there’s plenty of wiggle room, you want it square relative to the body. Mount the template and clamp, don’t crack the lacquer, check to be certain it isn’t going to move. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014032959-GROAB0XFC0HU6JN37DRF/Spruce380.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Then try a couple of test cuts to verify depth. Again I want the cover to stand proud of the surrounding surface just a few thousandths, so nothing snags on the lacquer’s edge. Then follow the same procedure that gave you the perfect results during the test cut. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014033016-049Y72TZIJ5JI64BMRWO/Spruce381.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly The results. Not too shabby. Next up.. enough shielding to fend off a Romulan attack… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014035350-5JGQLWDOD41UQQU04KUR/Spruce394.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly While it can be argued which method works best, conductive paint, conductive adhesive metal foil, plain sheet metal, or the type of metal, what ever you choose will suffice. I use copper sheet…plain and simple. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014035232-RHI9N3LQFKR1R4DJQZZH/Spruce393.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly I use the templates I used for the body to outline the bottoms of the various cavities. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014035408-FOZKYKV8WYDR3K8HBGEJ/Spruce395.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly And cut em out. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014035664-5MQNKUSUI3AS0JU6GYV9/Spruce396.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Once they’re all cut out, I smooth ‘em out with a socket. It’s hard, smooth and presses ‘em really nicely. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014035733-H3464EKMEKSVX5JTFI53/Spruce397.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Now, I burnish it with a 3M abrasive pad, so when someone takes a peek, it looks nice ‘n pretty. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014035813-5VOSATSIR0OBU2UILCDV/Spruce398.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly You should have 4 nice flat pieces, ready for insertion. I use plenty of “guitar assembly grease” too, seen here. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014035874-N0Y49ZS6QQIGSB1GZXX4/Spruce399.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Now place them in the cavities, no adhesive required. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014036083-9T62SJLFZT3OY0RJZNXD/Spruce400.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly I cut a strip 1 ½ by whatever the width of the roll of copper I currently have is, flatten and burnish, and spray the back with 3M-77 adhesive. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014036205-26OSP8VO2THDW2IO3AAE/Spruce401.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Now I carefully (it’s sticky as heck) thread the copper around the edge of the cavity. I press it firmly against the sides, first with my fingers, then do the corners with a hard tool. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014036265-PWQ5SR8EB3138SSX84ZW/Spruce402.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Now cut a few ¾ inch strips. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014036405-1ZVYYHLYY5MF0KYXA0MP/Spruce403.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Press ‘em with the socket, burnish ‘em with the 3M pad, spray the back, and thread ‘em around the cavities. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014037061-U1HJ38MSNFPY9SRKLQHQ/Spruce404.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014037312-3URNV5BPLCHDZW8H3GM8/Spruce405.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly I begin soldering in the electronics cavity. IMPORTANT - quick fast heat here. The back of the guitar is only about 1/8th inch away. Go nuts with the solder gun, and you will also go nuts when you flip it over only to discover burnt, bubbled lacquer. So small dots about an inch apart, and be quick about it. If it doesn’t catch the first time, move on. Do another section and return when it has completely cooled. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014037372-A5WT82VCDQX2CTUBF9W1/Spruce406.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Go all the way around. I add the little tab to make solid secure ground contact with the pickguard shield. I’ll trim it later. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014037638-VIQ0642CLJXPZ3UUXSDU/Spruce407.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014037744-CNILCN1LFBXY8MQADN4G/Spruce408.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Then I go back with an awl and open the wiring access holes, one through to the spring cavity, and the other to the jack plate cavity. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014037971-FRU7TMUUNS9ROGBMON6T/Spruce409.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly It is now a matter of assembling the parts. I begin with the Jack plate, thread the wires through the hole into the electronics cavity. I do not shield the Jack rout. It’s not necessary. Spiraling the wires as seen here accomplishes the same thing as using a shielded wire. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014038047-KQFKL4G335ZFAGFI2SZJ/Spruce410.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly I take an awl and locate the start point for the screw. Remember, it’s recessed and I don’t want the countersunk screw off center shoving the plate into the edge of the recess… crack!!!! BTW, I forgot to photograph soldering the pickguard and related electronics, but I did that too. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014038148-TAHEJY6FGTFYOL24NGT3/Spruce411.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly I’ll run in a screw or 2 to secure the location of the pickguard, then place the tremolo to be certain the “dimples” I cut earlier still bring everything into alignment. If good, drill the pilot holes, and countersink them slightly to keep the lacquer from chipping. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014038416-XD4AJB1KMZDA0ALRNJOG/Spruce412.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014029226-2HWHPNYGHVJ6OAIADF61/Spruce363.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly The little block is a piece of MDF I cut precisely square so the smooth bottom would ride the bottom of the neck pocket, and the edge with sandpaper attached would cut the width exactly at 90 degrees. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014039217-O2KMESVMJO0RE2GJBIRC/Spruce419.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly It’s finally time to string er up and convert it from a collection of parts, into a musical instrument. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014039279-Y0A9YRWZZ0X8OKXZ1SVJ/Spruce420.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly First thing I do is check the relief at the low frets. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014040238-PQG8ITPNPL1O6FZNEV3C/Spruce421.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly And check again. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014038742-GLSRGPEH0KAQW4QLP1PS/Spruce415.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly More details. Those cheap plastic parts, even on the 6000 masterbuilts just blow my mind. So the switch tip, with sharp mold lines gets worked. I put a dab of CA on it to hold the tip, then chuck it into a drill. I then hold it against some 320 grit, and while it’s spinning and watch until the casting lines are gone. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014038889-W44ZGQ7NOCBL0OFBZXVV/Spruce416.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly I then move up to 800 grit and continue until it has a nice matte sheen. Once ready, I’ll step over to the buffing wheel, on slow, and polish it. It now looks like ivory. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014039061-SV1JHC3X9UMTJS8VUR5X/Spruce418.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly I normally remove the tip from the Tremolo arm too, but this is a Wilkinson Vintage, and it doesn’t seem to want to come off, so I’m not going to force it. Protect the arm so the sand paper doesn’t scratch it, then sand by hand, same grits, then polish. And ivory again. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014038957-E3D7SB99T89IFE29O8VU/Spruce417.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Now… I guess I’ll use D’Addario 11’s. String ‘er up. Want me to show ya that too? Nah… I didn’t think so. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014029796-U4MJNCQH4WLRX76BEZ2D/Spruce368.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly And I mark the back of the neck plate. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014028880-SZ78MM8IDPCG2KRFZXGR/Spruce359.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly I’ll now check the neck pocket fit. Since I made the body while the neck was being made by Tommy (USACG) I couldn’t do this until after the fact. Necks can vary by as much as a 1/16th of an inch. But here it’s damn close, but the corner radius is different. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014029014-JMGZLC5BXX776TYGB2JN/Spruce361.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly So I Dremel it… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014029159-EMVCULMRWMC5CKQ9BTYN/Spruce362.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly and sand the edges. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014029288-040NZCKJV9R5UD3KR8TF/Spruce364.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly I also sand any accumulated crud, lacquer, whatever, from the neck pocket. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014029505-0D2ZEU5V99HRJ18ZZLXE/Spruce365.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly I then apply a liberal coat of paste wax to the neck and neck pocket walls. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586910927053-YCT8L4SIBUZTWO70YY9W/Spruce366.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Then slip it in. That is what a neck pocket and neck should look like. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014029633-KLIROQF81JOT7MM9W67M/Spruce367.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Now’s the time for any commemorative notations. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014040503-2JRMRNM2HWL6H6A4OEMO/Spruce422.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly I now cut each slot to bring the action down to something close to playable. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014030552-ZY8F7A8W4VTGM5ONDWI0/Spruce369.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Add a bit of bee’s wax, and carefully run the screws in. As the heads come into contact with the neck plate, I watch carefully and gradually work the screws in, allowing them to work against each other, so they will seat perfectly center. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014040632-THK7STZPTSHZU5GSB0TP/Spruce423.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Now I’ll get the saddles dialed in, adjusting each until the action at the 15th is about 1/16 inch. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014040895-4UMKT35LN6DOSN94NAML/Spruce424.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly I’ll also get the intonation approximated. Now, just to be certain, I’ll fret the G 3rd at the 1st and 20th fret and check the clearance around the 7th or so, it should be a few thousandths, about the thickness of a business card. If not, adjust the truss rod, about 1/8th turn at a time. Now it’s a matter of going back and forth between the nut and the bridge, to get low action. Once I can play it with minimal buzzing at the height, I’ll raise it to real world action and call it done. Almost… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586913506379-6BMA5LUZH89JSB18IP4S/Spruce425.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly I tune ‘er up. Stretch the strings. Retune. Let ‘er sit. Retune. Then pick a string open. And at the 12th fret. And check the tuner, if flat, move the bridge toward the neck. If sharp, move it away. Retune, check again. And adjust accordingly. Do that on all strings. Check the tuner to ensure the note played on an open string is harmonious with the same note played at the 12th. I play the harmonics of the open notes at the 7th fret and again at the 19th. If it works, it’s good to go. Then I allow the guitar to sit at least a day, several if possible, to give the wood a chance to get acclimated to the tension of being under pressure. Then I’ll repeat the entire setup, fine tuning as I go. Ain’t no Pleck ever came back the next day and double checked. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586868219358-SXRS3J1KEP9FLEKQCRTG/111.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Just a touch on each end of the slot, about at the location of the 2nd and 5th strings, and run a small line between them. That’s it. Slip the nut into the slot, clean any ooze that may squeeze out, and tune ‘er up. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586868219692-9XOUMLW1JZ42KNGJIWF5/112.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly For those arguing that a nut’s gotta be solid to make for “best” tone, get outta here. Tone schmone. The nut only comes into play tone wise on 6 notes. Every other note on the guitar has a finger and fret, or a slide, or a capo between the note and the nut. So if you have good nut material, and a lot of the junk too, you will be fine, and the nut can be removed with a mild tap to one end. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586868220107-N23M9RCLFTDQOKK827G9/114.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Just a bit more finishing, then I’ll prep her for her travel to her new life. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586868218947-MKSFOBK47X9GZU03APBR/108.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Once the guitar is properly setup, the nut slots will be way too deep. They should not cradle the string any more than ½ the diameter of the string. After I’m happy with the playability, I remove the nut (it has not been glued yet). If the slots are very deep, I’ll return to the small disk sander to rough it down to final size. Then I sand the top with 600 grit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586868219008-40JUGFIX8E5CMHA0KMGF/109.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Then step over to the buffing machine and polish it (I forgot to take a pic). Once polished, I clean it thoroughly to remove any compound residue. Now, using my very exotic and expensive nut installation kit.. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586868219260-PVBXE3IFJO63ID3WGD4V/110.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly You don’t need to use the latest hyper strong adhesive to secure the nut. Someone, someday, might want to remove or replace it. I use wood glue, and a very small dab at that. I’ve had to reshape some necks and had to remove the old nuts. They were glued in with epoxy or CA, whatever it was, I darn near had to destroy the nut slot to get them out. That’s ridiculous. Wood glue is fine. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014041187-R63DU8S4KLT30IWDJ1RM/Spruce427.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly And this baby is done. That’s how I do it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014041391-C3GSZ36SK8QX9FJT1OLD/Spruce428.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014041126-76JK3G80N6NMXDSHP30A/Spruce426.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014041604-F5FI1M8YAB7SPOBWX6LX/Spruce430.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014041788-RQL4HLAZ3I3XAQOK36C2/Spruce431.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586913993470-UY2TUF5PAY7C4PBUO998/Spruce432.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014041461-56UYR8T7QAQRBDFBN0T9/Spruce429.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014042842-RR1HI5Z3PHYXGWX664WP/Spruce433.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014043664-M6KM6EYVV0RXLXWDASAZ/Spruce439.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014043140-6G2DXAKSUUSR9LICI2UY/Spruce435.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014043140-C0VDOR38XYHYX7P088EQ/Spruce436.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014043471-ZRC17C1OA18IA0KHTPJ6/Spruce437.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014043444-DM5WFMSBY4HTJGHNSVST/Spruce438.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492014042873-RAJY7XDYNFLJXFAHB5E0/Spruce434.jpg Part 6 - Final Assembly Click here to return to Builds https://www.ronkirn.com/404-error daily 0.75 2020-04-17 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1587130152978-5VHUBWFI8QAD38G2H436/Kirn-1.jpeg 404 Error https://www.ronkirn.com/ssb-part1-1 daily 0.75 2020-04-17 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113171079-ZVJEOSKUHWSUTZLW3TW1/2strattute01.jpg SSB Part1 A one piece Mahogany, and well dressed S. I have taken a 13 ½ inch wide section of Mahogany. Planed it to the approximate thickness, of 1 7/8 then using the panel sander to take it down to almost 1 ¾. Use the template to trace out the rough shape and bandsaw, or jig saw a basic blank. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113170900-5C44XZBXF3FJCLCHPOJG/2strattute02.jpg SSB Part1 I now mount the template firmly. No tape. I use wood screws..long ones. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113171178-NC1MKQ9V284YKPUF8TLG/2strattute03.jpg SSB Part1 Then waddle over to the router table and rout. One side of the edge only at this time. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113171388-9IR7323W40DMTJY8XYLD/2strattute04.jpg SSB Part1 The reason I only do half on one edge is I want to rout the tremolo spring cavity while the template is mounted. I will also drill the neck bolt holes too. Once that is done I am through with that template. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113171521-0S5O9ABS9CTMSYMQY85E/2strattute05.jpg SSB Part1 So first drill the bolt holes. Here’s where some err. Use a small square to be certain the table is at 90 Degrees to the drill bit. Otherwise, crooked holes and misaligned screws. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113171821-RLBW4LSVQGDZLM8GBRSO/2strattute06.jpg SSB Part1 After that or before, whatever you feel like, do the tremolo spring rout. I do it in 2 steps initially. Once it’s ¾ inch deep, remove the template. Were done with it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113172204-2R7DO92C23UPH3JU3N98/2strattute07.jpg SSB Part1 Now lets finish the spring rout. I place a block in the slot, and use a top bearing pattern tracing bit. Rout ½ of the remaining wood from the cavity. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113173150-SHS33XLK54FQ0H1WLEQ5/2strattute11.jpg SSB Part1 I indicate the approximate center of the body, because the contours of the Leo Fender years went beyond center. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113172452-ZY9LDG0H29KMT0287DKN/2strattute08.jpg SSB Part1 Then lower the bit to leave 1/8th inch remaining and rout the remainder. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113172778-C8V130A9CHNISMD8US22/2strattute09.jpg SSB Part1 So now we give the tremolo rout one more buzz to leave the 1/8th inch remaining at the top. I use an awl to indicate the location of the lower rout, so I can be certain the top template is aligned correctly when I get ready to break through the top. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113172952-TM6UZVZ5LXU6D08OFCIK/2strattute10.jpg SSB Part1 So here is where we are. This body will have a book matched Flame Maple Veneer applied, so first, I have to do the arm contour. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113173334-USM7TA06GY2P95YKDU9D/2strattute12.jpg SSB Part1 I indicate that approximate area I want to have the contour roll into the flat top. Remember, the contours are NOT compound. They are flat on one axis while rolling on the other. If you think of a large flat sanding surface, and held the body against it and rolled it only in one direction...that IS the way Fender did it in the real days. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113173488-83THVP0V5BM193LI6HVO/2strattute13.jpg SSB Part1 Now using a delicate, dainty little tool... it has a whisper little wirrr, I remove anything that doesn’t look like an S type body. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113173717-X2BFBRU7BL61UY6SDSMF/2strattute14.jpg SSB Part1 Oh, I mark the approximate place I want to stop. Taking wood off is easy, putting it back... not so much. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113173777-6KG9OO1VYY9HETTTZZNJ/2strattute15.jpg SSB Part1 So once it’s roughed out, I use my high precision contour shaping tool with 32 grit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113175178-D08R944CVKNVLTPFSO4K/2strattute16.jpg SSB Part1 Using it as indicated, it only takes a few strokes to get it close. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113174053-R1V2T6KKMJ2EMWPY4ZMG/2strattute17.jpg SSB Part1 Now take a pencil and scribble all over the area of the contour. The pencil lead will indicate any high areas that haven't been sanded yet. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113174329-7112962X7QQEPHCTXOU7/2strattute18.jpg SSB Part1 Now, continue sanding, watching the darkened areas as they disappear. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374115960935-QMQEFSHC778MDEHMA4FP/2strattute19.jpg SSB Part1 As I get close, I’ll change to a finer grade paper, about 80 grit, and continue until the darkened areas are removed, and the complete area appears evenly sanded. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374113174804-N542NRR0I7SGX79TQQ2Q/2strattute20.jpg SSB Part1 Now I use a tool I store 93 million miles away. It’s the best indicator you can find. The shadows will show any areas that aren’t evenly sanded and will reveal any lumps in the continuous roll of the contour. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114408143-MQQ0F1ZLJF3QCTPPZ4AR/2strattute21.jpg SSB Part1 Once the top contour it perfect, it’s time to move on. I select two sheets of Maple Veneer and begin matching it. Book Matched lumber rarely is, so you have to work with it to get the perfect alignment. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114408253-S5385P7ABM4ILGJ7MWTU/2strattute22.jpg SSB Part1 If you use them as they are cut, they look pretty good, but upon close examination, you can see some irregularities, so let’s fix it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114408547-0RGI5EDSIV2RRQXOXGZT/2strattute23.jpg SSB Part1 Adjust the veneer until you have a good pattern to the grain, and mark where the trim must be. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374116174814-XAW2N9K75DBZ47R3HCSA/2strattute24.jpg SSB Part1 Align the veneers so the cut will fall down the lines made. I clamp it between 2 pieces of Corian with very flat smooth edges. And using the router, make the cut. This gives 2 perfectly flat edges. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114409276-CZO5ZLY7JM1ZSO37WHKP/2strattute25.jpg SSB Part1 Before gluing, recheck the grain, and recut if necessary. Remember to consider what will actually be seen, by dealing with the small area a better match can be had. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114409281-WOCIR0VOLC236U71831U/2strattute26.jpg SSB Part1 Don’t forget to mark the body’s center so you can see it once the veneer is applied. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114409539-UU17OJFD1WS6Y7TVSFLR/2strattute27.jpg SSB Part1 Mark the body's center on both ends. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114409561-UTT8SN1C8MPWTKUNKDAL/2strattute28.jpg SSB Part1 Now match the veneer’s edges and tape it into one sheet. Then rough cut the shape out of the veneer. Use scissors, X-Acto knife, whatever…. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114409830-IHEPI3GM71KPO207SSWH/2strattute29.jpg SSB Part1 And glue it all up. I use good ‘ol yellow wood worker’s glue and a small paint roller. The secret to quality veneering is good complete glue coverage. I roll it on the body first, because it won’t curl up on ya, then on the veneer. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114409852-8329TRCZEM3U82U2VYKB/2strattute30.jpg SSB Part1 Note the even application. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114409534-VX4VGD019CAU1GQIBDH8/2strattute31.jpg SSB Part1 And on the veneer. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114410325-R35UH9KKTRX0Q1LJ1A6X/2strattute32.jpg SSB Part1 Now smack ‘em together aligning the center seam with the center marks on the body. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114410310-PFZMGRQU2LBYM3FROF8J/2strattute33.jpg SSB Part1 Now even consistent pressure is necessary. You can use vacuum presses, plastic bags and a vacuum cleaner… or clamps…. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114410666-7KIV54LQX4BN4PIHVG5B/2strattute34.jpg SSB Part1 My choice, apply a couple of pads I cut from “Non Slip” work table pads. You will notice the “block” I have made to take up the void left by the curve of the contour. To make it, I took a body, put down a sheet of plastic and filled it in with Auto Body Putty, let it harden and shaped it so the top would be flat with the pads. The pads are about ½" thick so they take up any inaccuracy as the filler block is used with other bodies. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114410643-H5FZ48HARQPZLN08U5Q8/2strattute35.jpg SSB Part1 I now put a top plate on the sandwich, this is Masonite. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114410993-TNUB7O753YK4F4LXUIS3/2strattute36.jpg SSB Part1 And begin clamping. As you are clamping check and re-check to be certain the center doesn’t drift off center. Wet glue is slippery. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114410994-6RCEEYNDYCKIFXTL6UI4/2strattute37.jpg SSB Part1 Only a few clamps are necessary... Then let it sit overnight. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114410893-4GQ3S6FHBI1RLDBLWK68/2strattute38.jpg SSB Part1 It’s pretty ugly at this point, but take a heat gun, hair dryer, or whatever to soften the well stuck tape and remove it. The heat allows the adhesive to release without pulling fibers or worse, chunks out of the veneer. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114411443-MPTW1ZA4AJZ52R7MSP76/2strattute39.jpg SSB Part1 Now to the router table to “clean” up the edges. Note that I have taken little “bites” out of the critical areas to reduce the chance of chipping the veneer. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114411753-1YCVVEL169CRQ9MRXEV5/2strattute40.jpg SSB Part1 Just be certain the router bit is set to allow for the different heights due to the forearm contour. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114411298-F8XTMIBNELCDHD2EO1MP/2strattute41.jpg SSB Part1 And we now are ready to resume shaping the body. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114412054-UD2BLXWS54P61V7F83XY/2strattute42.jpg SSB Part1 I’ll do a little preliminary sanding here just to be certain all is good, and there are no foibles that need to be addressed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114412144-HNJCYDAPAJOS59FKW9Y5/2strattute43.jpg SSB Part1 The blankets of rubber can leave their pattern on the surface of the veneer, so I’ll take a wet paper towel and Iron it. This forces the steam into the wood’s fibers causing the compressed veneer to swell. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114412299-1UPQCHFA6O49WKE3MKNR/2strattute44.jpg SSB Part1 Allow a few minutes for it to dry thoroughly, and sand lightly with a medium grit paper, 180 to 220 works fine. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114412416-LQLB278VTO1FGY421IVD/2strattute45.jpg SSB Part1 You can see how smooth it is at this stage. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114412773-G5TWELCNLNVXE5Z2ME57/2strattute46.jpg SSB Part1 Now… the other template. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114412852-AV4NJ407PO595WLD6ZUC/2strattute47.jpg SSB Part1 First thing I do is drive an awl through the tremolo cavity on both edges to indicate the location of the bottom rout. This way I can be certain the top rout will be correctly centered. It’s not impossible to be off by a 32nd or so, and while that isn’t a factor, it does drive me nuts. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114413050-DVWG082MBGJVD49ZRFO6/2strattute48.jpg SSB Part1 So now I rout the neck pocket. I do this in 2 steps, so I’m not forcing the router to take too much of a bite in one pass. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114413088-6BVRVJXYJR1KW6CXONAO/2strattute49.jpg SSB Part1 Do a little clean up, so there are no loose chips that can get snagged and rip some of the delicate edges loose. The block is a small piece of MDF ¾” square, and about 2 inches long. I make dozens and keep them handy. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374163808574-SOVOMD427VQRC0MX62KG/2strattute50.jpg SSB Part1 I now do the electronics, pickups, jack plate and tremolo routs. The tremolo is only one pass, the wood is only 1/8” thick here, so buzzzzz and it’s done. The other routs are done in 2 stages. First pass takes 3/8th out, and the second, the remaining 3/8th to give me a depth of 3/4 inch. Here you can see everything is the same depth. I have removed the template, and placed a block in the bridge pickup rout. This is so I can use the inside edge of what has already been routed, to take the electronics cavity on down to 1 1/2” deep. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374163749093-EVPCNTRXMZYKWJUAJP36/2strattute51.jpg SSB Part1 While doing the electronics cavity, do the jack hole too.. both will be 1 1/2inch deep, I Do this in 2 stages too. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114413763-LRBYXSZZ49R6TXXBZQKM/2strattute52.jpg SSB Part1 And that’s done. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114414098-OCTFAXN6UXWH6XUO87IQ/2strattute53.jpg SSB Part1 I might point out, in those shots you can really see how very little of the veneer needs to be closely matched for the book matched look. Most is covered by the Pickguard, so unless you’re going for a No PG look, don’t go crazy matching what is going to be routed away. ... Now is a good time to drill the wiring channels. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114414507-PEYQ7GUWR5Z1BYVR5TRK/2strattute54.jpg SSB Part1 Drilling the wiring channels. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114414875-EON1WSX47GOQJ0M1IRDG/2strattute55.jpg SSB Part1 Etc... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114415168-H3L30RA555F36Q5VDP6J/2strattute56.jpg SSB Part1 Just be very careful. The wood is very thin here and it’s quite easy to punch through to the back side. Also, I forgot to photograph it, but drill the relief inside the jack rout for the phone jack. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114415552-PQ7QA1KGEM7Y4FGE09Q0/2strattute57.jpg SSB Part1 Now on to the body’s round-over. While over the years there have been many different radii, ½” is the typically accepted norm for the vintage guitars. Some argue that up to 5/8th was used, but personally I feel that would have come as a result of sharpening and re-sharpening the ½” round-over bits. Each time you sharpen one, it gets a tad larger. As you go around, remember the arm contour, you must be careful not to go so far that the tracking bearing looses contact with the body. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114415874-F32534AZ171WFNRPOOXG/2strattute58.jpg SSB Part1 On the back, where the horns meet the neck pocket heel, stop short of the heel, the remaining wood gets hand shaped. This is before... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114416136-CA3WR46NNQN3YPD0U4I0/2strattute59.jpg SSB Part1 This is the highly technical tool used to shape it so it flows into the heel. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374114416393-KYACGKJ2I3H6MYZQJLQ0/2strattute60.jpg SSB Part1 And this is what she looks like when completed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374168148612-3OJU0SEQB7I2JG457TJJ/2strattute61.jpg SSB Part1 For the lower horn, I use a larger diameter sanding stick (technical term). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169340234-1KBJK41HGX3V81JA426K/2strattute62.jpg SSB Part1 And completed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374168148990-KKHPN278IO1W4TZPMZUM/2strattute63.jpg SSB Part1 Now, I move on to the fun part. I mark the body to give me some idea where the round over should roll into the flat top of the body. And using a sanding block, I work down to the line. Now this may look daunting, but it’s not. It goes quite fast and produces perfect results. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374168149256-F9S3ZY0YLU56N7DZAXVB/2strattute64.jpg SSB Part1 Once the initial cut is made, I make a second…. This illustrates the 3 primary cuts made with a sanding block. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374168149551-S6MGED9IDYCDUQY99ARD/2strattute65.jpg SSB Part1 Now just continue working, this time with a little finer paper, so you have better control. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374168149819-B5VI4PNJX53CP20U4HQH/2strattute66.jpg SSB Part1 If you use the routed round over as a guide, it’s easy to see where the area you’re working on needs more attention. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374168150112-PFCJ0F3BVM5E9U11QLDK/2strattute67.jpg SSB Part1 Now step into the sunlight, and allow it to reveal any subtle irregularities. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374168150374-C2YBBC5AZE73Z9FQR9E0/2strattute68.jpg SSB Part1 In the sunlight... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169646155-49LKW89NI9T1L7BAMZRT/2strattute69.jpg SSB Part1 Now, to the back, the tummy contour. Again the same delicate little tool and the finesse necessary to remove what doesn’t look like an S body. I mark the approximate extremities of the contour and remove wood until I get close. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374168151688-KOU43YZ9Q0XHX1J9CME9/2strattute70.jpg SSB Part1 There are 2 ways to finish the contour, one is with a spindle sander. I have made a jig to hold the body at the correct angle. This is the quick easy way. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374168153407-851PQKF2XGR9GNL2D5JE/2strattute71.jpg SSB Part1 While in the jig.. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374168153674-DXXHZ2G44251YHG273LK/2strattute72.jpg SSB Part1 Or for a more “tactile” approach, make a curved sanding block and sand. Using the pencil marks to indicate the areas that still need attention, continue until it is all evenly done. Follow up with a finer grit paper and that little facet is complete. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374168154323-ENF92P9YE2OLHAAMS0MQ/2strattute73.jpg SSB Part1 Now, you can see I have already marked the reference lined for the round over, so using the rounded sanding block, repeat the same process as used on the arm contour. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374168154554-4LXK6D791DMQ1E8FKQSR/2strattute74.jpg SSB Part1 First take it down to the first mark, at about 45 degrees to the surface. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374168154801-TP856EAT0SFYZ8PW2QRD/2strattute75.jpg SSB Part1 Then follow up with a second cut at about 22 ½ degrees… on both sides of the 45 degree bevel. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374173080616-58SEFS8FAINQFVBTI4TI/2strattute76.jpg SSB Part1 And finish up by sanding with a finer grade paper to produce the round over. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374168155702-WPQNMD4XSQT40UEAA0AX/2strattute77.jpg SSB Part1 Give it a good sanding then step into the sunlight to check the progress. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169027205-PP8WIT1SPJ90O4R4QL5W/2strattute78.jpg SSB Part1 The sunlight trick may seem rather simplistic, but once you try it, you will see exactly how revealing it can be, far more than a lamp. If any irregularities are found, simply go at ‘em with a finer grade paper. The finer grade removes lumber at a much slower rate, allowing better control of what’s happening. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169027247-KO82O2FMDKO99HM7V1M2/2strattute79.jpg SSB Part1 Now a finish sanding of the whole body is in order. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169027522-JTOBBP8HMB9EUCJ624WM/2strattute80.jpg SSB Part1 Check it closely in the sunlight, you may find where a piece of wood may have been on the work table and left a calling card. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169027598-BOO158OYBFSNW5ZPUX8U/2strattute81.jpg SSB Part1 It happens. So out with the trusty Iron and a wet paper towel. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169027848-3ZD6CLEPQFRF5MAUE0LX/2strattute82.jpg SSB Part1 A quick touch with 320 grit, and it’s gone. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169028148-ZO8AAJGJ735H3NHADVT3/2strattute83.jpg SSB Part1 it’s time for the finish sanding. Before I do so, I “iron” the whole body. This causes any funky grain to raise, and much of the sand paper scores to raise, making sanding easier. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169028166-3OGSOPJEO19PHRQYDTQK/2strattute84.jpg SSB Part1 Now start sanding. I usually go at it with 220, then finish with 320. But watch closely, you want to be sure to remove any “machine” marks such as the panel sander’s footprints. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374169028392-Q75W3W8KEGH8WYGW6YHN/2strattute85.jpg SSB Part1 Once you’re sure it’s all sanded, check in the sunlight again, and again, particularly if you’re doing a transparent finish. If not you could have squirted sealer a long time ago. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1374247027722-4EQEG892TNPQKBY8SV6K/1continue.jpg SSB Part1 To continue to Part 2 Color and Lacquer Choose: Slide show viewing or Single Page https://www.ronkirn.com/sitka-part-1 daily 0.75 2020-04-17 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013129125-5DDYA6V0A3VV3SUM1IDR/Spruce1.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body I begin with Sitka Spruce lumber cut to the appropriate length. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013129177-N6PB9A0PNO5JFHURPYWS/Spruce2.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body And check the growth rings. Note that I have marked the angle of the rings where the two pieces will be joined. I want to joint the lumber at the same angle. This dramatically reduces the appearance of the joint as seen in the end grain. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013129298-7RVT1HZIPB0VS35ZE329/Spruce3.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body I adjust the guide on the jointer to approximately the same angle as the growth rings in the Spruce, then joint both pieces. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586742255721-F8X3VJGGMOYU7FWDGKHE/Spruce5.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body A good coat of glue and good clamping technique is the simple way to a quality blank, and/or joint. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013129647-FEKCBZJBC5TH6QER5G0T/Spruce6.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Since the edges are jointed at an angle, I cannot simply clamp them as per normal because the wet glue acts as a great lubricant and the pieces will slip apart, so additional support is required to keep everything planar until the glue dries. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013129797-RTBU4SYRR3JU62RXLTBP/Spruce7.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Regarding glue, recently one of the wood working magazines did a test of the various glues available to wood workers today. The winner, hands down, was good 'ol yellow wood worker's glue, beating Gorilla Glue (polyurethane), Epoxy, CA, Formaldehyde resin, you name it, on all counts, the yeller stuff won. With the one exception of very resinous lumber like Cocobolo, for those the Poly based glues were best. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586742277851-NGAV4TLYONI3E5Z6ZUPO/Spruce8.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Now, let 'em dry. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013129514-WCQGGG56E4PBLGW5V8L0/Spruce4.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Here is the finished blank. You can see, or not see as the case may be, the joint. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013129957-K8J20UITKNUY60JRQAGR/Spruce9.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body So I have this nice 2 inch thick piece of spruce, with a Strat body lurking somewhere inside. I guess I better get to removing what doesn’t look like a Strat. I took my trusty template... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013130177-LIP03DDYOSR021OW7YRK/Spruce10.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body ...and drew the outline. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013130252-JCGBPENB77ITFOX36KE4/Spruce11.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Then I waddled over to the band saw, and band sawed it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013130468-OOWFAULVAM2VFLYW4EKG/Spruce12.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body And this is what happens. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013130553-J9DAQ08C3JQ8A9KBKIXO/Spruce13.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Now, 2 inches is a bit much, so there are several ways to bring it down to the correct thickness. A planer wide enough to take a rough at about 13 ½ inches will do nicely, or a panel sander, my choice in this case. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013130711-UIUBUS9GABSKVJU6VDEO/Spruce14.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body I just keep running it through until 1 ¾" is reached. Now it's time to get serious... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013130826-0LG8CLTHLQBHOMGN7FMP/Spruce15.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Time to mount the template. I use screws, I don’t trust double stick tape to be secure against the pressure that can be applied. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013131017-4MIIQ8N565G0V5EZUM9X/Spruce16.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013131106-X4LFO3VU9CZ998NJIOT8/Spruce17.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Adjust the Router bit, in this case in a router table, so that the bearing is making secure contact with the template and makes a clean cut. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013131252-7POO0SK1Q3MJERN0DTRP/Spruce18.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Routing around the periphery of the body is pretty straight forward. Just proceed slowly at the apex of the 4 large convex curves. Tear-out is a real possibility if you go too fast. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013131325-GZFC07K18YJFIC92ZSVB/Spruce19.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Once we have completed one pass all the way around, we direct attention to the Tremolo cutout. I do this in several passes, the first cut removes about ½ of the ¾ inch depth. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013131439-G0ORU5VMH6SF7QD8J2AO/Spruce20.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body I use a quickie block on the router to set the bit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013131502-Q68PW6CFQNESAW6W2OGM/Spruce21.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body This will remove approx 3/8 inch deep section of the cutout. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013131684-TL8L3DKO6ILXLGLGQ3HU/Spruce22.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body I now set the router depth using a second ¾ inch thick block, this will cut the tremolo cutout to the finish depth of ¾.. This is not critical, and for those detail oriented builders, here’s a tip how to achieve a true vintage appearance, make these routs as sloppy as possible. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013131835-5LB5NSV3K31N1JV2T7UG/Spruce23.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Now I take the final cut. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013131923-14X0CBT4LJ8WP1623857/Spruce24.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body To rout the deep section the tremolo block will reside in, I have a block I made to fit into the spring cavity. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013132049-5AR2GVV76WLZZSQELMVL/Spruce25.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Now, using the previously routed edged within the body as a guide, I set the router to cut about 1 ¼ deep and buzz away. You can see where I had set the bit a little too low and the collet burned the body just a touch. Not to worry, I sand the body down in the panel sander just a touch, so such machining marks will be totally removed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013132428-6A9KIRAYV6F216JHT9VW/Spruce26.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body I now adjust the router depth to cut all but 1/8 inch that will form the lip at the top of the tremolo cutout. Checking this way, I am absolutely sure there will be no unfortunate surprises when I lower the router into the hole. (I have not completed routing around the body yet, I want to complete all operations relative to the first template before I remove it.) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492021404637-6PJCWI6NAA67UKPZWLGT/Spruce27.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body But first check the drill bit to be certain it is at 90 degrees to the table. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013132984-GB95L4ZLEOQ5QSK1NXVT/Spruce28.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Then drill the neck bolt holes. Now remove the template, we’re done with it for this body. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013133239-ME4P2ZVWUHPKYMDR2IWD/Spruce29.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Now it’s time to finish routing the outside of the body. Adjust the router bit so that the bearing will ride along the previously routed part of the body, and completely remove the remaining “flange” of lumber. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013133552-W53R60QDI6BN86I4DU0G/Spruce30.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body After this, the outside shape of the body is complete. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013133686-96QYBQ0GMRC5RA8J9SHD/Spruce31.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Before we begin the top I want to mark the location of the Tremolo rout, I use two small awls to pierce the remaining 1/8th inch leaving 2 small marks on the top. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492021752912-KY4GET49BGXJCZ4QHKXU/Spruce32.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body I also position them just slightly inside the edges so the marks on the top will be completely removed by the routing process. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013133995-GOSQBLB7FAR0IXK55YBN/Spruce33.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body This allows me to position the top template in correct relationship to the rout made on the bottom, despite how the edge lines up. This will keep the neck, pickguard and Tremolo all centered relative to each other. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013134111-V2AK3CRMFJR6XHIQHOWG/Spruce34.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body So now I attach, clamp in this case, the top template checking the periphery to be certain it’s in the correct place. Then double checking other “land marks”, like the two marks made with the awls, and the neck pocket relative to the edge of the body. After positioning the template, check the neck pocket to be certain the edges line up… not like this. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013134271-4VHX4CRHOSMPR952AYR5/Spruce35.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body But like this. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492022180089-TAIVZ8PB8OT8GGGLDPXL/Spruce36.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Also check the top tremolo rout position relative to the two marks we made with the awls. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013134533-ALQR12SCCEN9LU00OJD7/Spruce37.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body And check that the neck pocket depth is correct at 3 inches. While the templates typically will match the edges of the routed body, some woods will shrink, expand, or creep around, particularly if you wait an extended period of time between operations. By checking the points mentioned above you can be sure the body’s specs will fall within the “wiggle room” built into the Strat’s dimensions. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013135118-SHMA632GMQLE7B91OIL3/Spruce38.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Just as a habit, I will mark the depth of the neck pocket at this point. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013135208-X95D86GIC5WD3PCRYDBX/Spruce39.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Now, routing the Tremolo top rout is simply a matter of setting the router bit’s depth beyond 1/8 and insuring the bearings contact the template. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013135605-K7HPJW0TN8COJBGF1LWL/Spruce40.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Once that’s done, you can proceed to the electronics/pickup routs. The finished depth should be between 5/8th (vintage) and 3/4 ‘s (more contemporary and allows for more pickup choice). I’m doing ¾ inch. I set the router to cut 3/8ths or ½ the ¾’s. First I plow away the center sections. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013135687-EUC97X6WDIU0NIJ0QSXA/Spruce41.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Then com back and finish cut the edges. I will now set the router to full depth to cut the ¾ inch. The blocks are simply a time saving device, I know the template is ¾ thick, and I want to cut ¾ beyond. So 1 ½ inch is the mark. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013135899-HUFN5SL8ZA9169G86TUT/Spruce42.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body We now have the pickup’s routs to the correct depth. I’ll do the electronics in a later step. Now to the neck pocket. I do this in two cuts too. I set the router to cut approximately ½ (not at all critical) of the depth in the first pass. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013135986-337HXBSCKTEM2OGZRF69/Spruce43.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Then set the depth to the correct depth, 5/8th in this case... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013136057-H868A6DBIKPUWNT4FHDG/Spruce44.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body and remove the remaining lumber. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013136133-H3AKTF0U0H6LM0OVQ2LS/Spruce45.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Then be sure ya haven’t screwed up. ... Now it’s time for the rest of the electronics rout and the Jack hole. The finished depth is 1 ½ inches deep, we are now at ¾, so again I’ll take half out, then the remainder. I do it this way because a top bearing pattern tracing bit of ½ inch diameter has a shaft ¼ inch diameter, and while a shaft of tool steel may seem solid enough, the forces imputed by the router are tremendous. If you try to take the whole 3/4 inch out in one pass, the probability of the shaft breaking and making a mess of your work goes up exponentially. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013136386-FVUBEE2VR8ALL5D4JLTU/Spruce46.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Now, remove the template. Using the existing walls of the electronics rout we will plunge on down. In this shot you can see the small block I made to fit into the Bridge pickup rout to provide a “wall” for the bearing support as I rout in that area. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013137006-DEO1FQU61ARKAUO32791/Spruce47.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Once it is routed half way, I use the edge of the body to set the router bit, no chance of making the fatal mistake of reading 1 ¾ as 1 ½ that way. Rout the remainder, and use the same method on the Jack cavity too. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013137178-Y00QJGPMYFXTEZTJV1WP/Spruce48.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Remove the block from the Pickup rout and we’re done. At this point I will drill a few necessary holes, the ground wire between the cavities... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013137229-7Y5UYCQWFG9IXWPY2USW/Spruce49.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body through to the spring cavity. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013137532-J9SLLVQIWDY44S6DYOXQ/Spruce50.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Now we gotta get the wires from the Jack rout to the electronics. The brass sleeve is to protect the edge of the rout. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013137658-9W4CZN7KVN5KLJP38320/Spruce51.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body On contemporary bodies, a hole is cut inside the Jack rout to allow a bit more relief for the jack’s spring contact. Without this, getting everything in correctly can be a challenge. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013137819-UP0J4AQU0ULPFKTF4AU0/Spruce52.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Now, if while drilling from the Jack rout to the electronics rout, you dented, pressed, mashed, squshed, etc, etc, the lumber, here’s an old trick. Put a few drops of water on it, press a paper towel on it, take a hot iron, and that forces steam into the first few fractions of an inch of the surface, causing the wood fibers to expand, forcing the ding back up and out. Then sand and it’s gone. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013137954-BWLRO3XXNSSM1IALSVZI/Spruce53.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body At this point it’s complete except for the contours and final sanding. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013138161-GIU9HBN3YD6UKOHEN6J7/Spruce54.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body At this point, I want to be certain, that everything aligns correctly. This is one area many neglect. Crooked things give a very “home made” appearance. Just to be sure, I set a neck in the pocket and take a straight edge and extend the to the tremolo cutout. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013138177-HU5Z5TWTOWVLWN4FJ9LM/Spruce55.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Then place the loaded pickguard and a Tremolo, and see where everything falls, if all is good, let’s get ‘er done. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013138754-KE16O0HX08KNLBS4GH0G/Spruce56.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body So now, we’re good to go, so back to the panel sander to take a few thousandths off the top and bottom to clean everything up. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013138899-VSXJ3ITXH4J9BPB2S1A9/Spruce57.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Remember the router collet being too low and burning around the Back Tremolo rout? It’s gone now. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013139020-IQ0GDSS3VK7SBTDM81T4/Spruce58.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Prior to routing the round-over, I want to sand the outside edge. Sanding? Now? Yep.. I do this now because the bearing on the ½ inch radius round over bit will follow the edge, any irregularities will be reproduced in the rounded over edge, producing even more sanding. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013139280-ZY0CKYCIY1OL577WMD4N/Spruce59.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body I use a spindle sander inside the horns, and a random orbital on the outside edges. That’s this time. I generally grab and use whatever tool is the handiest at the moment,. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013139453-V3VA70GX1BCF8P04WZCC/Spruce60.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body I’ll give the top and bottom a quick touch too. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013139505-EXPP432CZIUTWQGM1H1M/Spruce61.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Now, set the router bit, and check the cut, note here I am testing it on a section that will be removed when the back contour is cut. I set the bit to cut just a few thousandths more, the “fuzz” will be removed during sanding. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013139703-T0YBKHR62WAXZ29DANWS/Spruce62.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body When I do the round over, I do the back side inside the horns first. This is because you must stop a little short of the neck heel, and finish the round over into that section by hand. By making a habit of doing it in this fashion, I automatically think of it, thus preventing routing too far. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013139780-4QUTTHVZ6AVK9STWSRQY/Spruce63.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Once that is done, it’s simply a matter of going around the body. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013140028-Z27395RPTHPR2NVX566M/Spruce64.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body On the top side, I continue routing into the neck pocket, this produces a natural round right up to the edge of the neck pocket. At this point the body is lookin’ pretty good…. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013140105-CTTK936SY810LH3YY3FA/Spruce65.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Take a small block and sand the edges carefully, you don’t want them too thin because you’ll snap ‘em off. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013140182-R51YPGT12UED40AHBOY4/Spruce66.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body The vintage S-type had much more pronounced contours than those seen on many guitars today, the arm contour extended well below the centerline. I draw a diagonal line as a guide, https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013140441-67JSDXTNC6MPHZ2N1M54/Spruce67.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body And while I’m at it I’ll mark the back indicating the back contour. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013140508-3NVIILM2OBT3FCV3GBRN/Spruce68.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Then I mark the approximate depth of the relative cuts.. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013141164-ZE29TSP3O4MJ522ZBU0R/Spruce69.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body So now I have a problem, all this wood is in my way….so with the finesse of a stick of dynamite, I select an appropriate tool.. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013141425-BXF3K2NO1S9TYFIJ60DI/Spruce70.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body So with all that lumber in the way, I use a very aggressive grinder to rough it out, some us a band saw, but whatever method you select is fine. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013141510-MC3N2FIFF953QSM1H0KP/Spruce71.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body I simply remove the lumber to approximately the depth I’m looking for. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013141708-SFF7W343CVY22OXEISTN/Spruce72.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body One thing to note, I have seen many done where the contour is way too flat, it should have a nice round contour, on one axis, it is NOT a compound curve. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013141785-B04B0DWTHTUQXQP1MJA7/Spruce73.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Once it is about where it need to be… there are several ways to do this, the most accessible tool would be a 6 inch wide piece of flat material with some coarse sandpaper glued to it. Using this you can remove massive amounts of wood quickly. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013142044-YF385N8FTQ6FKT0SYI29/Spruce74.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Using the block, continue sanding until the contour looks pretty flat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013142190-G4OWNI3X3B3LN6GUGDNX/Spruce75.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Mark up the area with a pencil, this will allow you to see any low areas. Stopping before getting it all consistent will result in a very poor finish. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013142255-YFRUKM2J7NRR2UECS40L/Spruce76.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Now continue sanding with the flat block, observing the pencil marks. Continue until they are gone. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013142355-3UFQL6NT0X0ICT3G0N1Y/Spruce77.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Once they are gone, finish sand with your sander of choice, to about 150 grit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013142418-ILVRIJRESW7K6GIB29XE/Spruce78.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Now, I get “green” using all natural resources, I step outside and allow the sunlight to fall across the contour, the shadows will reveal any irregularities, If any are seen, resume using the flat sander until you have s smooth consistent roll. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013142494-I23LS456P3SVQDRAINQ4/Spruce79.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013142555-9LL7UGOK1T274FUU71MP/Spruce80.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013142644-M3HXC7I6U78O0T0X16H8/Spruce81.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Now, we have to round over the edge. I mark a reference line that is consistent with where the round over done with the router, flows into the top. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013142708-AIRA9WJ6I8FUETLILLJF/Spruce82.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body I then mark a second line about ½ the distance to the edge and repeat on the outside edge. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013142797-B2947NPMAXC5YI3MP49T/Spruce83.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Now using a sanding block I make the first cut keeping within the inside lines, watching to make the cut consistent around the edge. When I get close I will use a finer sand paper to give me better control on the degree of cut. Here I am just about done. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013142875-STGE9T5CNH9SS96R4QN3/Spruce84.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body And here it is pretty much complete. Sure it looks pretty rough at this point. But this is fine for the moment. If you like you can give it the sunlight treatment to address any gross irregularities. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013143047-XBRTSKXW58WRNQ9II7Q6/Spruce85.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Here she is with the sunlight falling over the edge. I will not complete the edge round over until I am doing the finish sanding prior to sealing the lumber. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013143115-F7B71Z8XCZTJALTX4MNS/Spruce86.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body On to the back contour. I marked the rough location when I was marking the top contour, again, for those looking for precision in getting this exactly right, there was no “exactly right”. It was a hand process so it was pretty much up to the shaper as he removed wood. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013143210-6QE78QKAXTOENY2U80EU/Spruce87.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Using pretty much the same method as I did on the top, I use the grinder to coarsely remove the wood down to the approximate depth. I stand there and hold the grinder firm with my elbows anchored in my sides, and rotate from the waist; this makes it much easier to keep the radius consistent. Hey first timers, practice on scrap wood a few times first. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013143309-OGYPERKSCE5HHM6XCYMP/Spruce88.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Once it’s roughed in, take a curved block, I made mine from a piece of 2x4, glue a course grit sandpaper to it, and begin sanding away…when you get close, do the pencil thing again to give you a visual reference, change to a finer grit and continue ‘till it passes the sunlight test. The mistake many make on cutting this contour, as well as the top contour, is making them compound curves, they were not. In the sunlight shot above you can see the curve is only radiused on one axis. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013143410-U8NJ9G7O91PJL898RLCA/Spruce89.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body This is a relatively labor intensive method, so if you have access to a good oscillating spindle sander, you can make ya one of these racks to hold the body in position. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013143488-OYEE3RU4THRASJ29B3RA/Spruce90.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body With the “jig” to hold the body I can move it against the spindle preserving the correct angle and keeping the floor of the contour flat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013143740-KNT2ZBR0J2LBHS88PWH2/Spruce91.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body I just continue until I have the full deep contour seen in the 50’s and 60’s. The sunlight will tell ya when to stop. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013143802-4N1I0QJKSXJMDA35CKWK/Spruce92.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Now I mark the edge as I did the top to give me an indication as I remove the hard edge and roll it into the round over. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013143888-C0LSY630AX3XNHTKS92Y/Spruce93.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Using the convex sanding block I take the edge down to the first cut, then repeat taking it to the second cut. This illustration shows the 3 primary cuts, followed up with hand sanding to smooth it up into a continuous radius. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013143980-FLD7CD5LS76YM7LVAK12/Spruce94.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Here I have just about finished the roundover on the back side. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013144154-KKHD3JVROK18XWVQSVCD/Spruce95.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Then after a bit of touchup with a finer grade of paper I give it the sunlight test to note any gross irregularities. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013144227-F3I310E4SQLGMOD2IMKO/Spruce96.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Some may be wondering how you get an acceptably consistent radius using a sanding block. It’s really quite easy. By moving the block down the edge it has a natural tendency to follow the previous line, cutting that line into “uncharted” wood. That, along with the sunlight’s shadow helps you know where the irregularities are lurking, so you can remove them. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013144978-40JBNP0MVOPDKAH5H1Z4/Spruce97.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body The last thing to remedy is where we stopped the routing before we got to the neck pocket’s heel. Using anything round with sandpaper attached, just smooth the abrupt edges into a continuous flow into the heel. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013145269-FU54DGCPIHLOSZMZH81O/Spruce98.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body I do one side, and then I do the other. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013145370-EIHAAO4ZMW44DDR37D6S/Spruce99.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Now I will go over the whole body with a bit of sandpaper, about 150 – 200 grit, giving it a good look in the sunlight, checking to ensure all is well and there are no looming foibles. The body is now complete.. all that remains is final sanding with 320, then the sealer, then the finish. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013145499-M31LXYZUSHISH37ORVZI/Spruce100.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013145643-ZDFI8X1JRHE2AA7ZGOTJ/Spruce101.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Prior to paint, I need to check all the hand shaping to be sure the curves and round-overs are smooth and liquid, not hard lines. In this shot you can see the round over is a little irregular, so I’ll go at it with a sanding block and something like 100 grit paper… carefully and gently allowing the natural weight and force of simply pushing the block to follow the lines of the body. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013146004-LCHXO35VIR22BR9WGN3I/Spruce102.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body After a few strokes you can see it is a bit more fluid. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013146062-7KUVKMIRWE2TH6KZQCWY/Spruce103.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body By “eye-ballin” down the edge you can see the round-over produced by the router, and compare it to what you are producing by hand. By rocking back and forth between the two you can see any areas in you work that need addressing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013146175-UDYPFWIXTEUURXLBWIJG/Spruce104.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body And that done by machine… you can see here the hard edge the light is making more apparent, that will be smoothed out momentarily. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013146207-9FBEH8FZ0ZVABUPU8IVR/Spruce105.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body I use the same method on the back. Just checking and sanding out what doesn’t look like a Strat. Some may wonder why I don’t use a scraper cut to the ½” radius to shape the round-overs through the contours. It’s actually easier and faster to do it this way. Further, the scrapers will only track over a section of the body’s edge only as long as the scraper is thick, this introduces entirely too many opportunities for it to hit a piece of grain and dig in. Diggin’ in… not good… not good at all. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013146482-IWFVLRSLMC1VBWD54SF8/Spruce106.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Here again, by checking the area done with the router and instantly comparing the part you are doing you will gain a good indication of what needs to be done. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013146520-B20BLTN05LTPGQOV5DF8/Spruce107.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Once the round-overs are done, go over them with 150 grit sandpaper. Giving particular attention to the edges done with the router, you want to remove the mechanical appearance the machine leaves. Here you can see the hard edge as revealed by the sunlight. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013147285-H3B17B7NX6FACTUAOTN4/Spruce108.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body And after sanding the mechanical appearance will be gone, replaced with a nice smooth flowing curve. I’m spending so much time on the importance of smoothing the body, because it’s this kind of detail that separates the “off the rack” bargain guitar from the upscale piece. You’ll be checking the next time you visit the Guitar Mart, I know hehehe. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013147503-LEZX7NVXANLMZUVY75DA/Spruce109.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Now move up to 220 grit and do a final sand, if you’re doing an opaque or semi transparent finish, and 320 if doing a completely transparent finish. Here you can see things are coming together. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013147590-ZJYVQLA2NJYV0K1EYSTJ/Spruce110.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Check all those sneaky little areas you may wanna skimp on. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013147875-3315XN6QK6EF6GRRPSUK/Spruce111.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Here you can see the round-over in the horns, how smoothly they flow into the top surface. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013147949-NXUSLPZQZX6B1TVZU5HW/Spruce112.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body The sunlight is unmerciful in revealing things that have to be addressed, here are two small “dings” I have no idea what I bumped, but let’s get rid of ‘em. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586795770308-TUGXOWSZWSSJTMZ95PZV/DSC_0025-6.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body To do this we use a highly specialized tool. And uh, DO NOT USE YOUR WIFE’S IRON. Just trust me. Go spend 15 bux and get your own iron. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013148163-5CN3ZQQX9QTKRNDHPKNL/Spruce114.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Put a few drops of secret ding removal liquid on a paper towel. Ok, ok. It’s water. Put it on the ding and iron it, oh yeah, the iron should be hot.. the hottest setting. Leave it there for a few seconds, and then remove, then let the steam dry. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013148626-RTS7XXJ2K83WMJ3GJAKQ/Spruce117.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body The steam is forced into the surface, causing the fibers to expand. This causes the compressed fibers to resume their previous position and often swell beyond. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013148178-Q9366H8624GBGXZPTK0Y/Spruce115.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body The dings now look like this, swollen from the steam and heat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013148539-VC0KBC1XDG6G7FP08RKL/Spruce116.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body While in the sun, go over the whole body, look for anything that may be helped with the steam treatment. Here you see where something, probably a chip of wood was where it didn’t belong and left it’s calling card. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013149487-WW0LR6PDHFI9RVFBV7OL/Spruce118.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body To take care of a larger surface, wet the paper towel and iron away. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013149629-RVSJ162H4IGIFH28U6YG/Spruce119.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Here you can see the swollen fibers and the scrape is gone. This works best for shallow dings where the wood’s surface isn’t broken, the resulting “repair” is absolutely invisible. If the surface is broken, it will still cause the ding to expand up and out, but the broken area will leave a “fracture” mark in the surface. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013149692-LNVLGOUT0LQTHDTWO2AS/Spruce120.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Here you see the dings removed, and ready for sanding. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013150051-VE6NP5VNSJTPVFRKSSXV/Spruce121.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body Check all the surfaces for dings, and to be certain the round areas are smooth, and flowing, take care of anything that needs attention. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013150030-6NHN42VLZ31TQICO2RC1/Spruce122.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013150184-4YRVJ02SY7YEFQ97691C/Spruce123.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body In these shots, you can see how nicely the curves meet the flat areas… we’re about ready to give ‘er a squirt. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1492013150238-H2TDQQKLSGHSUEVNL7IA/Spruce124.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1586915521739-N88TK6BT6E3I79UIZ753/Continue2.jpg Part 1 Shaping the Body To continue to Part 2 Color & Lacquer Choose: Slide show viewing or Single Page https://www.ronkirn.com/old-news daily 0.75 2023-09-06 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/7c81718f-99ff-4b9f-a878-513d2f8052da/DSC_0290.jpeg Old News - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://www.ronkirn.com/new-ready daily 0.75 2023-10-03 https://static1.squarespace.com/static/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/t/51fa9c06e4b0d906af52c3d9/1375378371520/ Shop New - RK Barnbuster https://www.ronkirn.com/new-ready/1330-1 monthly 0.5 2024-05-19 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1716145126686-CDG1F0ESSUP893EDD4EB/DSC_0786.JPG Shop New - #1333 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1716145126687-S79F3000KPZUS5N5P4VV/DSC_0785.JPG Shop New - #1333 https://www.ronkirn.com/new-ready/1330 monthly 0.5 2024-06-01 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1717251362852-K59FEGK43M3NC1I8ZNHZ/DSC_0751.JPG Shop New - #1330 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1717251362852-MP0NJ67XEEQ0ZKBCW5NC/DSC_0750.JPG Shop New - #1330 https://www.ronkirn.com/new-ready/1324-1 monthly 0.5 2024-05-19 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/51e57237e4b0628c21727ab6/1716144955418-51JH7ZKHOS6B5YEXK2X5/1324.JPG Shop New - 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